Eggplant pepper seedlings - growing instructions from A to Z
Contents ✓
PEPPERS AND EGGLANTS - HOW TO GROW AN EXCELLENT SEEDLING
Seeds of pepper and eggplant are best sown with a margin. Only fresh ones sprout together in peppers. After a year of storage, germination drops to 60%, after two - to 30%. This means that there is a possibility that out of 10 seeds sown, only half will reach the seedling beds. In eggplant, on the contrary, seeds that have been stored for about two years sprout better. Fresh ones have reduced germination, so their germination can take up to a month.
GROWING UNTIL THE BEAK APPEARS
For the same reason, before you start sowing immediately in pots, it is more practical to germinate the seeds first. Sown in a small dish is easier to create optimal conditions for germination. But only strong sprouts that have risen first will go to separate containers for further growing. As a result, the seedlings will turn out to be leveled, during growth they will have the same nutritional and watering needs. It is easier to take care of this one, and by the time it is planted in the ground, it will be in one stage of development.
Pepper and eggplant seeds need soft water, heat and air to germinate successfully. You can create such conditions by placing them on wet towels, preferably paper towels. Pieces of fabric, cotton pads and sponges are not so practical: I almost missed it - and the roots sprouted inside, as a rule, it is not possible to get them out of there without loss. If the seeds are of good quality, they should not be pre-soaked or disinfected. They will already be in a sterile environment, and their cotyledons have enough nutrients for successful germination.
A thick paper towel folded in two layers is placed in any low flat container (toilet paper and napkins soak quickly) and boiled, or better, melted water is poured. When the paper gets wet, the excess water is drained and the seeds are sown. They need to be distributed on a towel so that they do not touch each other.
Further, for better fixation, the seeds are sprayed with water from a spray bottle and tightened with cling film. It is better than the lid of the container and the bag because it breathes. Containers with seeds are placed closer to the heaters, and if they are not very hot, then directly on them, having previously placed wooden planks or pieces of foam. Seeds germinate faster when heat comes from above, not from below. The optimum temperature is 25…33°C.
The material on which the seeds are located must always be moist just enough so that water does not drip from it when squeezing. When drying, a towel with seeds is sprayed from a spray bottle. Even containers covered with cling film must be ventilated daily, the seeds actively breathe during this period and can die without access to oxygen. They are usually germinated until the beak appears, and then sown in a larger container or immediately in separate pots.
You can leave the seeds to grow a little more in the container in which they were germinated. To do this, as soon as the majority have beaks, they are sprinkled with about 1 cm of a light seedling mixture (everything that has not sprouted is removed with tweezers). Seedlings are kept until they shed their seed caps and open the cotyledon leaves. A paper towel will not be a hindrance when you need to seat them, by which time it will already be completely soaked. The only thing that is needed is to spread the seeds on a towel at a distance of 1,5-2 cm. And in order not to damage the roots during transplantation, water is poured into the container until dirt appears. Seedlings are taken out of it easily, without loss.
EACH VARIET - ITS OWN INCUBATOR
Seedlings can be grown even longer in sowing containers if they are germinated in a "seedling incubator". As it can be used any clean container that is suitable for creating a warm and humid chamber. These can be plastic containers or containers (it's good if they have lids). At the same time, it is desirable that they be small in volume (200 ml) and at least 5-7 cm high. They should have enough air volume and space for adding soil as the seedlings grow.
It is also important that each variety has such a personal incubator. The fact is that the difference in seed germination depends not only on their quality, but also on varietal characteristics. If different varieties are sown in one container, they will rise at the same time. Those who ascended will need to be immediately exposed to the light, and those who decide to think about it will need to provide maximum heat. In addition, sowing in different containers will not allow you to get confused in varieties, not to mention crops.
At the bottom of the container, 1 cm of a poor, light and moist seedling mixture is poured, seeds are evenly distributed over it, without covering. Crops are sprayed from a spray bottle and covered with a lid or tightened with a film. Then they act in the same way as in the case of sprouting on a paper towel. As soon as the beaks appear, they are sprinkled with seedling soil with a layer of 1 cm. When the first loops appear, the seedlings are transferred to the light, while the film is not removed from the seedlings of pepper and eggplant until they shed their seed caps. In addition, after each watering, add 0,5 cm of soil. If the seeds are immediately spread out at a distance of several centimeters, seedlings can be kept in such an incubator until picking.
