Planting blackcurrant - pit preparation and further care
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BLACKCURRANT: FROM PLANTING TO SUPER YIELD
It is hard to imagine a garden without tasty and healthy currants. But the first step to the super-yield of this berry plant is the correct planting.
PIT PREPARATION FOR PLANTING BLACKCURRANT
For currants, dig holes 30 cm deep and 60 cm in diameter. In each, add 8-10 kg of manure or humus, 120-140 g of 20% superphosphate and 40 g of 40% potassium salt (can be replaced with wood ash - 300 g to the hole). To improve aeration, add 2-3 buckets of peat.
LANDING OF THE BLACK CURRANT
Plant annual seedlings at a distance of 1-1 m from each other, between rows - 5 m. The ideal planting pattern is in a checkerboard pattern: then it is convenient to care for, pick berries, and the bushes will be evenly caressed by the sun.
In a previously prepared hole, dig a hole the size of the roots, add some soil without fertilizer. Place the seedling at an angle of 45 degrees, deepening by 7-10 cm. Spread the roots in all directions, and fill the space between them with earth, leaving no voids. After planting, be sure to water the currants and shorten the aerial part to 5 cm from the soil level so that 2-3 well-developed buds remain on the stem.
FURTHER CARE: PROTECTION AND FEEDING
In the first year after planting, regularly loosen the soil crust, mulch the bush with compost or peat, water it during dry and hot spring.
For American powdery mildew, treat the plants twice (before flowering and after harvesting) with Topaz (2 ml per 10 liters of water) or Fundazol (10 g per 10 liters of water). Against pests, use Actel-lik (15 ml per 10 liters of water), Novaktion (5 ml per 10 liters of water) or Fufanon (4 ml per 10 liters of water).
In the spring, as soon as the currant starts to grow, pour 80 g of nitrogen fertilizers under each bush, and after harvesting - 100 g of superphosphate and 50 g of potassium salt. Apply humus or compost every three years (10 kg per bush). During the active growth of shoots, the formation and development of ovaries, feed the currants with infusion of bird droppings (1:10). Mineral fertilizers dissolved in water can be poured into the grooves around the bush (15-20 g of ammonium nitrate, 20 g of superphosphate, 10-15 g of potassium sulfate per 10 liters of water).
© Author: Alexander Gorny, Cand. of sciences
Reference by topic: Blackcurrant permaculture - without chemicals and fertilizers
GROWING BLACKCURRANT - TIPS GARDENERS
DO APHIDS FEAST ON THE CURRANT? HERE'S HOW TO GET RID OF THE PEST!
At the beginning of the growing season, gardeners are faced with the appearance of unattractive swollen red bubbles on the leaves of the red currant. The leaves seem to be covered with allergic blisters. Then they dry up, the shoots are deformed, and the bush as a whole looks unhealthy. Many people think it's a disease. But it is not. The cause of the appearance of swelling on the leaves of the currant is a pest - red-currant aphid.
The pest inhabits only the youngest leaves in early spring, and then migrates to weeds. And when, for example, in May, the gardener examines the bushes in search of a reason, naturally, he no longer finds aphids, he believes that this is a disease, and he treats the currants with a fungicide. But it does not help - and from year to year the problem repeats again. Therefore, the fight against this pest should be started as early as possible, already with the appearance of the first leaves.
First processing - in the period of blooming leaves, before flowering. For spraying, you can even take a broad-spectrum drug (for example, Aktara): it will also help to “deal” with currant mites.
Second treatment (in no case do not miss it: this is the main chance in the fight against aphids!) we carry out after flowering, when the flowers on the currant tie berries. We spray the bushes with any permitted insecticide (Aktara, Eforia, Karate, Decis, Fufanon). This will protect the plants not only from red gall aphids, but also from other dangerous pests - sawflies, leaf-eating moths.
LET YOUR CURRANT BUSHES BE RED FROM berries, NOT FROM APHIS ON THE LEAVES!
PREVENTIVE MEASURES: DOWN WITH THE WEEDS!
Do not forget to fight weeds around the berries. It is on the weeds that the red-gall aphid and other pests hide. Also, weeds are a reservoir of dangerous viral diseases, such as currant terry. By fighting them, you thereby prevent the appearance of this incurable disease in the garden and provide yourself with an excellent harvest.
© Author: Yulia KONDRATENOK, Cand. agricultural sciences
Reference by topic: How to save black currant from anthracnose with folk remedies
HOW TO PLANT BLACKCURRANT CORRECTLY - VIDEO
Below other entries on the topic "Dacha and garden - with their own hands"
- Green Fruit Blackcurrant (photo) and other species
- Varieties of black currants for the Irkutsk region - choose the best
- Currant pruning after planting in October
- Growing red currants - planting and care, questions and answers
- 4 ways to grow currants - on a trellis, on a trunk, bush, columns
- Caring for currants in the summer, after harvesting berries
- Currant renewal by cuttings
- Growing black currant in the Moscow region - feeding and spraying
- Planting black currant on a spunbond
- New varieties of blackcurrant resistant to disease - photo and title
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Do currants need sunshine? According to some experts, currants need only a sunny place. But on my site currant bushes; planted at a distance of 1 m from the house and are in partial shade until almost 11 am. But the yield is high. Moreover, rather large, juicy and tender berries ripen in early July - no later than on currants in neighboring areas in the sun.
I am convinced that plants have enough of the solar energy that they receive in the afternoon. After all, the June day lasts up to 22 hours, and this is exactly the period during which the intensive ripening of berries occurs.
Of course, most plants love the sun. But do they have to be baked in the heat from sunrise to sunset? My currants liked moderately sunny growing conditions. Apparently, the currant feels comfortable, and therefore bestows full-fledged berries.
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Currant seedlings for three months
Everyone knows that it takes a year or even two to grow a seedling of many crops. But you can grow excellent seedlings with a 100% survival rate in three months. And it's not difficult at all.
In late January or early February, I cut cuttings with 5-8 buds from the annual shoots of the most productive bushes and immediately put them in glass jars with water, which I change weekly. I add a couple of grains of complete (universal) garden fertilizer to the water. I put the container on a bright window.
In May, when the probability of frost is already minimal, the cuttings form an excellent root system and shoots with a length of IQ-15 cm - these are seedlings of the desired variety ready for planting. By the autumn of the same year, with good care, they turn into powerful bushes.
The first harvest of berries can be harvested next fall.