Ways to grow strawberries for beginners
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DIFFERENT WAYS OF GROWING STRAWBERRY. NOTE TO A BEGINNER
Growing strawberries on their plots, gardeners come to their own conclusions and make up their own technology that works on their plots. It is more difficult for a beginner and at first he always uses the advice of more experienced gardeners. It is them that we propose to study and apply on our own site.
Method 1 from N. Kovyazina from the Moscow region: “The idea was to plant strawberry bio-beds. The most important thing is to destroy as many pathogens as possible. To do this, I covered the prepared ridges at the end of June with a transparent film and left it for 5 days. The sun was hot, the soil under the film was very warm, which should have helped to destroy all pests and pathogens, as well as weed seeds.
I applied humus to the beds, which had previously been treated with an EM preparation for a year. So I wanted to maximize fertility and improve the soil. In addition, she introduced a biofungicide based on Trichoderma.
Ready-made ridges were watered with a fresh solution of the EM preparation throughout the season, as soon as the earth dried up. Removed weeds.
In September, I once again applied a preparation based on Trichoderma and left the ridges to winter.
In the spring, I introduced potassium sulfate into the soil and planted the varieties Bereginya, Elkat, Marmelada. The aisles were mulched with straw.
For irrigation, I prepared a solution of humates. I treated it with a growth bioregulator, thanks to which there were many peduncles and fruits in the first year. Watered abundantly during flowering.
After harvesting, she cut off the leaves, raked the straw between the rows and set it on fire. The fire touched a little and landing, but not
damaged them. But, as I believe, disinfected them. A week later, the bushes began to grow. When 6-8 leaves appeared, it was treated with a growth bioregulator, and in early September it was treated with a preparation with trichoderma.
Strong healthy bushes wintered well. And the next year I continued to apply the described technology. The harvest was compared with what was on ordinary ridges in previous years. It increased by 40%!”
2. A method from A. Arkhangelsky from the Omsk region: “Before laying a new plantation, I prepare the soil. I dig, apply fertilizer for garden strawberries and treat with a preparation based on the Trichoderma fungus. This useful fungus then prevents the development of various diseases in the soil.
I plant seedlings after 2 weeks. I also pre-soak it in a solution of the drug with trichoderma. All according to the instructions. Seedlings must also be disinfected from possible pests (thrips, ticks). To do this, I soak in an insecticide solution (for example, based on karbofos).
I plant according to a 2-line scheme: the distance between the lines is 50 cm, between the plants is also 50 cm, between the rows - 70 cm.
I water after planting. A week later, I water again, and with a solution of biological products for fungal diseases (based on Bacillus subtilis). I use them throughout the season for prevention. I do treatments every 2 weeks.
In the first year after planting, I feed with complex fertilizer for strawberries. Can be replaced with a solution of manure and superphosphate. In mid-July, I apply ammophoska, and at the end of August - only potash-phosphorus fertilizer.
Next spring, I remove debris from plantings, cut dried leaves, weed weeds. When the air temperature rises and stays steadily around 10° during the day, I start processing. The classic is a 3% Bordeaux mixture. It helps to cope with spotting, rot, and other diseases.
After 5-7 days, I carry out the treatment from pests with a drug based on karbofos. A week later - treatment from the tick with acaricide. And after another 5-7 days - a biological product against pests. It turns out that by the time the first berries ripen, there will no longer be poison on the plantings, the harvest will be clean.
Weevils, aphids and thrips are dangerous pests of garden strawberries. I will definitely take precautions. When I notice the first buds, I spray it with this solution: pour 200 g of dry mustard into 3 liters of hot water and leave for 2 days, then pour in 50 ml of 9% vinegar and 20 ml of iodine solution. I bring the volume to 10 liters and spray. It can also be treated with ready-made preparations based on deltamethrin.
I don’t process it during the flowering period, and when the berries are tied, I spray it against gray rot with biological products or prepare such a solution: for 10 liters of water - 20 ml of iodine.
After harvesting, I treat the tick with an effective chemical preparation.
Remontant varieties have to be fed the whole season every 2 weeks. But winter comes early for us, so after September 5-7 I cut off all the flower stalks and immediately feed them with phosphorus-potassium fertilizer.”