The method is good because the seeds are in greenhouse conditions, but their germination is under control. As soon as most of them sprout, unsprouted seeds are removed. If there are seeds that do not germinate, there is always time to re-sow them.
See also: Pepper and aubergines - seed preparation, planting and care of seedlings
IF THE GENERATION IS NOT PLEASED
There are times when germination is not encouraging, but you really want to sow your favorite variety. This is especially true for not quite fresh seeds. To replenish the necessary energy for germination, the seeds are soaked in growth-stimulating substances. They can be natural or synthetically produced. One of the most popular and effective is Epin-extra (a solution of epibrassinolide in alcohol 0,025 g / l). Sold in small packages (1 ml - 30-36 drops). To prepare the solution, the ampoule taken out of the refrigerator is shaken and kept for 10 minutes at room temperature, after another shaking of the ampoule, 2 drops are mixed with 100 ml of water.
In the same solution, you can add 2 drops of Cytovit microfertilizer. It is better to place the seeds in cloth bags (well suited and designed for brewing tea), and then immerse them shallowly in a solution poured into a low, wide dish, because without oxygen they can suffocate. The thickness of the solution layer above the seeds should not exceed 8-10 mm. The soaking time in the preparation is 18-20 hours at a temperature of 18...20'C.
The active ingredient of Epin is destroyed in the light, as well as in an alkaline environment, therefore, it is necessary to store the drug in the dark, and acidify the water for dilution with several crystals of citric or boric acid. An overdose of the drug is unacceptable, it can cause the opposite effect.
Another drug is succinic acid. Unlike Epin-extra, it is a natural remedy. It is produced in two forms - concentrated pure (100%) in the form of white crystals and diluted liquid (hydralates). To obtain a working solution from crystals, they are first diluted in a glass of warm (above 35 ° C) water, the amount of which is adjusted to the required concentration before use. The best seed germination is achieved when using succinic acid at a concentration of 0,02 - 0,005%. (To obtain a 0,02% solution of 2 g (ml) succinic
acids are dissolved in 1 liter of water). If succinic acid was purchased in a pharmacy in the form of tablets, then one tablet is dissolved in 1 liter of water. Soak the seeds for 48 hours. You can leave them in solution until full germination, but after hatching, you need to immediately plant them in the ground. A small overdose of the drug is not dangerous. The remaining solution can be spilled indoor plants or seedlings.
Honey exhibits pronounced antimicrobial, antiseptic and immunomodulatory properties (which is very important when soaking and germinating seeds). Dissolve 1 teaspoon of honey in a glass of water and soak the seeds in this solution for 6 hours (you can soak overnight).
You can get seedlings faster from not quite fresh pepper seeds by carefully cutting off the nose of each seed with nail scissors, and then sowing them in light, moist soil under the film. It is clear that this method is not very suitable if you need to sow a lot of seeds, but for a few favorite varieties left over from previous years, it will even come in handy.
KEEP THE SEEDLING WARM
Seedlings of pepper and eggplant are planted in separate (0,2 l) pots only after they have two pairs of true leaves. The pot is filled with soil, compacted, a funnel is made with a peg, water is carefully poured into it in a trickle, the seedling, taken out with an undisturbed root ball, is lowered, and the soil is pressed around it with fingers. Plants are buried almost to the very cotyledon leaves. If the core root is very long, so that it does not bend when planting, it is better to pinch it.
The composition of the substrate for picking should be much richer than for sowing. Most often it is made up of purchased peat soil, garden soil and humus (3: 1: 1).
After the seedlings are placed in separate "apartments", the cups with seedlings are placed in plastic boxes or cake lids, covered with a piece of film on top and put on the windowsill. If the weather is sunny, it is better to shade the seedlings until they take root. After three to five days, when the seedlings take root and begin to grow, the film can be removed.
The second time peppers and eggplants are transferred in about a month into more spacious pots (0,5 l). At the same time, they can again be deepened, but only by 1,5-2 cm.
