COLLAPSIBLE GREENHOUSE OWN HANDS

Heat-loving vegetable crops cannot be protected from spring and autumn cold snaps without shelter. We, in the Tula region, in May and even early June have night frosts up to 5-7 °. But I noticed that it is more comfortable for plants not in stationary greenhouses, but in collapsible film shelters.

MY SHIELD GREENHOUSE IS RELIABLE AND CHEAP.

Reliable, because the film on the walls is in two layers, 40 mm from one another. Between the films there is air, like a double frame. I can’t say what maximum frost the shelter can withstand, but there were frosts of 6 ° twice, and everything went well.

And there are savings. Firstly, the film serves four seasons (in September I put the frames in the barn until spring). Secondly, I save time. The shelter is assembled and disassembled literally in a matter of minutes. When the shelter is dismantled, there is no frame left on the garden bed that would interfere with weeding and watering.

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In early May, I install a shelter (hut) over the plants. If the day is warm, I raise the shields to a vertical position. In this case, the plants have free access to fresh air, sunlight, insects, and at the same time, the shields protect from the wind. In sunny weather, it is much warmer behind them, and more insects flock here. In June, I clean the shelter in the barn. And again I take it out in August, when cold dews fall, and I no longer put it down until the crop is harvested.

THE BASIS OF THE GREENHOUSE SHELTER IS SHIELDING.

I made a frame from wooden slats with a section of 40 × 20 mm (Fig. 1). The width of the frame should be such that the double film (commonly referred to as stocking) can be freely placed over it. If the “stocking” is put on the frame tightly, then the film will quickly tear. The length of the frame is 300 cm, the width is 144, since the width of the film is 150 cm. The lower side of the frame was planed so that the cross section was a semicircle. For

to make the frame rigid, I installed two spacers in the center, and two wooden cubes in the lower corners.

Then I wind the cord along and across the frame (Fig. 2) with a step of 40 cm. It turns out a grid on one and the other side of the frame. I put a film on the frame. The film should be 5-10 cm longer than the frame so that it can be carefully tucked up. After that, I also wind the cord around the frame, and on top of the film, the same mesh is obtained as under the film. As a result, the film loosely put on the frame is between two tightly stretched meshes and the films do not touch each other.

So that the film does not rub off, I nail tin pads at the bottom, and wooden bars in the upper corners. As a sealant around the perimeter of the side walls, I nail or glue foam rubber.

The end wall is made in the same way as the side wall. The triangular frame is rigidly nailed to the wooden base (Fig. 3). With the help of brackets, the side wall will be attached to the pipe and held vertically. The height of the walls is the same.

First, I install one end wall and drive the side pipes into the ground through the holes in the base (Fig. 4). The height of the pipe above the ground should be 2-3 cm more than the width of the side wall. I drive the central pipe through the brackets into the ground so that its upper end rises 2-3 cm above the end wall. Similarly, I install the second end wall. The distance between them should be such that the side wall with tin-covered ends rests on the base.

Rice. 1. Wooden frame: 1 - spacers, 2 - wooden cubes

Rice. 2. Side wall: 1 - tin pads, 2 - wooden blocks, 3 - foam rubber

Rice. 3. End wall:
1 - wooden base, 2 - brackets for the central pipe, 3 - holes in the base for side pipes

When installing the side walls, make sure that the foam rubber nailed around the perimeter ensures that the side walls fit snugly against each other and against the end walls. To keep the side walls closed, I insert a Y-shaped grip into the central pipe. To open the greenhouse, it is enough to pull out this grip, turn the side wall from an inclined position to a vertical position and fix it with a grip-beam on the side pipe.

In order to have free access to the plants, I pull out a grip-bar from the side pipe, that is, I release the wall from one side and the other and remove it. In windy weather, you can remove the wall only from the leeward side.

With the onset of stable warm weather, I remove the side walls into a shelter, and the end walls can be left in place; they do not interfere with the care of plants.

Rice. 5. Shelter for creeping plants
Rice. 4. The shelter is assembled into a "hut": 1 - side pipes, 2 - central pipe. 3 - U-shaped grip 4 - grip-bar on the side pipe

Do you want to have a longer greenhouse, with two or three or more side walls? Then for each joint it is necessary to make additional supports, the same as the frame of the end wall, only with a width of at least 80 mm, since two side walls must rest on them. If the end wall is made low and wide (Fig. 5), then creeping plants (cucumbers, melons, watermelons) can be covered. In this case, it is necessary to pour an earthen roller around the perimeter or make a frame from boards.

I have a heated greenhouse on my property. Its side walls are glass, and the roof is made of the same shields. I take off the roof for the summer, and a wonderful “microclimate” is established behind the glass walls: warm, calm, light, full of bees. It is especially good behind the "fence" for cucumbers, and tomatoes turn red two weeks faster. In order to install shields on the roof, half an hour is enough for me, since the upper part of the shield is inserted under the ridge, and the lower part is attached with an ordinary turntable, like on a gate.

Reference by topic: Greenhouse in the greenhouse with their own hands - MASTER TIPS

ON A NOTE - ANOTHER GREENHOUSE FROM LUTRASILA "WITH POCKETS" WITH YOUR HANDS

Life has become harder, I had to do housework, having a higher technical education, I keep livestock in order to help my two adult daughters and grandson.

In the Altai Territory, the climate does not spoil us, but I grow excellent crops of pepper, eggplant, melon, watermelon, and tomatoes. I plant everything in warm manure beds. Early in the spring, I fold the beds (at the edges 50 cm high, in the middle 20 cm, I trample down the middle) and fall asleep with a layer of earth 15 cm. frame made of non-woven covering material.

I sew a "half bag", as shown in the diagram. Sewn on the edges of the old burlap with pockets in which I put the stones. And lutrasil, without touching the ground, does not tear, and the stones in the pockets of burlap do not allow the shelter to fly off the ridge even on a windy day.

In May and June, any seedling grows well in this greenhouse. In mid-June, I plant part of it in the ground, and leave part on a manure bed, where eggplants and peppers are especially successful. In the fall, I spread the bed around the garden - the manure rots completely. But you need to remember that you have to water such ridges more than usual.

Reference by topic: Portable greenhouse and greenhouse with your own hands - fertility without changing the soil