Contents ✓

✓ SNOW SHIELD FROM FROST
✓ JANUARY - FOLK SIGNS FOR THE GARDEN AND GARDEN
✓ WINTER GARDEN SANITATION
✓ CARE OF WINGED ASSISTANTS
✓ SHIELD FOR HARES AND MICE
✓ VEGETABLE GROWERS IN JANUARY
✓ ABOUT FERTILIZATION AND PREDECESSORS
✓ TROUBLE STOCK DOES NOT REPAIR
✓ JANUARY SOWING ON THE WINDOWSILL
✓ VARIETY OR HYBRID. WHAT'S BETTER?
✓ ADVICE FROM THE PRACTITIONER
✓ WHAT WE HAVE - SAVE
✓ GARDEN WORK IN JANUARY - WHAT YOU NEED TO DO - VIDEO TIPS

WORK IN JANUARY IN THE GARDEN, IN THE COTTAGE, TSVENIK AND GARDEN

Frosts are getting stronger every day, the soil in the garden is finally cooling down. The gardener's task is to protect plants from frost, which primarily affects strawberries, raspberries and stone fruit trees: cherries, cherries, plums, cherry plums, etc. But pear and apple trees are not immune from severe frosts, especially if they are grafted low - and medium-sized rootstocks.

Roots freeze most often in trees growing on sandy and pebbly soils. Those who bear fruit abundantly last year, but the harvest was harvested late, also suffer more than others. Such plants need to be given attention in the first place.

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Restore the whitewash on the trunks and skeletal branches of trees, if it was washed away by precipitation. This work is carried out during thaws, when the air temperature is not lower than -5 ° C.

They continue to replenish stocks of mineral fertilizers, ash, organic matter, necessary pesticides to protect the garden from pests and diseases.

Seeds of apple, pear and other plants are laid for stratification, in which this period lasts 80-90 days.

SNOW SHIELD FROM FROST

In January, as in December, the main concern of the gardener is to cover the tree trunks with a snow coat, which will not only save the garden from frost, but also provide the soil with moisture in the spring. Before the onset of severe frosts, the boles and bases of the skeletal branches of young trees are hilled with snow, which is collected away from them: on paths, boundaries and outside the site. Given that the main roots that ensure the vital activity of trees are located more than 1 m beyond the crown projection, snow is not raked from these areas, but, on the contrary, accumulated.

IMPORTANT POINT

In unstable weather, when a thaw is replaced by frost, an ice crust forms on the surface of the snow cover, which does not let in the air needed by the plants wintering under the snow. So that they do not suffocate, the crust is carefully destroyed.

After heavy wet snowfalls, when snow accumulates on trees and shrubs, it is shaken off to prevent branches from breaking.

JANUARY - FOLK SIGNS FOR THE GARDEN AND GARDEN

If January is dry and frosty, the summer will be dry and hot, if with frequent snowfalls and snowstorms, July will be rainy.

On Epiphany (January 19) snow flakes - for the harvest, it's clear - expect crop failure.

In January, a woodpecker knocked on a tree - by early spring.

WINTER GARDEN SANITATION

If mummified fruits still hang on the branches, they must be removed and destroyed, as there are spores of black cancer, fruit rot and other fungal diseases.

On sunny days, when there is no frost on the trees, all the branches are visible, and on their underside you can find oblong orange eggs of the apple sucker. The ringed silkworm lays its bead-like eggs in rings at the ends of thin branches. Hawthorn and golden tail hibernate in dry leaves, tied with cobwebs, which are left hanging on trees. If possible, branches with eggs are cut off, nests are removed and all this is destroyed (burned).

Reference by topic: Sowing flowers for seedlings in January-February

CARE OF WINGED ASSISTANTS

We must not forget about small birds that feed or feed their chicks with insects: tits, nuthatches, pikas, wagtails, pied flycatchers, redstarts, starlings, sparrows and other birds. In winter days, their old houses and nests are repaired. If necessary, new dwellings are built from poorly planed boards or chumps of trees with a rotten or rotten core.

Many of these birds remain wintering in their permanent habitats. They are not particularly afraid of the cold, but they die mainly from hunger, especially on rainy days during thaws, snowfalls, icy conditions, when it is difficult to get food. On such days, it is important to feed them by setting up feeders in the garden and filling them with food that is edible for them: cereals, bread crumbs, unsalted bacon, grain waste, etc.

