THE BIGGEST FLOWERS FOR YOUR GARDEN
© Author: Galina Artemova
Sooner or later, the plants in the garden become boring, cease to delight and amaze.
There is a desire to have something special to be proud of, impress friends and exchange its valuable shoots and rhizomes for other garden rarities.
For example, how do you like the idea of choosing the largest perennial that stands out for its gigantic growth or flower size?
Such a plant will definitely not go unnoticed.
Among large-flowered herbaceous peonies, the Pillow Talk variety of medium flowering period should be noted first of all. Pale pink flowers reach a diameter of 25 cm with a bush height of about 80 cm. The flowers are double, pink, very tightly stuffed, but do not look "shaggy". The stems are strong, with moderate branching, the leaves are semi-glossy, a light green color rare for peonies. In 2013, the variety was awarded the American Peony Society.
Another light pink champion is the Dinner Plate variety, whose name translates as “dinner plate” and speaks of the significant size of the flowers. The mid-late variety is perfectly adapted to our climate (3rd frost resistance zone), it is distinguished by medium (about 1 m) bush sizes and long, up to 14 days, flowering. The flowers are weather-resistant, good for cutting and have a very interesting color: pink-pearl, iridescent in the sun. In the center of the buds, pale yellow reed petals are visible.
RECIPE FOR SUCCESS
A species or variety of a plant can reach its declared height only under favorable conditions, when the climate, soil, level of illumination and moisture meet its requirements. The duration of daylight hours also plays a role, which varies in different climatic zones in different ways. Some herbaceous perennials react to it not only with the timing of flowering, but also with the height of the stems, the size of flowers and inflorescences.
Over the years, most perennials become hardier, but at a young age they are more vulnerable. If for an adult plant some errors in agricultural technology and difficult weather conditions can only spoil the “appearance” a little, then for a young plant they are often fatal.
Fans of a bright juicy palette will surely like the pure red flowers of the Henry Bockstoce peony, without any admixture of other shades, exceeding 20 cm in diameter. The center of the double flowers is decorated with swirling petals, the foliage is light green.
Surprisingly good terry, large, fragrant peony Sorbet. But in order not to be disappointed in the variety, keep in mind that in the pictures in the catalogs its flowers are often painted in intense pink and have a bright yellow ring in the middle tier. In fact, the tones are calmer: the lower petals are pink, the numerous narrow middle petals are creamy beige, the core of the flower is crowned with a pink crown. It is also important to know that the color of the variety changes depending on the flowering stage and the degree of illumination. Only a blossoming flower is quite bright, but eventually fades (in the sun almost to white). In partial shade, the pink color lasts longer, but all the same, towards the end of flowering, the petals noticeably turn pale.
To match the luxurious lush peonies, the Siberian iris Berlin Puple Wine has a medium flowering period. The variety is distinguished by large purple-wine flowers with a bright brindle pattern around the throat. Straight, strong stems reach a height of 90 cm. Modern large-flowered varieties, to which this handsome man belongs, usually need protection from the wind. Even a strong peduncle is often unable to hold large flowers, heavy from moisture, under gusts of wind and rain. However, Berlin Puple Wine is quite stable, and even its fans do not fall apart until the very end of the season.
The statement that irises easily put up with penumbra, especially in the afternoon, is true only for the southern regions.
Another giant, the bearded Bold Fashion iris, is indispensable without a garter, but the variety is so delightful that it deserves care. Huge (17-18 cm), dense, slightly corrugated flowers, high (about 1 m) peduncles. The upper petals are creamy yellow, the lower ones are white, surrounded by a wide purple-purple border and decorated with a bright tangerine beard. What is especially important - the foliage retains its decorative effect for a long time and is not affected by diseases.
Oriental lilies have the largest and most expressive flowers, but these exotic beauties are known to be very capricious and demanding. In the northern regions, in order to protect their bulbs from frost, it is recommended to grow plants in pots and put them indoors for the winter or organize a reliable shelter for plantings. But in the second half of summer, blooming flowers will fascinate with their beauty and fragrance.
Herbaceous peonies begin to fully bloom in the 3rd year after planting.
The Captain Tricolore variety has a strong, rich aroma, the flowers of which are simply huge (up to 25 cm in diameter) and also have an unusual color. Quite wide milky-white petals with corrugated edges and a yellow stroke in the center are surrounded by a bright lilac-pink border. The height of this lily is about 130 cm.