Seedlings are considered biologically complete, which by the time of planting, have a height of 25-30 cm, 12-14 well-developed leaves, a thick stem and several buds; in eggplants it reaches a height of 20-25 cm, has a thick stem with 8-9 leaves and well-formed buds.
The younger the seedling, the faster it takes root. But by planting too young plants, we greatly reduce the run, which is why we lose the advantages of the seedling method.
FOR THE NOTICE
Contrary to the opinion prevailing among some vegetable growers, pepper and eggplant plants tolerate both picking and deepening along the cotyledon leaves, while forming adventitious roots. But only in conditions that are comfortable for them: in warmth, at high humidity, and until their stem is woody. Otherwise, the seedlings, especially if their feet are cold, sit for a long time and do not start growing or even die. Unfortunately, it is almost impossible to provide them with such a life in unheated greenhouses. But you can - during the growing period at home, immediately after picking and transplanting. And by the time of planting in a permanent place, the seedlings will already have developed a powerful root system.
PEPPERS SEEDLING AND EGGPLANT - CARE IS ALMOST THE SAME
WE CALCULATE THE DATE OF SOWING PEPPER AND EGGPLANT
The easiest way to calculate is “from the opposite”. The optimal age of pepper and eggplant seedlings for planting in a greenhouse is approximately 60-65 days, counting from germination. However, they should not be moved to the beds earlier than in early May. So, we take away April and March. For peppers, let’s set aside another 10 days: they can take a long time to sprout, and their age is counted from sprouting. It turns out that you need to sow on February 20 (plus or minus 2-3 days).
It must be remembered that the growth and development of seedlings depend on temperature and light. If they are optimal, then standard seedlings can be grown in a shorter time (50-55 days after germination). If the seedlings grow in a cool, dimly lit room, then this period can extend to 70 days.
If you plant seedlings on May 15-25, we calculate: minus 10-12 days for sprouting, minus 65 days for growing seedlings. This means we sow on March 5-15, which is optimal for the middle zone of the country.
Start from the moment when you usually plant seedlings in the ground.
PEST PROTECTION FROM INFANTRY
Even before sowing the seeds, the place where the seedlings are grown must be protected from pests - be sure to treat the windows and window sills where they will grow. Many people do not even suspect that spider mites and aphids can live in the cracks of plastic windows at home, just waiting for the moment when fresh, tender greenery appears. It is also necessary to rid indoor flowers of pests using harmless biological products.
For sowing, do not use dirty pots in which seedlings have already grown. They must be disinfected.
AGRONOMY RULE
THE DEPTH OF SOWING SEEDS DEPENDS ON THEIR SIZE: THE BIGGER THE SEED, THE DEEPER. PEPPERS AND EGGPLANT SEEDS ARE SOWED TO A DEPTH OF 1 CM
WHAT TO SOW THE SEEDS IN
Pepper does not tolerate picking and transplanting well, so it is better to sow it directly into peat pots, which are then planted in the ground.
Eggplant is sown in seedling boxes (the distance between rows is 3-5 cm, between seeds in a row - 2 cm), then planted in pots with a diameter of 10 cm.
It must be remembered that the container for seedlings should not be large or small in size, like shoes on a child’s foot. In a large container, the roots do not breathe: the soil, not developed by the roots, cakes and gas exchange is disrupted. In a small container, nutrition is disrupted and there is no supply of moisture, since the plant quickly absorbs it.
TEMPERATURE CONTROL
The optimal temperature for seed germination is 26-28°C. The planted seeds should be placed closer to the heating device, and to maintain soil moisture, the container should be covered with a film or thick cloth on top. After the emergence of seedlings, the daytime temperature is maintained at 2-23°C, and the night temperature at 18-20°C.
Seedlings under two weeks of age are especially sensitive to low temperatures. At temperatures below 13°C their growth stops.
THE SEEDLING HAS LOOPS - NEEDS LIGHT
The appearance of loops and first cotyledons is a crucial moment in growing seedlings. If the seed containers are in the dark, then when the seedlings appear, the covering film is removed and the boxes are exposed to the light.