SHIELD FOR HARES AND MICE

Hares are dangerous pests of a young garden. Mature trees with rough bark do not interest them. They gnaw on young bark, branches up to 7 mm thick and buds. Damage is applied at a height of up to 1 m from the surface of the snow cover. If, due to the snow cover, the strapping turned out to be lower, then it is corrected, the open parts of the crown are additionally tied.

These rodents do not like the smell of rancid lard, which can be rubbed on open parts of trees.

Some gardeners cut strips of felt from natural wool and, having scorched them well, they attach them to trees with wire. Not only hares, but also mice are afraid of this smell.

Felt can be used the next year after additional firing.

To scare away, you can hang black plastic bags that rustle, move and are clearly visible against the background of white snow in the cold and wind.

In January, hunger drives mice out of their burrows in search of food. They can also damage the bark at the bottom of the trunk, which is under the snow. So that the mice do not get to the bark, the snow around the boles is compacted by trampling down with feet or with devices (skating rink, mallet, etc.). This is done after each snowfall, especially during thaws. The snow is also compacted around buried seedlings that did not have time to be planted in the fall.

VEGETABLE GROWERS IN JANUARY

In January, the garden is covered with snow, gardeners do not have many worries, so it's time to think and decide which and in what area to plant or sow vegetables. They study special literature, the experience of experienced vegetable growers, so that new items that deserve attention can be applied on their site.

ABOUT FERTILIZATION AND PREDECESSORS

Gardeners draw up a crop rotation plan well in advance of planting so that each vegetable grown is placed after the best predecessor. This will allow you to get a rich harvest of healthy vegetables. When compiling a crop rotation, it is important to plan plantings so that vegetables of the same family return to their original place no earlier than after 3-4 years.

Cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkin, squash are best planted after onions, garlic, tomatoes, peppers, potatoes, cabbage, parsnips and legumes.

Onions and garlic grow well after pumpkin (cucumbers, zucchini, etc.) and green crops (spinach, lettuce, basil).

Carrots, celery, parsley are planted after beets, garlic, onions, cabbage.

Potatoes work best after root vegetables and cabbage.

Tomatoes, peppers, eggplants feel good after pumpkin and onion plants.

For legumes (beans, peas, beans, soybeans, chickpeas, lentils), all vegetable fruit and root crops are suitable as predecessors.

Reference by topic: What to sow in January-February - the main mistakes

TROUBLE STOCK DOES NOT REPAIR

Winter is the time to replenish stocks of mineral macro- and microfertilizers, growth stimulants and regulators, means of protection against pests and diseases, missing inventory.

They collect the ashes. This most valuable fertilizer is stored in metal containers in a dry and protected from atmospheric precipitation place. Stock up on seedlings.

JANUARY SOWING ON THE WINDOWSILL

In January, many continue to plant parsley, onion, celery on greens, sow lettuce, dill. At the end of the month, individual hasty gardeners start sowing seedlings of root celery, garden strawberries, late-ripening varieties of tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, leeks and other crops. At this time, due to the short day and lack of sunlight, inhibition of plant growth and development is often observed. They will not interfere with additional illumination with fluorescent and LED lamps for 6-8 hours a day.

VARIETY OR HYBRID. WHAT'S BETTER?

Experienced gardeners purchase seeds of zoned varieties and hybrids. Their value is that, having passed three-year tests at variety testing stations and plots in terms of yield, ripening time, resistance to pests and diseases, nutrient content and other indicators, they turned out to be the best for the area.

What to sow in January Only tested in practice.

ADVICE FROM THE PRACTITIONER

Before buying seeds, carefully study their varietal characteristics and choose those that are more resistant to various diseases. Pay attention to maturity dates. To get a full harvest, in regions with a short growing season, it is better to purchase seeds of varieties from very early to medium ripening.

When buying seeds, you need to pay attention to the conditions in which the selected variety can grow. Intended only for greenhouses and hotbeds, but grown in the open field, they get sick, develop poorly and may die. If the variety is intended for open ground, then it can be grown in greenhouse conditions.

When buying hybrid seeds, you need to remember that they are sissies. They can be purchased if the site has highly fertile soil and the necessary conditions for growth are created for the plants throughout the growing season: timely watering, fertilizing, weeding.

