PREPARATION OF THE FRUIT GARDEN FOR THE COLD (URAL)
Successful wintering of the orchard is one of the main conditions for productivity. And our task is to help plants in this. On our site, we begin to do this from September.
Let me tell you some important tricks.
In early September, we introduce phosphate fertilizers (it is advisable to use double superphosphate or diammonium phosphate) and potash fertilizers into the trunk circle for digging. Additionally, for this purpose, we use wood ash, which contains almost all microelements (2 tablespoons of ash per bucket of water). Thanks to this procedure, wood matures better in plants, and winter hardiness increases.
At the end of the month after harvesting the fruits, we spray the crowns with a systemic fungicide. Last year, for the first time, the Keeper drug with a long-term preventive and pronounced therapeutic effect was used to protect fruit crops - the effect was liked.
In early October, be sure to remove the leaves under the fruit trees. After pre-treatment with a solution of urea (700 g per 10 liters of water), put them in compost. And the carrion of apple trees, a hotbed of infection, is buried deep in the soil outside the site.
We examine the boles: growths, dead bark, cracks in which pests like to winter, we clean it to healthy wood and process it with a solution of copper sulfate (10 g per 1 liter of water).
We cut trees from dry, broken and diseased branches.
At the end of leaf fall, we spray the crowns with a solution of iron sulfate (250-300 g per 10 liters of water). If the plants were very sick, we use a solution of urea (500-700 g per 10 liters of water).
The penultimate stage is whitewashing. We prepare it ourselves.
In a bucket of natural lime mortar by eye, add clay, cow dung or humus, wood ash and 1 tbsp. birch tar. We dilute it all to the state of a liquid slurry. We coat the trunk of the tree with the finished balm and, if possible, grab the branches.
Such whitewash contains a large number of various bioactive substances, nourishes the plant, allows air to pass through, protects the bark from frost and drying wind. And the smell of birch tar repels rodents.
Before a steady cold snap, we tie the trunks of fruit trees with spruce or fir spruce branches with needles down, and we mulch the tree trunks with humus.
IMPORTANT WORK WITH HELL IN THE COTTAGE AND GARDEN IN SEPTEMBER - ADVICE AND FEEDBACK
MAIN WORKS IN THE GARDEN AND GARDEN IN SEPTEMBER - ADVICE OF K.S.KH SCIENCES
And so another summer has flown by. It was not so sultry as we were promised ... Outside the window is September, which means that there is a lot of work in the garden and garden.
SEPTEMBER IN THE GARDEN
The temperature drops, so you can start planting green crops. It is clear that only those that will give the crop the fastest, the most early-ripening hybrids and varieties, can be sown, and for greater reliability, install arcs on the beds in order to quickly cover them with a film in which case.
What can you sow in September?
Of course lettuce, it only needs thirty days and you can harvest.
The second most important is the radish. If you are not tired of it yet, then feel free to sow, but do not forget to thin out the seedlings later, leaving one sprout for every four centimeters of soil.
Mustard leaf - a tasty and healthy vegetable that also heals the soil - can definitely be sown. In addition, mustard does not require frequent watering and thinning, and before harvesting (and it will take place when the foliage grows ten centimeters), wait no more than a couple of weeks.
And what about kale? Of course, it can be sown, it grows faster than lettuce,
has no bitterness, and its productivity is many times higher. It is eaten by slugs, so it is necessary to periodically visit the crops, lay out the boards on the site and look under them, exterminating the slugs.
Well, where without watercress? It is tasty and surprisingly healthy, but it will only take a couple of weeks to harvest.
In addition to crops, empty beds must be put in order, dug up, generously filled with humus, adding a couple of buckets per square meter, and left alone until spring, if there is nothing more to sow them and there is free space.
SEPTEMBER IN THE GARDEN
Now we need to actively harvest pears, because when they fall from a tree, they simply break into a cake, and wasps actively eat them.
Don't forget the apple trees too. Now there is an active time for harvesting, the branches are loaded with crops and, if you do not put props, they can break. Take ordinary horns and put them under the branches, but after harvesting the horns can be removed.
Collect all the carrion and put it in compost, do not leave it to winter on branches and under the crown, there can be both diseases and pests that, after wintering, attack your plants in early spring.
Pay attention to grapes. Now you can wait with watering, otherwise the ripening berries may crack. If gray rot or oidium has attacked, then use the biological preparation "Fitosporin". Well, if pests attacked, then treat with Fitoverm, it is also biological, but already an insecticide.
Pay attention to raspberries with blackberries. At the first, you need to remove all the shoots that have already yielded the crop. If it is ordinary, then only a part of the shoots will have to be cut out, and if it is remontant, then you need to wait until the end of the month, when the last berries ripen, and cut out all the shoots without exception.
From the blackberry, you need to cut out part of the shoots on which the fruits were, after which the lashes can be removed from the support and laid on the ground, let them get used to this position, because they will soon need to be covered for the winter.