See also: Strawberries in an annual crop - my way of growing
3. Method from T. Aleksandrova from Novosibirsk: “I give the first top dressing in early spring, as soon as the snow has melted and the aisles have dried slightly. I am applying a complex mineral fertilizer for strawberries according to the instructions.
After some time, the growth of young leaves begins. Then I cut off all the old, dried and frosted ones and immediately spray with an insecticide from pests.
After 2-3 weeks, I repeat the spraying, but you need to have time 10 days before the start of flowering.
While strawberries bear fruit, I spray only with biological products or folk remedies. And since different varieties bear fruit at different times, I immediately plan plantings: early-ripening, mid-ripening and late varieties - all separately. Then there are no problems with processing.
I noticed that chemical treatments should be carried out as early as possible - immediately after the end of fruiting. So I kill pests and pathogens, and next year the harvest is excellent, the plants feel great, unlike those that have not been treated with fungicide and insecticide in a timely manner.
4. Method from A. Gaiduk from the Komi Republic: “I prepare the beds in advance. I dig up the soil, form ridges 1 m wide and as long as it turns out. I bring 1 ml of ash to 100 m of the bed. A week later - 25 ml of urea, ammophos and potassium sulfate (per 1 m 0 of the bed). Ash together with nitrogen fertilizer gives a reaction, so I divide the application by time. Fertilizers close up with a flat cutter. In the presence of organic matter, I also bring in 5-1 buckets of compost or rotted manure per 1 m XNUMX of the bed.
I cover the ridges with a black film with stabilizing additives (this way the film lasts longer), sprinkling the edges with earth or pressing down with stones. I make cuts in a checkerboard pattern in 3 rows: 40 cm between rows, 35-40 cm between strawberry bushes. I plant seedlings of strawberries in the cuts.
Before planting, planting material is soaked in a solution against strawberry pests based on imidacloprid (confidor).
In the method of growing on film, I find a lot of advantages. No weeding is needed - it saves energy. Moisture is stored in the soil, and so that during the rainy season the water flows into the holes directly to the roots, I lightly press the plantings, that is, they are lower than the level of the film. The berries are clean, healthy, lie on the film during the ripening period. As well as mustaches, which do not take root and are easy to separate and replant, or simply pluck with dry leaves in the fall if not needed.
I fill the aisles with sawdust. By the way, instead of a film, you can use the same sawdust for mulching ridges. But the mustache is easily rooted in them, besides, sawdust absorbs nitrogen, and additional feeding with this element will be needed.
In subsequent years, I spend top dressing with such a solution: 25 ml of urea, ammophos and potassium sulfate per 10 liters of water, consumption - 1 bucket per 2 m of beds.
GROWING STRAWBERRY - PLANTING AND CARE FOR BEGINNERS
STRAWBERRIES - LANDING IN SPRING, MUSTache AND ON MULCH
Usually, gardeners plant strawberries in late August and early September. But it can be safely planted in the spring - then the bushes will go into the winter well grown, large and developed. In a year they will give a record harvest, and also a lot of planting material
Therefore, I try to acquire new varieties in the spring - in order to multiply faster. I bought a couple of mustaches, and the next year it is already a small plantation.
CORRECT FIT IS HALF OF THE SUCCESS
The new plantation will please the harvest for at least 3-4 years, so the soil must be carefully prepared: dig, removing all weed roots, add a lot of compost and half a liter can of wood ash (for each linear meter of the row) to the planting furrows, mixing everything evenly with the soil .
WEED MULCH
Keep the soil between rows clean of weeds. And loose. Many mulch the ridges with straw so that the grass does not break through, but I have nowhere to get it from. Therefore, I add weeds weeded out in the garden as mulch. Judging by the good harvest of strawberries, they work no worse than straw.
YOU PLANT MORE, YOU GET MORE
If you want to get the first big harvest of berries, plant plants twice as often. Later, having removed this crop, do not forget to thin out the plantings (through one plant). Otherwise, subsequent harvests will be with small berries.
CHEAP AND AN ANGRY
I fertilize the beds with strawberries in the spring with fermented infusion of chicken manure - 1 kg per 10 liters of water. I will add finely chopped young leaves of nettle and dandelion there. The smell, of course, is still the same, but the result is amazing. And no additional costs.
RIPE BERRIES CONVEYOR
It is important for me that my daughter eat berries as early as possible, in May, and for as long as possible.