WHAT TO DO IF THE SEED COAT REMAINS
Often, upon germination, seeds are brought to the surface of the cotyledons, on which the seed coat is preserved. Left on a young seedling, it can lead to death or significant retardation in the growth of this plant. We need to help him. But if you try to remove the shell by force and damage the cotyledons completely or partially, then you can say goodbye to the plant.
Simple advice. Sprinkle plenty of water on the soil in the cup where such a defective seedling appeared and place it in a plastic bag. It creates 100% humidity, the seed coat is completely softened and after a few hours it is painlessly shed. As a last resort, a little help - and the seedlings are freed.
PROTECTION AGAINST THE HEAT OF PEPPERS AND EGGPLANT SEEDLINGS
In spring, the sun shines so strongly on southern windows that the seedlings “burn out.” The thinnest grade of non-woven material will help: if you stretch it over the glass, it will absorb excess heat and at the same time let in enough light.
THE FINE OF IRRIGATION
The homeland of peppers and eggplants is the subtropics, where it is always humid. But there is a difference in watering these crops - eggplants love water more than peppers, since the surface of their leaves is twice as large and they also evaporate more moisture. And the temperature regime for pepper and eggplant is the same.
After emergence, seedlings are watered rarely. Overmoistening of the soil can cause a dangerous disease - blackleg, which can ruin all plantings in a short time. Until the development of two true leaves, it is advisable to water the seedlings between the rows. And very carefully - so that the stream of water does not damage the delicate stems and leaves.
Do not leave drops of water on the leaves and stems - moisture provokes the development of fungal diseases.
When the soil is waterlogged, the roots stop breathing.
After picking and transplanting, the seedlings are watered moderately so that the roots grow well not only in different directions, but also in depth.
HOW TO HELP SEEDLINGS AFTER PICKING
Important!
Unlike tomatoes, eggplant seedlings “freeze” when picked and do not take root well if the roots are injured. For this crop, only careful transfer into a larger pot without destroying the earthen clod is desirable. The seedlings should be watered 2-3 hours before picking. You cannot select seedlings “dry”, as the soil will crumble from the roots.
Plants with two true leaves can be replanted. When transplanting, they should be planted so that the cotyledon leaves are in the soil. This way you can grow strong plants with an extensive root system.
So that after the pick. The seedlings have taken root better; for 3-4 days they need to be kept at a moderately warm temperature: 20-22°C during the day and 14-15°C at night.
The first time after picking, the seedlings are shaded from direct sunlight, the watering schedule is once every 1 days. If necessary, the plants are then transferred again to larger pots.
HOW TO PREPARATE WATER FOR IRRIGATION
Tap water for seedlings can be too hard and contains excess calcium from the lime used to purify it. It is important to let it sit for not one, but 2-3 days, so that chlorine and other compounds evaporate, and harmful suspensions sink to the bottom. The top 2/3 of the water is used for irrigation - it is the cleanest.
HOW OFTEN TO SPRAY PLANTS
Peppers and eggplants come from subtropics, so dry air is contraindicated for them. This means that they need to be moistened periodically (every 3-4 days). Spray the seedlings not before watering, but always after. And without excess - drops of water should not remain on the leaves.
BALANCED DIET
If the soil is nutritious, you can do without fertilizing. In general, fertilizing with weak doses of complete mineral fertilizer, half or even a quarter of the recommended dosage, gives a good effect. This feeding can be used frequently, almost every week.
If poor soils were used for seedlings, then during cultivation the plants are fed: the first time 1-2 weeks after picking, the second time 7-10 days before planting.
The simplest and most effective homemade mixture: add 10 tbsp to 1 liters of water. a spoonful of urea and potassium sulfate. Plants also respond well to this feeding: add 10 teaspoon of urea and 1 tbsp to 5 liters of water. spoons of mullein (or 1 tbsp. bird droppings).
One plant usually consumes 0 cups of the prepared mixture.
WHAT TO DO,
If the seedlings stretch?
Typically, the reason for the stretching of seedlings is the discrepancy between the temperature and light conditions of cultivation. That is, the temperature is too high and there is not enough light. To fix this, you need to lower the temperature and hang fluorescent lamps above the plants.
Have the leaves turned purple?
