WHY THE TREES WILL FREEZE EVEN IF THE WINTER IS WARM - THE REASONS

When severe frosts crackle in winter, and there is no snow, the gardener understands that by spring the orchard is unlikely to come out without loss. But trees can suffer in normal and sometimes even mild winters. Cause? Here are just a few of them.

1. ADVERSE CONDITIONS DURING THE VEGETATION

For example, the summer was cold, rainy, photosynthesis was weak, the trees often got sick, were attacked by pests, which led to premature leaf fall, and the plants did not have time to accumulate enough nutrients. As a result, all this caused fruit trees to freeze, even if the winter was not severe.

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What to do?

In a cool “wet” summer, be sure to plan protective treatments with fungicides (for example, Fundazol or the Fito-sporin biological product), as well as insecticides (Aktara or Fitoverm) - 1-2 times a month, strictly following the instructions. The last treatment with pesticides - no later than 20 days before harvest. Spend also a couple of foliar top dressings in spring and in the first half of summer with a solution of complex mineral fertilizer with trace elements.

2. ICE RAIN

Not only that, the ice crust on the shoots often causes various injuries (scratches, tears, crushing of the bark). It also plays the role of a magnifying glass through which the rays of the sun pass and heat the bark - all this ultimately leads to its freezing.

What to do?

You can understand how much the plant has frozen by the color of the bark and wood by making a cut on perennial branches from the lower part of the crown at the end of winter and beginning of spring: the darker the bark on the cut, the more damaged the tree. Depending on the “diagnosis”, you need to plan the care of the plant (or you will have to uproot it).

3. NO AUTUMN CARE

There is a list of mandatory work that at times increases the chances of trees for a successful wintering.

First, feed the garden (in late September-early October), eliminating nitrogen (it can activate growth processes and the plant will not prepare for winter). But phosphorus and potash fertilizers will benefit plants.

Secondly, in October, water-charging watering is required, which will save the roots from freezing.

Thirdly, eradication treatment at the end of leaf fall with urea (600 g per 10 l) in order to significantly reduce the infectious background in the garden. And, fourthly, whitewashing boles and skeletal branches of all trees without exception.

Reference by topic: Garden care during dormancy - how to help trees overwinter