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HOW TO DESTROY LILYS OR "BAD ADVICE" ON FLORICULTURE

I read a lot of publications on gardening, floriculture and landscape design. And I can’t miss the “tips and secrets” of some gardening enthusiasts, sometimes egregious in terms of agrarian illiteracy. Of course, even professionals are not immune from mistakes.

But why recommend to others a deliberately failed experience?!

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HOW TO DESTROY LILYS

Here, for example, is a material published in one of the floriculture magazines devoted to the cultivation of lilies. “Sometimes I got the impression that people write about growing flowers who have never done it themselves,” the author complains. This is exactly what I felt when I read the article. I will omit some minor inaccuracies, but it is impossible not to mention gross errors.

“The bed should be made high (up to 40 cm), since it is customary to plant large bulbs (except for some white varieties) to a depth of 20 cm.” What are these "some varieties of white"? For example, I have a dozen and a half varieties of white lilies, belonging to both Asian hybrids, and tubular, and LA, and turban-shaped, and oriental. All these plants, according to the classical rules, are planted to a depth of 3 bulb diameters, counting from the bottom, that is, above the top of the planting unit there should be a soil layer two bulbs high. On heavy soils, you can plant a little smaller, on light soils - a little deeper. And indeed, the only white species royal lily (Regale) is completely buried by 3-5 cm, but since this species in the middle lane practically does not hibernate in the open field, even with complex tricks, I will not talk about it here.

Now about a bed 40 cm high. This is to immediately take and kill the bulbs in the very first frosty and snowless winter or even autumn with sudden severe frosts. G rows, and even with loose soil, will freeze immediately. Beds (low) are made only in very damp areas where there is no way to divert water, and you really want to plant lilies. But then they require thorough warming in the fall, when the bulbs go to rest. In addition, lily bulbs are a favorite delicacy of mice, and in loose mounds, rodents make their moves and minks easier than ever.

"... The bed should be ... manured," the author of the material shares his knowledge. No way! Manure for lilies is detrimental, due to the fact that it provokes many rot and bacterial diseases. The wireworm and the larvae of the May beetle love to settle there, and also manure is a collection of weed seeds. Very, very well-rotted manure is poured under the lilies, and fresh manure is brought in a couple of years before planting.

“For lilies, a bed on which onions used to grow is very suitable: the soil on it is always quite nutritious,” another “discovery” of the lily grower. Does he know the golden rule of any gardener: do not plant like after like? Lilies and onions belong to the same family - lilies, and therefore they have the same pests and diseases. And the most dangerous onion fly (hoverfly), stem nematodes, fusarium, gray and other, rot, as well as other hardships await our lilies after placing them on: a bed that was under an onion (and any). And if you need rich soil, isn’t it easier to feed your favorite flowers individually? Moreover, the onion predecessor takes a lot of nutrients from its habitat.

“... You need to grow different types and varieties: Asians bloom first, hybrids bloom a little later, and oriental lilies bloom last.” According to the international classification of lilies, adopted throughout the world (and in Russia, of course, too), “Asian” are also hybrids, like oriental ones, and LA, and LO, and LOO, and all the rest. There are 9 groups in total (the last, 9th, is species lilies, during the pollination of which hybridization occurs).

The author of the material says that he prefers to plant his tubular lilies a separate curtain, "because they are not too high." Allow me! Tubular hybrids are among the tallest in the entire kingdom of lilies, their stems reach at least 1-1,5 m in height. I even dig in reliable pegs to my beauties, saving them from bad weather. It is advisable to plant both tubular and chalmoid (martagons) lilies in separate curtains due to the fact that they prefer slightly alkaline or neutral soil, in contrast to Asian, "Lashka", oriental hybrids that love a slightly acidic environment. Turbans, in addition, feel best in the partial shade of subtrees (as in nature).

Reference by topic: If lilies degenerate - transplant will help

HOW NOT TO TALK ABOUT PEONY

An article in one horticultural publication states that “in the gardens of the middle lane, peonies with pale pink, bright crimson and white large fluffy flowers are most often found.

The flowering period depends on the color of the bud. Whites bloom later." However, anemone-like and Japanese varieties of peonies with one or two rows of petals and even arachnid "spiders" with famously twisted long petals have come into fashion in our gardens for a long time!

"Fluffy" ones are also available, but the color of the flowers is now very diverse, up to almost black and yellow. Only the blue ones haven't been "invented" yet.

The author, perhaps, does not mean varietal peonies, but nameless seedlings that have been growing in grandmother's gardens for decades without care and attention. But the flowering period of any peonies never depends on the color of the bud: there are early blooming and white peonies, and red, and pink, black and yellow - any! Species peonies and some hybrids bloom earlier than all varieties.

And one more annoying "trifle" - about the "sweet smell, which is still dizzy." The peony does not have “its own” aroma, all are borrowed. These garden kings can be scented with lime blossom, rose, violet, etc. or not smell at all, but there are varieties with a very unpleasant smell (I have such an old “fragrant” Shirley Temple variety growing).

Reference by topic: Peonies: the secret to lush bloom

IN THE BED BEFORE PLANTING LILY I ADD THIS! BRIGHT LILY FLOWERS GROW WITH A FIST! What to add under the lilies