A purple tint to the leaves is a sign of phosphorus deficiency. If the seedlings are placed on a cold windowsill without placing insulation under the pots, then the soil in the containers becomes supercooled, phosphorus in the cold soil becomes inaccessible to young plants, and they begin to starve.
Are the leaves turning yellow and falling off?
There may be several main reasons for this phenomenon. Most often this is a flood of plants. This is possible in the absence of drainage and holes in the planting containers. Because of this, the soil in them turns sour, and as a result, the small suction roots of peppers and eggplants die off. Plants react to this by yellowing and dying leaves.
HOW TO FIGHT UP THE BLACK FOOT
Often the cotyledon leaves of young seedlings turn yellow and wither, the root collar area becomes soft, rots and the plant breaks at the base, and therefore dies after lodging. To prevent the disease, seedlings are watered with a fungicide solution: “Fitosporin-M”, “Gamair”, “Alirin-B” or “Previkur” (strictly according to the instructions).
WE INCREASE THE ADAPTABILITY OF SEEDLINGS
WE acclimate to the cold
In order for plants to quickly get used to garden conditions after growing at home, they should undergo a hardening procedure. This process should begin 10-15 days before the young plants are planted in the ground.
To do this, the air temperature in the room is gradually reduced (first during the day, then at night) to 17-18°C. Or they take the seedlings out onto the balcony or loggia so that the plants get used to the fresh air.
At first, vegetable seedlings are taken out for no more than 1 or 2 hours a day, only if it is warm outside. Every day the stay time is increased by an hour. With the onset of stable warmth, young eggplants and peppers can be left outside all day.
During hardening of seedlings, it is worth changing the plant watering regime. The volume of water should remain the same, and the intervals between waterings should be increased. Moistening is carried out when the soil is completely dry.
AND TO THE HEAT
At about the age of 1 month, you can begin to prepare the seedlings for cold nights in the greenhouse, for which in May they are left overnight in a glassed-in loggia. This is enough, since the greenhouse will be warmer on summer nights.
However, not everyone remembers about hardening plants with “heat,” which during the heat of summer will be more important for them than getting used to the cold. This type of hardening begins earlier, that is, at the age of 2-5 weeks. The seedlings are “fried” in a transparent film bag in the sun, with a thermometer in hand. A temperature of 55-40°C will be quite enough, and if it rises higher, make a gap for air exchange. Start with half an hour in this mode, and after several sessions increase it to 2-5 hours.
WHAT IS THE LIGHTING MODE FOR PEPPERS AND EGGPLANT SEEDLINGS?
In the first 20 days after emergence, illumination should be abundant, but limited in time to 12 hours.
In this case, it is advisable to cover the seedlings with dark, opaque material after 19:00. This will allow you to get stronger plants, which will accordingly affect the yield.
CHECKED!
Seedlings planted in the ground at the “right” age and at the right time do not seem to notice the move to the garden bed. Well, maybe the leaves will droop a little - but in an hour and a half it will recover. And after a week, the plants are no longer recognizable - they fill with power literally before our eyes!
WHY DO THE SEEDLINGS GET FAT AND DO NOT FLOWER?
What mistakes can be made when growing pepper and eggplant seedlings:
Hurry up and sow the seeds earlier than is customary in your climate zone. In central Russia this is the end of January - February, when the days are short. In this case, fluorescent lamps were not used, although daylight hours had to be increased to 12-14 hours. In the middle zone, it is better to sow peppers and eggplants for seedlings on March 15-20, if you are not going to seed them.
Fresh manure or semi-decomposed compost was added to the seedling soil, which should not be done.
The seedlings were overfed with nitrogen fertilizers, and they lacked phosphorus and potassium.
Watering was frequent and in the evening. The fact is that peppers and eggplants need moisture more than tomatoes, but they need to be watered less often, although more abundantly.
IF YOU DECIDED TO BUY SEEDLINGS
On the one hand, it is easier to buy seedlings than to grow them. But there is also difficulty in choosing a good plant in the store. One small defect can turn into a big problem in the future - from delayed fruit set to complete lack of harvest. Therefore, when purchasing plants, we pay attention to details! Seedlings should be abandoned in the following cases:
- It is elongated - it grew at high temperatures and insufficient light. This is fraught with late fruit laying. The bud freezes.
