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BODY ROT OF HOME-GROWED TOMATOES

“Rely on calcium, but don’t make a mistake yourself!” - perhaps this is how I paraphrase a well-known proverb when it comes to blossom end rot in tomatoes grown on a windowsill. Calcium, or rather, its lack, is considered the culprit for the onset of the disease.

IS IT SO?

I learned from sources that the causes of blossom end rot are closely associated with a lack of calcium in fruits or with its small amount in the soil where tomatoes or peppers grow. Or it is in the form of insoluble salts and is not absorbed by the plant.

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This macroelement is involved in the formation of the membrane of the cells of the fruit.

When they grow, calcium is not evenly distributed inside, especially in those that are elongated. The distance from the base of the fruit to the top is longer than to the side walls. It turns out that there is less calcium at the top, although more is required for fruit growth. Along the conducting paths, it reaches the sides more easily than the tops, where cells divide. The shell is formed weak, unable to protect against infection. And the fruit rots in the place of its penetration.

WHY THERE IS NO EFFECT?

I used to use calcium nitrate when spraying in the form of an ambulance and was surprised at the lack of effect. I understood why when I began to understand the issue.

Sap flow occurs in every plant. Roots absorb water and nutrients from the soil. Leaves evaporate moisture through stomata. The processes of evaporation and absorption proceed simultaneously under the action of osmotic pressure. The conductive system works like a pump. For example, when the stomata do not open in hot conditions to conserve moisture, suction does not work. Consequently, the absorption of water and nutrition by the roots also stops. This is how a deficit occurs.

HOW TO FIGHT BODY ROT IN HOUSEHOLD TOMATOES?

To prevent blossom end rot, I follow this plan.

Refused calcium foliar dressings.

I'm not fond of potassium monophosphate, which blocks calcium.

I feed the plants under the root with dolomite flour, ash, monophosphate along with citric acid - 1 tbsp. per 10 liters of water, since its citrate salts (especially phosphorus and calcium) are more easily absorbed.

I water tomatoes and peppers well and often, avoiding overdrying, otherwise sap flow is disturbed.

I use microbiological fertilizers (Phosphatovit is useful).

I do not remove the rotten fruit, so as not to provoke the rapid growth of the rest. With calcium deficiency, other tomatoes will also be affected by blossom end rot.

I ventilate the room, turn on the fan so that there is no stuffiness and stagnation of air.

Experts comments

I advise you to immediately pick and destroy tomatoes with blossom end rot. Such fruits cannot be eaten fresh, used for processed products, even if you cut off the affected area. And, of course, you should not take seeds from them for further sowing. It is better to purchase new varieties that are resistant to diseases and pests, including drought and excess moisture.

Reference by topic: Growing tomatoes: varieties and re-grading, top rot, taste and why they crack