And, finally, strawberries. It can now be fertilized with potassium monophosphate, you don’t need much, dissolve 35 g in a bucket of water and pour it, spending one liter per square meter. Such top dressing will help the plants better prepare for the winter, and this will have an extremely positive effect on the next year's harvest.
September is a great month for planting trees and shrubs on the plot, because there is still at least a warm month ahead, and the plants will prepare well for the long winter.
WORKS IN THE FIRST HALF OF SEPTEMBER
Start collecting autumn and winter varieties of apples and pears and store them.
In the first decade of the month, propagate red and black currants with lignified cuttings.
Remove trapping belts from tree boles and burn them.
GETTING STARTED LANDING
In September, they start planting seedlings. In the first half of the month, gooseberries and currants are rooted. These are unpretentious crops, but a good harvest can only be obtained in illuminated fertile areas. 40-60 buckets of humus or compost, 1-2 g of superphosphate, 250 g of potassium sulfate, 300 cup of wood ash, 50 cup of fluffy lime are added to the planting pit (1 × 1). Fresh manure and nitrogen fertilizers are not used to prevent root burns. Before planting, seedlings need preparation. The roots are dipped for 5-6 hours in water or a solution of "Heteroauxin" or "Epin". Cut off damaged and diseased roots and shoots. When planting, seedlings are buried to the level at which they grew in the nursery.
In mid-September, raspberries, mountain ash, honeysuckle are planted. When planting raspberries, it should be remembered that the root neck should be at the level of the soil - its deepening is unacceptable.
Remove mid-late and late potato varieties.
Sow areas freed from early vegetable crops and potatoes with winter rye.
Treat the wooden parts of ground-based greenhouses with a 5% solution of copper or iron sulphate or bleach - 50 g per 1 liter of water.
DISINFECT THE SOIL
Infected soil in the greenhouse must be replaced with healthy soil. However, this requires significant costs and labor. It is cheaper and easier to bring the contaminated soil itself to a healthy state and use it again. There are several ways to disinfect the soil.
With the biological method of disinfection, the soil is taken out of greenhouses and hotbeds, stacked, layered with fresh manure, and watered with slurry. To prevent weeds from growing in the stack, spraying with a solution of lime is carried out. After 2-3 years, the soil becomes healthy.
The contaminated soil mixture can be disinfected in layers with dry bleach (200 g per 1 sq. M of earth with a layer of 20 cm). Then put it in a stack for freezing, shovel it in the summer and use it again in a year or two.
To disinfect the soil, you can also use its heating on metal baking sheets in ovens or on a stovetop. The soil is placed on a baking sheet with a layer of 15 cm and placed in the oven for 45 minutes at 120 degrees, then removed, mixed and processed again in the same mode. After cooling, the soil is stored in clean containers for further use - mainly for growing seedlings.
Divide and plant peonies.
Plant small-bulb crops and daffodils.
Land on a pre-prepared place clematis.
In flower beds, cut stems with faded flowers or inflorescences to the base, remove dead leaves, weed weeds and loosen the soil around perennials wintering in open ground.
Plant cuttings of ornamental shrubs and vines.
WORK CALENDAR IN SEPTEMBER FROM AN AGRONOMIST
The trunks of fruit trees are bleached, having previously processed them, removing lichens and flaky bark.
Trunk circles loosen, introduce organic matter and mulch, heal hollows and trunks of fruit trees, collect plant debris and destroy all carrion in the garden.
There comes a favorable period for planting seedlings of fruit trees in prepared planting pits. If it is not possible to plant seedlings immediately in a permanent place, then you can dig the plants into a trench, and plant them in the spring.
In the first decade of September, the planting of strawberries is completed. On young and fruiting plantings, all mustaches are removed from the plants.
For currants and gooseberries, add 6-10 kg of compost or 45-60 g of simple superphosphate and 15-20 g of potassium salt for each square meter of tree trunk circle. The soil is dug up at the base of the bush to a depth of 5-8 cm.
On raspberries, trimming of fruit-bearing and damaged shoots is completed. The bushes are fed: per 10 liters of water take 40 g of simple superphosphate and 50 g of potassium salt.
Before the onset of frost, beets must be harvested. Carrots and cabbage are removed last.
Prepare for winter forcing sorrel, rhubarb, parsley, celery, endive lettuce, asparagus, perennial onions - batun, slug, chives. Plants are dug out of the soil, leaves are cut off, placed in boxes and covered with soil.
Tulip and daffodil bulbs are planted. At the same time, you can plant peony rhizomes.
Dahlias are planted to a height of 15-17 cm, and faded flowers are removed from gladioli. Divide and replant aconites, bluebells, daylilies (varieties that bloom in mid-summer).
Roses are hilled to a height of 15-20 cm to protect the lower part of the shoots from frost. Cut off the shoots.
GARDEN PREPARATION FOR WINTER - VIDEO
© Author: Oleg MATANIN, Chusovoy. Photo by the author
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