- Without apical bud. The seedlings may have suffered mechanical damage during transportation, or the bud may have died due to insufficient nutrition.
- The leaves have a yellowish tint, are wrinkled, and deformed.
- There is only one skinny root and no interweaving of the substrate - the seedlings were overwatered or unevenly watered. It will hurt, and the fruiting date may be delayed by about a month.
TIMELINES FOR PLANTING PEPPER AND EGGPLANT SEEDLINGS INTO THE SOIL
Peppers and eggplants are more demanding of high soil temperatures than other crops, so they are planted in the greenhouse about 10-15 days later than, for example, tomatoes. In the middle zone, plants are planted in unheated greenhouses on May 15-25, and the soil temperature should not be lower than 17-18°C. In air-heated greenhouses, you can plant pepper and eggplant seedlings about 10-15 days earlier.
SIGNS OF STRONG HEALTHY SEEDLINGS OF EGGPLANT AND PEPPER
- A well-developed root system that goes right through the pot and comes out through the holes.
- The roots entwine the substrate.
- Strong, with a thick stem and short internodes.
- All leaves are uniformly colored green, dark green.
- The leaves are smooth, without deformation, without wrinkles.
- The leaves below may have a purple tint - this is a sign that the seedlings grew at moderate temperatures and are strong. But there is a lack of phosphorus; at this stage, this does not affect the future harvest.
WHEN THE SEEDLINGS ARE READY FOR PLANTING
Each type of plant has its own criteria:
- It is desirable for pepper to have a bud or flower;
- Eggplant has 4-5 leaves and it’s normal if there is a flower.
STEM THICKNESS
The diameter of the plant stem before planting should be:
- pepper – 5-4 mm;
- eggplant – 5-7 mm.
- Important!
The height of the seedlings before planting should be 20-22 cm, while the pepper should have 8-10 leaves, and the eggplant should have 6-8.
GENERAL RULES FOR LANDING
FOLK WISDOM - SEEDLINGS NEED TO BE TRANSPLANTED TO A PERMANENT PLACE SO THAT IT DOESN’T NOTICE THE MOVE
HOW TO MAKE SEEDLINGS EASIER THE ESTABLISHMENT PROCESS
A few days before planting in the ground, the seedlings stop watering. And 1-1 hours before transplanting, they spill water so that the earthen lump becomes wet. Then it will not disintegrate, the roots will hardly be damaged.
In cloudy weather, pepper and eggplant seedlings are planted in the morning; in sunny weather, in the late afternoon. Then she will fit in better.
The holes should be slightly larger than the size of the container in which the seedlings grew.
Plants will tolerate transplantation much easier if the holes are spilled with warm water.
If the soil is not very fertile, add a handful of humus or compost, 1/4 teaspoon of superphosphate and 1 tbsp. spoon of ash.
Plants are planted vertically at the same depth at which they grew in containers. They don't bury it. Pegs with a height of at least 60 cm are installed nearby - in the future they will be needed for gartering.
The planted seedlings are not hilled.
Sprinkle generously with water (2-3 liters per plant). If the soil settles, add some soil.
To help seedlings take root faster, you can slightly loosen the soil in the root zone - surface loosening provides an additional flow of oxygen.
TRANSPLANTING PLANTS FROM DIFFERENT CONTAINERS
If the seedlings are in peat pots or tablets, then they are lowered directly into the containers into pre-dug holes and sprinkled with soil. Then compact it on all sides with your hands so that there are no voids left, and water it generously.
Cardboard or paper cups are cut lengthwise with scissors and the plants are carefully removed from them: holding them by the stem and trying not to disturb the earthen lump. Lower it into the hole, sprinkle it with soil, compact it well and water it.
With plastic containers, it is better to act like this: hold the glass by the middle with one hand, and by its edge with the other. In this case, the stem of the plant is placed between the middle and index fingers, and the container is turned over. With the hand closer to the center, remove the cup, with the other hand, turn the plant over and lower it into the hole together with a lump of earth.
