PREPARATION OF ROSES FOR FROST AND WINTER
Should roses be spudded before winter? There is conflicting information on the web.
Nuria Targetdinova, Yelabuga
- Hilling is first of all necessary to protect the roots and skeletal branches from frost. This will allow the rose to grow back, even if the entire aerial part dies. It happened to me once. It got warmer early in the spring, there was little snow that winter, and I removed all the insulation materials from the frame. And then unexpectedly at night a severe frost hit, and all the shoots above the hilled ones died. Even though they were already budding. I had to cut the roses almost to the "stumps", but they all survived and grew back. True, they bloomed much later than usual.
At the same time, any grower will tell cases when the hilled roses swelled, the stems cracked. And here there are several criteria by which you can determine whether hilling will bring benefits or harm specifically in your conditions.
1. The root system of self-rooted roses grown from cuttings is less frost-resistant. Therefore, it is better to hill them, especially in the first three years.
2. If the grafted roses have a grafting site located at ground level or higher, it is also better to hill the plant.
Z. But with a well-buried grafting, hilling is not necessary: even if the top freezes, there are renewal buds underground. And the roots of wild rose are not afraid of frost.
The method does not work in areas with close groundwater.
The material used for hilling must be dry, but also loose and breathable. Otherwise, the procedure may be harmful.
Roses are covered with dry earth, peat, dry rotted compost, spruce litter, shavings, dry leaves (preferably oak). Shelter work is carried out at the same time: they spud with a dry substrate and immediately close it from rain and snow. If the substrate is damp, then under cover it should dry out.
Galina ILYUSHINA, plant collector, St. Petersburg
Reference by topic: How to properly prepare roses for winter: personal experience and expert reviews
Roses planted with deepening. The soil in the garden is loamy. In the 3rd year, in many bushes, the graft turned out to be above ground level (apparently, the clay pushed out). In the fall, poured light soil.
Irina Filimonova, Sharkovshchina
- Now many people advise that when growing in cold regions, the grafting site should be open. At least for the summer period, so that it warms up with the sun, and on heavy soils and in damp places it remains dry and does not rot. And here we can recall standard roses, because they have a graft generally 1 m above the ground. Therefore, in specific conditions, I advise you to try a couple of roses to leave for the winter without a spud and compare the results. In my garden, this works perfectly: they not only hibernate confidently, having time to ripen by autumn, but also basal shoots are issued earlier and in greater numbers.
Is it necessary to deepen the grafting site for autumn planting seedlings? Will frost damage it?
Svetlana Chashnikova, Pskov region
I have been planting my roses for more than one year in autumn and spring without deepening. Moreover, all the old, long-planted bushes had to be raised. You can fall asleep flush with the ground so that it only covers a little, and in the spring rake the soil. Observe, compare and decide which of the options is acceptable in your conditions.
Please help me identify the type of rose in order to understand how to properly prune it for the winter. It is about 2 m high, with thick, stiff shoots. After looking on the Internet, I assume that mine refers to Cordes roses.
Irina Katyavina, Roslavl
“Your beauty looks like Antike 89 from Cordes. She has the 5th frost resistance zone. It is considered climbing, but usually the habitus is similar to a bush, its hard shoots are very difficult to bend.
Cut the plant to the height of the shelter that you can provide this rose, and so that the material of the "house" does not touch the branches. Or you can cut only the unripe shoots, try to gradually bend the rest to the size of the shelter before frost, and carry out sanitary pruning in the spring.
Lyudmila BARANOVA, plant collector, Nizhny Novgorod
When and how should standard roses be insulated?
Marina Klimovich, Luban
- I advise you to take care of the safe wintering of standard roses already in early October. All work will require several approaches.
1. First of all, we untie the trunk from the support. We stick two metal pins on the side on which we plan to put a rose. We tilt the trunk by 45 degrees, to the pins and fix it in this position for about two weeks. 2 The next step is the final installation. We wrap the stem with a special bandage or cutting tapes from covering material. The crown must first be cut according to the rules for the group of roses that is grafted onto the trunk, and cleared of leaves. Then we wrap it with two layers of lutrasil or other non-woven material with a density of 60 microns. We untie the rose from the metal pins (we remove them). The crown cannot be left on the ground, so we put several branches of spruce branches under it.
We cover the base of the trunk with a bucket of earth. Gently bend the rose to the ground, fix the stem and crown with metal arcs. In the place where the trunk is bent, I recommend putting a wooden chock or a flower pot (to avoid a fracture from a snow load).
With the onset of STABLE FROST (below - 5-8 degrees), we cover the entire rose with a double layer of dense non-woven material, press its edges to the ground with the help of bricks and stones. From rain and wet snow we cover with plastic wrap, while the ends must be left open. By the way, don't forget to put mouse poison under cover.
Gennady LITAVRIN, plant collector, Moscow. Photo by Svetlana SAMOILOVA
PREPARE ROSES FOR THE COLD
There are a lot of different flowers in my garden that I like. But most of all I love roses.
Three years ago I planted one hybrid tea rose of a very bright color and two climbing roses - scarlet and delicate colors. I always look forward to summer to enjoy the extraordinary beauty and magical aroma of the queen of flowers.
Of course, in order to achieve lush flowering of roses, they need good care, which consists of timely watering, loosening the soil, applying fertilizers, protecting them from pests and diseases, and covering them for the winter. But believe me, it's worth it.
At the first frost, I prune the hybrid tea rose at a height of 30 cm. For climbing roses, I shorten only the ends of the shoots, since they bloom on the shoots of previous years, and I treat the cuts with garden putty. I spray the bushes and the soil around them with a 3% solution of iron sulfate.
I insulate roses in late October-early November. Before this, I remove broken and diseased branches, dried inflorescences, bushes
spud. Then I bend the branches to the ground and cover them with earth. In winter I add more snow. In severe frosts, I cover it with spruce branches and a non-woven covering material on top.
In the spring, with the onset of warm days, I gradually remove the coverings from the roses. First, for a few hours, slightly shading the plants so that there are no burns, and after two weeks I open them completely.
Climbing roses definitely need support, because they can grow from 3 to 5 m. I put up an arch, and the roses sent out their shoots along it with numerous flowers.
© Author: Svetlana Martynova, Orel (photo by the author)
Reference by topic: The correct preparation of a rose for winter (wintering)
PREPARING ROSES FOR WINTER - VIDEO
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