A very bright variety Jaybird attracts attention with a contrasting color. Juicy raspberry strokes and purple flecks flaunt the soft pink petals of this oriental lily. No more than 3 flowers bloom on one stem, but their sizes are impressive - over 22 cm.
OT hybrids are the result of crossing oriental and tubular lilies. Unlike their parents, plants are not so capricious, more hardy and hardy. Among them, there are also "gullivers" - for example, a tall (up to 1 m) Atari variety with 5-centimeter flowers. From the base to the middle, the petals are painted red-burgundy, and their edges are white-cream. Flowering usually begins towards the end of July and lasts up to 25 weeks.
The most unpretentious - Asiatic lilies. And they bloom very luxuriantly. For example, remember the domestic variety Sea Foam. Up to 25 flowers can bloom on one plant - cream with a subtle green tint and bent pointed petals.
Another "Asian" that deserves attention, but with a brighter "appearance" - Patricias Pride. The flowers are relatively large (up to 18 cm), with a creamy white center, which is decorated with a rich burgundy speck. Closer to the center on the petals are maroon, almost black spots.
Let's move on from large-flowered perennials to tall ones. Eremurus adds a peculiar exotic to the garden, significantly increasing its growth due to high (up to 2 m) peduncles. Eremurus candles consist of numerous small flowers that can be white, pink or yellow. Bell-shaped flowers are located on a high brush in a spiral and bloom gradually - from the base to the top.
The perennial prefers sandy loamy soils with a neutral or alkaline reaction and is quite thermophilic, so not all species can be grown in central Russia. The most unpretentious Himalayan eremurus, blooming white flowers in late spring - early summer. Pyramidal paniculate inflorescences reach a length of 1 m, and in diameter the perennial grows up to 60-70 cm with a total height of about 2 m. The foliage is bright green, belt-like.
Some hybrid varieties are also resistant to our climatic conditions - for example, Kleopatra with bright orange flowers, pastel pink Romance.
Eremurus is good in single plantings, looks great in the background of a flower garden, combined with decorative onions and cereals.
Annually digging up the rhizomes of the plant for the winter is too risky, since the tender fleshy roots easily break off and the infection penetrates through the wounds. Therefore, in the northern regions, it is recommended to deepen the plantings of eremurus (but not more than 8 cm - otherwise there will be no flowering) and use shelter. For the winter, a layer of straw or spruce branches is laid on the plant, and in the spring, when a positive night temperature is established, the shelter is removed, but they make sure that the eremurus sprouts that appear do not fall under frost.
Strong gusts of wind are not afraid of eremurus flower stalks, but can damage its foliage.
A strong vertical, which is necessary in mixed flower beds, can create tall aconites. In single plantings, they successfully cope with the role of an "exclamation mark" that draws the eye to a separate fragment of the garden.
Some aconites allow you to rely not so much on flowering, but on the beautiful shape of the bush and the texture of the leaves. For example, aconite is tall, gigantic growth fully justifies its name, is distinguished by erect, thick, furrowed stems, covered, like leaves, with long appressed hairs. Very large foliage and tall stems make the plant unusually expressive. At the same time, dirty purple flowers are unremarkable.
The main color scheme of aconites is a muted noble violet-blue and purple-lilac tone. One of the most common types of aconite clobuche with tall straight stems and dense racemose inflorescences blooms closer to mid-summer. A very hardy and winter-hardy plant did not go unnoticed by breeders, and several interesting garden varieties were obtained on its basis. Of the most stately and tall, I would like to note Bicolor - reaching almost 2 meters in height with unusual white flowers with a blue-blue border. The Rubellum variety is slightly lower, but with pale pink, rather large flowers, rare for aconites, blooming in the second half of summer. Grandiflorum Album has pure white flowers, and the height of the bush is about 1 m.
Aconites grow quickly and can be divided every 4 years. But in order to properly propagate a plant, you need to know the structural features of its root system. Tuberous species, which include aconite klobuchkovy, are planted in the fall, because in the spring they quickly start growing and it can be difficult to divide them. The most productive tubers are daughter tubers.
Rhizome species (high aconite) are divided and planted in the spring, in April-May, until their shoots have grown strongly.