For greenhouses and greenhouses, it is undesirable to buy bee-pollinated varieties of cucumbers: their harvest will be scanty due to the lack of pollinating insects. Parthenocarpic varieties and hybrids are ideal here.

For gardeners who are on the site in attacks, once every 7-10 days, it is better to buy simple varieties. They are less capricious and more adapted to Spartan conditions.

WHAT WE HAVE - SAVE

In winter, it is necessary to more often check the condition of stored vegetables and fruits, pickles and preservation. On frosty days, the temperature in the basement or cellar should be within + 2 + 4 ° C, air humidity - 85-90%. At a higher temperature, by this time, potato tubers and root crops are already beginning to leave their state of natural dormancy, germinate, some rot.

To prevent wilting, sprouts are cut off, and diseased specimens are removed. The mold that has appeared in tubs and other containers with salted and pickled vegetables is constantly removed.

FOR THE NOTICE

Onions and garlic for food purposes are stored in a warm and cold way. Warm - when they are stored in a dry and dark room at a temperature of +18 + 25 C. With a cold method, the storage temperature is + 1 + 3 ° C, relative air humidity is 60-65%. When stored in a warm way, the bulbs deteriorate less, but dry out.

DIARY OF A FLORIST - JANUARY

JANUARY IN THE HOUSE

There is snow outside the windows, and eternal spring on our window sills: indoor plants delight the eye with greenery and variegation of leaves. And some - and flowering, which even more uplifting. In winter, our green pets especially need care and attention. Position your floral collection as close to the light as possible. Blooming and variegated specimens try to illuminate at least 10 hours a day.

To keep the plants in a beautiful shape, periodically turn them in different directions to the light (do not touch the flowering ones!).

Plants forming buds and blooming flowers (azalea, hippeastrum, spathiphyllum, cyclamen, eucharis) are watered with settled water, the temperature of which is slightly higher than room temperature. Feed them twice a month with a readily soluble flowering plant fertilizer. Remove faded flowers promptly.

Water the decorative leaves on time, too, trying not to flood them and not overdry the earthen ball. After watering, loosen the topsoil.

Dry air from central heating batteries adversely affects the health and appearance of plants, provokes the appearance of pests on them. To protect your flower collection, do not forget to periodically inspect the plants, moisten the air around them, and occasionally give them a shower.

Check specimens wintering in cool rooms, water them occasionally.

Think about how you want to see your flower beds this year, the seeds of which plants you need to buy (do it early, while the choice is large). Look through the seeds left over from previous years. In case of doubt, check for germination. Make a plan for sowing flower crops for seedlings.

Inspect stored root tubers and corms from time to time. Destroy those who are badly hit. If a small part is damaged, cut it out and sprinkle the cut area with crushed charcoal or grease with brilliant green.

JANUARY IN THE GARDEN

In winter, the garden does not require special care, but you should not forget about it completely.

When removing snow from the paths, throw it on flower beds, an alpine hill. Make sure that perennial plantings (including roses) are covered with snow.

Trample the snow between the rows where the bulbs are planted. By disrupting the moves of the mice, you will not let them get to your plants. And regularly sprinkle around poisoned baits designed to control rodents. Choose ones that are safe for pets and birds.

Periodically check the condition of the plants on the alpine hill. If there is no snow, remove dried and rotten stems and leaves. Pour pebbles under the shoots lying on the ground. Cover plants that may be affected by frost.

Try not to walk on the lawn, even if it is covered with snow. In the spring, bald spots can form in these places.

If the water from the reservoir was not drained for the winter, make sure that during severe frosts there is at least a small hole for air access. You can protect the water surface from complete freezing by placing a bunch of reeds, plastic bottles or foam plastic in the pond.

Take a look at your garden and think about what herbaceous plants, shrubs and trees will help you make it more attractive and elegant in the cold season. At this time, the shape of the crown, the graphics of the branches, and the color of the bark come to the fore. And, of course, bright berries of mountain ash, wild rose, hawthorn, greens of coniferous and evergreen plants help out a lot.

And don't forget the birds! They are having a hard time at this time.

A FLOWER'S DIARY - JANUARY IN THE HOUSE

Once every two weeks, feed flowering or budding houseplants (hippeastrum, clivia, eucharis) with a complete mineral fertilizer solution.