Therefore, I try to be smart and plant many different varieties. There are several varieties of single fruiting (early, medium and late). Berries are available almost all summer.
I also "experiment" with varieties of continuous fruiting. Landed last year (spring) Queen Elizabeth, Referent, Evie 2 and Albion.
In spring and summer, I removed all flower stalks (for good rooting and mustache). But I really wanted to pamper the baby with berries in the fall, so I left the third wave of buds. The berries were sweet and fragrant.
HOW YOU DROP, SO YOU SHOP
But care and especially watering varieties of continuous fruiting need regular. With poor care, having given the berries two or three times, the bush wastes all its strength, for the next year only a few seedlings can be obtained from it.
You need to choose varieties depending on the region and type of soil. I get it by trial and error. What gives a good harvest to some, does not grow with me. ABOUT
© Author: Valentina Yakushenko
See also: Strawberries in trenches - reviews on the method of cultivation
ENGLISH WAY OF GROWING STRAWBERRY - VIDEO
© Author: Material prepared by L. ROMENSKAYA
Below other entries on the topic "Dacha and garden - with their own hands"
- Strawberries in high beds, in one line and with mulch (Nizhny Novgorod)
- Growing strawberries ... buckets - tips and secrets of care
- Pruning strawberries - do or not?
- Varieties of strawberries of different daylight hours, for harvest and conveyor
- Autumn planting of strawberries
- Growing strawberries from seeds - my secrets and tips (St. Petersburg)
- Small-fruited remontant strawberry: varieties and planting
- Autumn planting of strawberries - agricultural technology and subtleties from an agronomist
- Cultivation of strawberries: double crop
- Planting strawberries in October (late planting) my feedback and result
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Several years ago it happened that when I planted strawberries (garden strawberries) of the Junia Szhides variety with horns, the bushes turned out to be infected with a stem nematode. Now I am an ardent opponent of planting strawberries with horns. I reproduce only with mustaches! I direct all the mustaches from one row into the same row spacing and sprinkle them with soil. In the future, I leave only one rosette for rooting. The rows are located from east to west, so I direct the mustache from each row only to the south - this way they are better lit. By autumn I get quite strong seedlings that manage to lay flower buds. I separate it from the mother bush and transplant it to a new bed next spring. A young plantation gives almost the same yield as a plantation with mature bushes.
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1. Strawberries bloom well, and berries form on the lower tier. The upper ones are tied, but remain very small and dry out. I feed and water in a timely manner, what is wrong with my strawberries?
2. In the greenhouse, when planting seedlings, I put rotted compost in the hole, and in the fall, when I dig out the roots, I find white mold on them. Should we fight it, and how? Help advice.
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Previously, every spring they planted strawberries on their plot. But for some reason, it did not take root well, and if it took root, then the harvest gave a poor one. It was like this for several years in a row, until one day the neighbors, seeing how we were planting seedlings on warm May days, advised us to do it early, without waiting for stable heat. And last year we did just that: we started planting seedlings as soon as the snow melted and the soil thawed, and, of course, the night frosts ended. At this time, there is still enough moisture in the soil.
It turned out that strawberries love coolness, and we were even advised to buy seedlings not ordinary, but the so-called frigo - that is, the one that was dug out in late autumn and stored all winter at a low temperature. And when planting, you need to make sure that the seedlings are in the shade. And it is best to plant strawberries in cloudy weather or in the evening, so that the plants can acclimatize overnight.
After we met all these "cool" requirements, the strawberries took root really well and gave an excellent harvest.
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For a very long time my husband and I dreamed of our dacha and garden.
And when the dream finally came true (their own plot appeared), the first thing they rushed to plant was strawberries, the favorite berry of the whole family, especially children. Without hesitation, they dug up the old beds where the former owners planted potatoes, fertilized as expected, and in general everything seemed to be done according to the rules, but all the seedlings died. We eventually figured out what our mistake was. It turns out that in no case should strawberries be planted in the place where potatoes and tomatoes used to grow. But after legumes, lettuce, dill, on the contrary, strawberries should be planted. Another tip: plants older than four years old should be destroyed, anyway they will not bring a decent harvest. Other crops should be planted in this place over the next six years.
Strawberries are very susceptible to air temperature: during frosts, each successive degree below zero reduces the yield by 10%.