It is more difficult to get seedlings out of the cassettes: the blade of a spatula (spatula) is carefully inserted into the gap between the wall of the container and the earthen lump, trying to lift it a little. The same is done on other sides. Then the plant is taken by the stem and carefully removed from the container.
Seedlings are removed from a common box using a planting scoop. Cut the soil into squares with plants in the center. Then the scoop is buried in the soil next to the seedling, tilted and removed.
IMPORTANT DETAILS
When planted in the ground, early varieties of pepper should have formed buds.
Eggplants can be planted next to peppers.
Tall varieties of peppers and eggplants are best grown in a greenhouse.
Peppers and eggplants do not tolerate chlorine, so potassium chloride should not be used when fertilizing.
If there are not many peppers, it can be planted along a row of tomatoes, which will protect the plants from aphids.
BEST "APARTMENT"
Both peppers and eggplants grow well in an open, sunny location. Especially if on the north side the bed is protected from wind and draft.
These crops cannot be planted in lowlands where water accumulates and stagnates.
The process of planting seedlings in a greenhouse and open ground is practically the same. Only different dates: they are planted in a greenhouse
PRECEDORS TO PEPPER AND EGGPLANT
BEST
Legumes (beans, peas); pumpkin crops (cucumber, pumpkin); all types of cabbage. Can be planted after carrots, onions and garlic. Green manure is good if it is rye or vetch.
THE WORST
It is strictly forbidden to grow peppers and eggplants in the place where nightshade crops grew - tomato, potato, physalis and, of course, pepper and eggplant. The diseases are the same. Pests too.
GOOD AND BAD NEIGHBORS
Peppers and eggplants will not be friends with all plants. They get along best next to onions, spinach, coriander, tomatoes, and basil. And they constantly “quarrel” with beans and fennel.
PEPPER. FEATURES OF LANDING
OPTIMUM PLANTING TIMES
Pepper seedlings can be planted in a permanent place when the soil at the root depth warms up to 15°C. And the average daily air temperature should remain consistently above 15-18°C.
SOIL PREPARATION
If the soil on the site is loamy, before planting pepper seedlings, add 1 bucket of well-rotted manure or peat and 2/1 bucket of half-rotted sawdust per 1 m2 of area.
In clay and dense soil, in addition to humus or peat, add 1 bucket of coarse sand and 2 bucket of semi-rotted sawdust per 1 m1.
To improve the fertility of a sand bed per 1 m2, you need to add 2 buckets of peat or clay
PLANT HOT PEPPERS AWAY FROM SWEET PEPPERS
You should not grow sweet and hot pepper varieties next to each other: due to cross-pollination, the Bulgarian fruits will taste bitter.
Hot peppers are planted more densely: the distance between plants is 25 cm, between the rows - 45-50 cm of soil, 2 buckets of humus and 1 bucket of sawdust.
On a peat plot, per 1 m2 of area, add 1 bucket of humus and 1 bucket of turf soil (possibly clay).
A week before planting seedlings, beds filled with fertilizers must be watered generously.
EGGPLANT. FEATURES OF LANDING
OPTIMUM PLANTING TIMES
Due to their sensitivity to frost, eggplants cannot be planted in open ground until the average daily temperature in the region rises to 20°C. The soil temperature should be within 18°C.
The eggplant root system is delicate, so you need to carefully remove the plants from the seedling container.
Eggplant seedlings take a long time to take root. The lower leaves may turn yellow as the roots are damaged. To recover, the plants will need 5-7 days and regular watering.
After planting, it is advisable to mulch the beds and only then water them to maintain the loose structure of the soil. Mulch perfectly conserves heat and moisture and allows you to reduce the number of waterings.
SHORT
It is better to grow eggplant hybrids in greenhouses. It is advisable to plant on the south side of the greenhouse. Seedlings are transplanted to the garden bed at the age of 2-2 months from the moment of emergence.
If eggplants are planted in sunny weather, the plantings are covered with paper caps to protect them from direct sunlight. The same thing applies to cold winds.
SOIL PREPARATION
The best soil for eggplant is loamy or sandy loam.
Before planting eggplant seedlings, add (per 1 m2) the following to loamy or clay soil: 1 bucket of manure, 1 bucket of sand, 2 buckets of peat and about 1/2 bucket of half-rotted sawdust.