If fuchsia began to fall leaves, most likely, the problem lies in the lack of light, high temperature and dry air. Move the plant to a lighter and cooler place with a temperature not exceeding 18 ° C. Increase the humidity of the air and, if possible, illuminate the fuchsia. You can send it for wintering in the basement or other place without access to sunlight with a temperature of 5 ... 7 ° C. The soil must be kept almost completely dry.

If the chrysanthemums in the basement have begun to grow, transfer them to the room (especially if elongated thin shoots have appeared). But do not immediately put the plants in too bright light, give them the opportunity to adapt. If the soil in the container is dry, moisten it. In two weeks it will be possible to start cuttings of chrysanthemums.

Examine the bulbs of gladioli, crocosmia, freesia, montbrecia sent for winter storage. If you notice a moldy coating on their bottom, gently wipe it off and treat the lower part with brilliant green (try not to burn the beginnings of the roots).

January is a favorable time for laying seeds for stratification of coniferous plants, as well as shrubs (turf, shefferdia, sucker, clematis, hawthorn, cotoneaster, almonds), perennial flowers (primrose, lavender, buttercups, anemones, viola, lychnis, delphinium, dicentra ... ). Seeds of aquilegia, delphinium, Chinese rose, primrose need about 3-4 weeks for stratification; aconite, anemones and hosts - about 1-1,5 months; iris, clematis, lavender, phlox - 3 months.

Spread the seeds on wet cotton pads or mix them with peat (a mixture of peat and sand in equal proportions is suitable), cover with plastic wrap, put in a box with a lid and send to the vegetable compartment. Check your crops regularly. Excess moisture during stratification is unacceptable, maintain the humidity of the substrate such that the seeds remain in a swollen state.

In early January, it is already possible to start sowing annual flower crops. For seedlings during this period, you can sow Waller's balsam, ever-flowering and tuberous begonia, heliotrope, kobeyu, pelargonium, perennial delphinium ... Shabo's carnation has a long growing season, so the seeds are also sown as early as possible.

It is not for nothing that poinsettia is called the "Christmas star" - its apical leaves, called bracts, really have the shape of a star and look very decorative. In order for the poinsettia to feel comfortable in the house and delight with its flowering appearance, keep it in a bright place, avoid drafts (so as not to provoke leaf fall in the plant), do not place it near heating appliances and do not allow the soil to dry out. Water it with warm filtered water. Leaves should not come into contact with cold glass. The optimum temperature for keeping poinsettias is 18…22°С.

A substrate is prepared from soddy land, humus, peat and sand in a ratio of 1: 1: 1: 0,5. The seeds are laid out on the surface of the soil and lightly sprinkled with a thin layer of calcined river sand (this is a good prevention of the black leg). Cover the crops with a film and put in a warm place (16 ... 18 ° C is enough for cloves to germinate).

at the end of January, begonias can be planted in pots with a soil mixture of leafy soil, river sand and peat (1: 1: 1). The tubers are laid out on the substrate with the convex side down. The tuber itself is only half-filled, so that it is easier for young shoots to germinate. When the sprouts reach 5-7 cm, the pots are moved to a well-lit window sill.

IN THE GARDEN

The garden also requires our attention in winter, despite the fact that there is still a lot of time before the new summer season.

To eliminate the danger of branches breaking off under the weight of snow, shake it off young conifers and decorative leafy crops.
Check out your flower beds. If open areas of the earth are visible on them, cover the bald spots, otherwise the perennials may freeze out.
If the winter is too sunny, burns may appear on coniferous plants or the color of the needles will change (later it may crumble). On the south side, shade the crown with non-woven material or kraft paper, agro-canvas. It is advisable to build a wigwam-shaped frame around the conifers, pulling breathable material over it to protect from the sun. Plants under the age of 5 years especially need this.
In winter, you can cut conifers, except for spruce and pine, as well as deciduous shrubs (but you can not remove more than 1/3 of the length). Most often in winter, corrective pruning is carried out in conifers. It is necessary to maintain the desired shape in plants.
Engage in rooting thuja cuttings. For cuttings, side branches are taken (with a “heel”). Sphagnum moss can be used as a substrate.

In the spring, rooted cuttings should be planted for growing in the garden. After 1-2 years, plants can be planted in a permanent place.