Harvesting and planting cuttings of grapes in the fall
Contents ✓
RULES FOR AUTUMN PLANTING OF GRAPE CUTTINGS
During the autumn pruning of grapes, cuttings are harvested for propagation. They can be immediately planted in the ground - this will save you from storing planting material all winter. Another benefit of planting in the fall is that shoots appear earlier in the spring than when planting in the spring. I usually work in October (no later than two weeks before a stable cold snap).
HOW TO PREPARE GRAPE CUTTINGS
I choose a mature one-year-old shoot without damage and signs of disease with a diameter of 8-12 mm. Thicker, fattering vines, as practice shows, do not form roots well.
I clean the prepared vine from stepchildren and antennae. I cut cuttings with three or four buds (I make the lower cut oblique at a distance of 1 cm under the last bud, and the upper one is straight, 1-2 cm above the bud).
Then I treat the cuttings with a pink solution of potassium permanganate to prevent diseases and put them in Kornevin's solution for a day.
HOW TO PLANT GRAPE CUTTINGS
I plant cuttings in the school.
I dig a trench the width of a shovel and a depth of one bayonet. It is advisable to put small gravel at the bottom for drainage. From above I pour a bucket of compost or rotted manure (per 1 m of trench), loosen it on a shovel bayonet, cover it with soil and water it.
I plant cuttings at a distance of 15-20 cm from each other with a slope of 45 degrees, to the south. And again I pour water (preferably warm).
I leave a distance of at least 30 cm between rows in shkolka: then it will be convenient to loosen, water and weed.
Above the trench I put arcs about 40 cm high, on which I stretch a plastic film (spunbond can be in several layers) to protect against frost.
With the onset of frost, I open the film slightly and additionally fill the seedlings with dry sawdust or dry foliage with a layer of 15-20 cm.
With the advent of spring, I periodically open the ends of the film for ventilation, and when warm weather sets in and the threat of return frosts passes, I remove it completely (including mulch). In shkolka, seedlings grow until autumn, after which in early October I transplant them to a permanent place.
Reference by topic: Germination of grape cuttings with barley - I will share a secret
AUTUMN PLANTING OF GRAPES - VIDEO
© Author: Nadezhda KARACHUN, biologist, Kurchatov
Below other entries on the topic "Dacha and garden - with their own hands"
- Grapes in the Urals: there are only two conditions for proper cultivation
- Growing grapes in Tatarstan - planting and care, tips and reviews
- Grapes: trellis and tunnel for dry wintering (photo)
- Spraying grapes with stimulants and remedies - when and how with which preparations
- Large grapes and large bunches - how to grow these?
- Grape cuttings in spring - planting and care + grape care calendar for spring
- How to grow grapes - briefly and concisely but on their own experience
- Varieties of grapes for the middle zone of Russia and the Moscow region - description and advice on care
- Cultivation of grapes in Siberia on a new system of viticulture (N. Faddenkov)
- Agate Donskoy, Supaga, Agat Donskoy and other cold-resistant grape varieties - reviews
Subscribe to updates in our groups and share.
Let's be friends!
#
For many years I have been growing grapes, in my opinion, successfully. Therefore, I would like to share some of my secrets with readers.
When planting a seedling of grapes in a permanent place, I put on it a cover made of plastic film, or rather, a bag without a bottom in the form of a clutch. At the bottom, at the roots, I tie with cotton braid so that dew surface roots do not appear.
Digging seedlings, I make sure that the roots do not dry out and keep them from the wind and the sun.
I sort plants: I plant the first and second grades in a permanent place, the third - for growing in the school, I discard the rest.
I consider the seedling of the first grade to be the one that has a root with four layers and a vine up to 35 cm long, of which 20 cm is well matured. A seedling of the second grade has three rod layers. The length of the most developed shoot is 20 cm, half of the mature one.
I tie all the plants for spring planting in bunches and store them in the cellar in wet sand in the winter, covering their roots and several buds.