ROSES FOR BEGINNERS - 10 TIPS FOR THE QUEEN OF THE FLOWER

I have been growing roses for about 10 years and, of course, I made mistakes, but I also gained the necessary experience with them. Therefore, I want to share the acquired skills that I applied on the site laid by landscape designers.

ROSES GIVE SOS

Once a woman approached me, who had been employed by a person for 6 years in a row, most likely having neither experience nor desire to understand the agricultural technology of growing roses. All bushes were weakened. They were attacked by pests and massively ill with rust (the reference books indicate that the disease is very difficult to cope with, and sometimes it is completely incurable). The leaves turned yellow and crumbled from both rust and spotting. Quite a lot of roses, according to the hostess, have already died.

I started work on June 4, 2018. First of all, I took up pest control. Then a long (two-year) painstaking work began on the resuscitation of the rose collection. Now I want to share the experience that brought these plants back to life.

Note

Roses are more harmed not by the frosts themselves, but by strong winds that dry up shoots that are not covered with snow. As a result, they turn black, and in the spring it is necessary to shorten the bushes greatly.

My new friend, Galina Nikolaevna, had a lot of David Austin's English roses, hybrid tea and spray roses, a little less types of floribunda and grandiflora. An air-dry shelter was used to protect them in winter. This method allows you to save the shoots themselves as much as possible and, accordingly, to have flowering plants at an earlier date.

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See also: Roses for beginners in pink - planting and care

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nuances of caring for roses

In caring for roses, the main thing is agricultural technology. In early spring (before bud break), it is necessary to treat the bushes with a Bordeaux mixture, if this was not done in the fall.

During this period, you need to feed the roses with a complex fertilizer with a predominance of nitrogen. At the same time, it is desirable to process weak specimens along the leaf, that is, to make foliar processing with growth regulators. I use Epin Extra. And I water the plants under the root with Zircon.

If plants have chlorosis, it is necessary to immediately process them according to the sheet, for example, "Ferovit", which contains both nitrogen and iron (in chelate form). The substances of the drug act as an ambulance.

After the first flowering, you need to feed the plants with a complex fertilizer with a predominance of phosphorus, and at the end of August - with a high content of potassium. The main thing is not to overfeed the plants throughout the growing season.

Top dressing can and should be carried out not only under the root, but also on the foliage, only in smaller doses. I personally like to use microelements together with complex fertilizers (as top dressings for foliage), where humic substances and iodine are also included in their composition (for example, the company "August" "Humate 7+ iodine"). This treatment helps to additionally fight diseases, and the humate acts gently as an additional top dressing.

It is good to use wood ash, which does not contain nitrogen and additionally alkalizes acidic soils. It is necessary to take into account the fact that on acidified soils, plants lack nutrients, since they turn into a form inaccessible to them. Soils must be deoxidized by introducing lime materials.

It is also necessary to competently and timely deal with pests. Their number depends on the weather.

Council

Never feed roses with diluted fresh manure, this provokes plant diseases. Saying: the rose is the queen of manure, most likely about rotted organic matter, which is used as bedding or added to the pit when planting. Note

Currently, there are many drugs of biological origin against pests and diseases, you only need to observe the ambient air temperature, since bacteria do not work at low temperatures.

Watering roses is not necessary often, but plentifully, because the roots of plants lie very deep.

For more lush flowering, you can use boric acid (spray over the foliage) at the very beginning of flowering.

Proper pruning of roses is also important, and not only in autumn, but throughout the entire growing season. Faded plants should be cut obliquely just above the bud in the opposite direction from it (shown in the figure).

If the cut is made differently, the kidney will begin to rot, and the shoot will turn black.

Note

Don't be afraid to cut the faded plants with a small part of the branch, rather than the wilted flowers themselves. This is necessary for the greater growth of young shoots, which in this case will put forward more buds. Do not forget to also periodically cut out completely - at the level of the soil - the old stems that begin to hurt in the first place.

The secateurs should be sharp and not tear on the shoots of plants. If some of the roses are sick, in no case should you use the same tool, or you need to handle it well, for example, with alcohol.

Roses are best placed in sunny, windy areas. If the plants are covered for the winter, then the wind in winter will not dry out the plants. If you plant roses in low places with stagnant air, you should not count on the fact that spotting will not affect them here. The more sun in the morning, at noon, and in the late afternoon, the healthier the plants.

Try not to have a rose garden near a juniper. It is an intermediate host of a fungus that causes rust. This most dangerous disease, as a rule, leads to the death of roses.

ROSE DISEASE CONTROL

Almost 80% of Galina Nikolaevna's roses had rust. I had to process not only the flowers themselves, but also neighboring plants. I fought rust and spotting with the help of copper-containing preparations. Biological fungicides are only suitable as adjuncts.

Now about optional measures to support plants, but, in my opinion, having a good result. From time to time, roses can be treated with succinic acid on foliage. A liquid solution is more convenient, but tablets that must be diluted with water are also suitable. This option is cheaper.

I also tried my own know-how (at least, I have not seen such a tool anywhere in the literature). During the fruiting of apple trees, she took healthy clean fruits, cut them into small pieces, and then filled them with water. She insisted for a day and, having filtered, poured into a sprayer. With this infusion, she processed rose bushes by leaf. She did this once a week. From the apple “shower”, the foliage becomes glossy and, most importantly, clean from blotches, which, just at the end of summer, overwhelm the plants! It is the acidic environment (in this case, apple infusion) that is aggressive towards pathogens.

It is very good to shed the soil with Fitosporin-M, but the preparation should be in the form of a paste. Only from it is obtained a thick solution that suppresses pathogens that cause fungal diseases. When the plants are sick and the lower affected leaves are constantly falling from them to the soil, this method will come in handy. Additionally, the solution is also a humic top dressing, enriches the soil, increasing its fertility. But "Fitosporin-M" in powder works well when processing foliage.

In conclusion, I want to give advice: only in a complex can a positive result be achieved. Sometimes it is necessary to use chemical plant protection products, since biological ones are effective with more frequent treatments.

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See also: Growing roses from A to Z Part 1 и Part 2

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BEST ROSES FOR BEGINNER GARDENERS - VIDEO

© Author: Olga Vladimirovna AVERENKOVA, Moscow region, Balashikha

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