The window sill reaches its full decorativeness by the end of summer, when large corymbose inflorescences proudly rise on slender stems, clearly visible from afar. In the stately handsome purple stalks, the green stems at the nodes are slightly colored dark pink. The height of plants of a natural species sometimes exceeds 2 m. Oval-lanceolate pointed leaves up to 30 cm long are located in whorls of 3-5. Dark pink flowers are collected in small inflorescences-baskets, forming complex shields, reaching 20 cm in diameter. Flowering continues up to 1 months.
The spotted vine justifies its name with pinkish spots on the stems, but there are plants with shoots completely painted in this color. Of the tallest varieties, the following can be noted. Album with greyish white flowers and Atro-purpureum with dark red stems and bright pink-purple buds. These varieties reach a 2-meter po hundred. Up to 2 m grows Orchard Dene, characterized by dark crimson strokes on the stems, its flowers are deep pink. Bartered Bride reaches the same height with pure white flowers.
Large hostas with their size are quite capable of competing with some shrubs, and thanks to the lush large foliage, even being in the background of the composition, they will never be left without attention. Especially if the leaves of the host are not simple, but corrugated, with a striated surface, as, for example, in the Empress Shi variety. Plants reach a height of 1 m, growing in diameter up to 1 m. Leaves up to 5 cm long and about 45 cm wide are directed vertically. In mid-summer, the hosta is decorated with lavender flowers, towering on long peduncles.
The plant is quite winter-hardy, but it is important to provide it with partial shade so that the foliage retains a beautiful bluish tint.
The Victory variety does not burn in the sun (the height and width of the bush is about 1 m). Huge green leaves with a satin sheen and venation are decorated with a wide cream border, which becomes lighter over time. The American Host Growers Association recognized Victory as the best host of 2015, and in 2017 the variety was awarded the Benedict Garden Performance gold medal.
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DISEASES AND PESTS OF THESE FLOWERS AND FIGHTING THEM
Picking up new plants at the beginning of the season in flower shops and garden centers, we, unfortunately, often forget that most diseases enter our garden with planting material. In order not to receive a bonus in the form of a serious illness along with a new plant, examine your future acquisitions with passion - by the appearance of the seedling, you can understand whether the plant is healthy.
For herbaceous perennials, root rot is especially dangerous. With soft bacterial rot caused by a bacterium of the genus Ervinia, the roots, bulbs, rhizomes, stem bases turn yellow and rot, the affected tissues soften, and a sharp unpleasant odor appears.
In bulbous bacterial rot manifests itself from the side of the bottom and is a secondary infection.
after damage by an onion mite. That is, such a disease serves as evidence that a pest is almost certainly present in the planting material. Usually soft bacterial rot affects hyacinths, tulips, dahlias, daylilies and irises. Moreover, in irises, the symptoms of the disease (yellowing and softening of the rhizome) are already noticeable during planting, and in the summer the rot lesions are already obvious - fans that have rotted at the base begin to fall.
Root rot can occur in a latent form, and only as the parasitic fungus develops, it manifests itself with certain symptoms. Sometimes the rot develops very slowly, but the plants are depressed and bloom weakly, and the leaves in the lower and middle parts of the stem turn brown along the central vein or petiole.
Reproduction of plants affected by root rot always leads to further spread of pathogenic microorganisms.
Gray rot, which affects all above-ground parts of the plant, is the most common disease of all herbaceous perennials. Most often, it reminds of itself in rainy cool years. The formation of brown blurry spots, smoky-gray sporulation of the fungus, drying buds and shoots, the formation of small dark sclerotia are typical signs of the disease. The causative agent of the disease can be fungi of different species of the genus Botrytis. For example, in iris, botrytis convolute causes gray rot, and in tulips, botrytis tulipa.
Each pathogen infects a certain plant and is introduced with the planting material of this particular plant. In the future, harmful microorganisms multiply, infect neighboring plants of this genus, and accumulate in the soil and plant debris. Quite often, gray rot is found on pion planting material - bushes or delenka.
Sometimes on the leaves, stems, scales of the bulbs you can see raids of various colors. Most often, powdery mildew and rust are to blame for their formation, less often - transferorosis, or downy mildew. All powdery mildew pathogens are also “highly specialized” and
plants of only one genus are affected (for example, powdery mildew from monarda cannot spread to phloxes). And the diseased plants that we bring and plant in the garden serve as a source of infection.
