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SOIL FOR TOMATO SEEDLINGS, PREPARATION OF SEEDS AND TRANSPORTATION OF TOMATOES

Our permanent respected author has developed her own - a long-term method of sowing and planting. Let's get acquainted.

Of course, a lot has changed over the years - the composition of the soil, containers, lighting, conditions, and even seeds. But I am sure that my method will definitely interest one of the readers. Let's start in order.

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TOMATO SEEDS AND THEIR PREPARATION

I scrupulously approach the selection of seeds for sowing, given last year's misses. I harvest my own seeds from my best varieties and add something new and interesting to the collection.

I sow seeds both dry and soaked. But in order to avoid diseases of the plant, it is better to process the seeds. Everyone has their own way. I make sure to do a quality test with a saline solution. I dip my seeds in a glass of salt water for 10-15 minutes, I keep the purchased seeds for half an hour. All fallen to the bottom are great for sowing. If more of the purchased seeds (and there are 5-7 of them in a pack) remain on the surface of the water, I advise you to germinate them in cotton pads. I moisten them with a biological product - a growth stimulator, which will give impetus to the germination of seeds.

The term for sowing tomatoes before planting in the ground is 55-60 days.

GROUND FOR TOMATOES

I prepare the soil in two ways. First: purchased land for nightshade, perlite or vermiculite, or sand (baking powder), coconut substrate (3:1:1). Second: I use my sifted earth.

Tomatoes love neutral loose soil. In no case should humus, ash and any other organic matter be added at the initial stage!

Later, when picking or transshipping seedlings, I add organic matter to the same prepared soil - 10% for each pick or transshipment.

I take containers for sowing up to 10 cm high, if without picking, and with picking - up to 6 cm. When sowing, I use light plastic containers with a lid. At the bottom I pour perlite or vermiculite with a layer of 1 cm - this is drainage. From above I pour the prepared soil with a layer of about 5 cm, lightly tamp and spray with a biofungicide solution according to the instructions.

Then I make rows every 3 cm, tamping them a little, and sow the seeds every 3-4 cm. I deepen them by 0,5 cm if they are small, and by 1 cm if they are large.

If you sow small, the seeds will not shed their covers.

I fall asleep rows with the same soil, but add a little perlite to it for looseness and air exchange of the earth. From above I spray again with a biofungicide solution. I close the container with a lid, sign the sowing date and variety. Seeds germinate at a temperature of 24-25°.

Tomatoes are a fast-growing culture, if they germinate within three to four days, wonderful. If more than seven days, it is better to delete.

When loops appear, I remove the lid and illuminate the plants around the clock with a phytolamp for five to seven days, and lower the temperature to 17-18 °. Further - dosvetka 12-14 hours at a temperature of 20-22 °.

I dive seedlings in the phase of three leaves - this is the best option, as well as during transshipment. Water for irrigation should be pleasant to the hands.

In no case do not overmoisten the earth - a black leg may appear or increased growth will begin.

From experience: I water once a week if the leaves droop. I feed seedlings two weeks after picking (transshipment) with fertilizer for seedlings.

TOMATO TRANSPORT METHOD

I call it "half a glass". For transshipment and growth of seedlings, I take disposable cups with a capacity of 100, 200 and 500 ml. I use two for each plant: I cut one along the entire length and insert it into the second cup (see photo). Next, I take out the bottom cup,

it falls apart into two halves, and the root system is not disturbed. I transfer a seedling with three leaves into it, add soil already with organic matter, and after two or three weeks the transfer is already into 200-gram cups and so on. I use this design for next season.

Tomatoes are voracious plants, and organic supplements only benefit them. I plant them both in the greenhouse and in the open ground. I have been preparing the beds since autumn: organic matter plus chicken feathers and eggshells, sowed with white mustard. In the spring, when planting in the ground, I add potash-phosphorus fertilizers or sifted ash.

Further care, like everyone else, judging by the letters of our readers. But if my method was a success, judge by the photo.

All health and good luck!

Reference by topic: The difference in picking, transshipment and transplanting seedlings