For a peat area (per 1 m2): 1 bucket of turf soil, 1 bucket of sand and 1 bucket of humus.
Sandy soil (per 1 m2): 3 buckets of clay soil, 2 buckets of peat, 2 buckets of humus, 1 bucket of half-rotted sawdust.
For every square meter of any soil area, add 2 cups of wood ash, 1 teaspoon of urea, 1 tbsp. a spoonful of superphosphate and 1 tbsp. a spoonful of potassium sulfate. Fresh manure cannot be added to the soil. After adding the additives, the soil is dug up, leveled, and slightly compacted.
IMPORTANT NUANCES
In warm regions or in a greenhouse, low-growing peppers can be planted in a “bouquet” - 2-5 bushes per hole. This way the plant becomes stronger, grows thicker, and during hot weather it retains moisture well under the bushes. In this case, it is important to leave a distance of 2-5 cm between the stems.
Planted seedlings of peppers and eggplants can be covered with plastic bottles with the bottom and top cut off. Being in the “pipe”, young plants will be protected from drafts, and eggplants will also be protected from the Colorado potato beetle. You can pour mulch into the “pipe”.
Seedlings can be protected from mole crickets using “bracelets” cut from plastic bottles. They are stuck into the ground around the plants.
After planting in the ground, it is advisable to cover eggplant and pepper seedlings with non-woven material and leave for at least 2 weeks. During the day, the shelter should be opened slightly to ventilate the plants.
TABLE. Planting scheme for peppers and eggplants
LANDING SCHEME | PEPPER | EGGPLANT |
Single line landing | Tall - 45 cm between plants; | Tall – 45-55 cm between |
medium height – 30-35 cm; short - | plants; medium height - no less | |
20-25 see | 35-45 see | |
Double-line checkerboard landing | Low-growing varieties are planted at a distance of 30-40 cm from each other; tall - 60 cm. The distance between rows should be 50-60 cm | The distance between plants is at least 35-45 cm. Row spacing should be at least 55-60 cm |
Double-line square-nested landing | Plants are planted in the corners of a square at a distance of 60 x 60 cm. 2 plants can be planted in each hole | For tall varieties with large fruits, use a pattern of 60-70 x 60-70 cm; for short varieties, the side of the square will be 40-50 cm |
Important!
Schemes for planting vegetable seedlings for greenhouses and open ground are the same. With closer planting, the yield will decrease.
Reference by topic: Growing sprouts seedlings (pepper, physalis, tomato and eggplant) - planting and care
SEEDLING OF PEPPER AND EGGPLANT - GROWING ON VIDEO
Below other entries on the topic "Dacha and garden - with their own hands"
- Technology for growing greens (green crops)
- Growing green peas - planting and care (St. Petersburg)
- Purple Pea Varieties - Name and Description
- The distance between vegetables when planting (nutrition area) - memo
- Armenian white cucumber Bogatyr (photo) planting and care, reviews and benefits
- Seedling Mistakes - Part 2
- Sowing seeds immediately into the ground - so that they ascend faster
- Growing of green (margelan) radish - planting and care
- Pumpkins of the Candy, Marble and Family varieties - photos, descriptions and my reviews
- Moving seedlings from A to Z in one table-reminder!
Subscribe to updates in our groups and share.
Let's be friends!
#
I plant seedlings of peppers in a mini-greenhouse rather closely to each other - these plants love tightness. I don't tie. Almost all the time, the peppers are under a film cover - during the day in the heat I roll up the film, and put it on again at night. Where peppers grow, it must be warm and damp. But the thickening of the bush is unacceptable, so once a week I inspect each plant and cut out weak shoots, as well as shoots directed deep into the bush, so as not to interfere with stronger ones. I also remove shoots that have a lot of flowers (I thin out the flowers or cut out the shoot completely). In a word, see that each bush becomes beautiful and compact. Your intuition will tell you what is best. Don't be afraid to cut and pluck. You still get
harvest, even if you do it wrong! How does the classic sound advice on how sculptures are created? Cut off all unnecessary, and a masterpiece will be born!