The first sign of the disease is a white, and later grayish bloom on the upper side of the leaf. After some time, the mycelium becomes darker, numerous fruiting bodies are formed in it. The leaves dry up prematurely. With a strong spread of powdery mildew, not only foliage is affected, but also stems, peduncles and buds. The causative agents of the disease are able to persist in plant debris.
Rust is found on many plants. Some types of the causative agent of the disease can develop on one host, others - on several. For example, a fungus that causes peony rust overwinters on Scotch pine, and in the spring “moves” to pion plantings.
The disease appears on the underside of the leaves as pustules that are first bright orange and then darken.
The causative agents of leaf spot are fungi, by the names of which the types of the disease are called. For example, septoria, phyllostic, ascochitosis and other types of spotting are known. Each crop has its own spotting fungus. Depending on it, the spots on the leaves can be very diverse - rounded, angular, single or numerous, have a different color.
Leaf spots, like powdery mildew and rust, do not kill plants, but spoil their appearance and weaken them, causing premature loss of leaves.
MEASURES TO COMBAT
Of course, you need to refrain from acquiring obviously infected plants. But if they have already entered your garden, and besides, you are not ready to part with them, then timely treatments for diseases will help to save them.
Against leaf spots in spring, it is recommended to spray the plants with a Bordeaux mixture.
If necessary, the treatment is repeated in summer and autumn.
Against powdery mildew (at the first sign), copper sulfate, colloidal sulfur are effective.
In case of rot, it is useful to pickle bulbs before planting in a solution of a fungicidal preparation. The same remedy is recommended to be used at the first manifestations of gray rot on plants.
To stop the spread of soft bacterial rot, cleaning the rotting areas to a clean tissue, followed by cauterization with a solution of potassium permanganate, will help.
Tall herbaceous perennials, increasing their impressive volume and mass during the growing season, are able to change the space of the garden and play a variety of roles in it. Often giant perennials serve as the background of the composition. Here they can create a dense green curtain, and in late summer add color with their blooms. For example, ashen vernia will complement the composition with a bright purple tone, dense paniculate inflorescences of the Alpine mountaineer will provide a pure white color, vines can spice up the background with grayish-pink, bright purple or red-violet.
If you need to quickly create volume in the garden, then perennials are the best fit, capable of growing an impressive bush in the first half of summer and maintaining their decorative effect throughout the season. Such plants include reeds, meadowsweet, vass-leaves, rhubarb.
Set the rhythm in an extended mixborder, holding a high-rise accent, can be perennials with high, strong stems - volzhanka, aconites, mordovniki, makleya. For a seasonal hedge that masks certain parts of the garden, dense curtains of veronicastrum virgin, black cohosh, polymorphic mountaineer, and elecampane are good.
GIANT FLOWERS AND OTHER PLANTS IN THE GARDEN – TIPS AND REVIEWS
GIANT FLOWERS IN THE GARDEN – TIPS OF A LANDSCAPE DESIGNER
Tall plants attract with their majestic appearance, large, often textured leaves and striking flowering. They can easily decorate any corner of the garden if the appropriate conditions are selected. Landscape designer from Minsk Chatyapa CHEREPKO will talk about popular types and ideas for arranging giant plants on a site.
Plants are planted so that it is convenient to approach them. They should not make it difficult to move around the site. Create an opportunity to admire the plantings from different, even the most remote places of the territory. More often in gardens there are two types of flower beds: all-round or limited visibility.
Flowerbeds with an all-round view can be round, oval, square or rectangular. What they have in common is the ability to approach from any direction. In such flower beds, contrary to popular belief, it is better not to plant tall plants in the center, because during the season they manage to grow noticeably, which upsets the proportions of the flower bed and interferes with the growth of neighboring, especially slow-growing, crops.
Place in a flowerbed
It is better to plant giants at the edge of the flowerbed, choosing the most distant part from the place of the main contemplation of the mixborder. If the flower garden is large, then it is permissible to duplicate the plantings on its other distant side. In this case, there are two design methods: choose plants that are identical in appearance and color, or that are contrasting in appearance and color scheme.
Flower beds with limited visibility are often laid out along buildings and fences, so it is possible to care for them only from a certain side. Here, the largest and tallest plants are planted right next to the building. In front of them are cascaded smaller and shorter plants. It is permissible to plant plants by grouping them by color or creating a flower mix.
Flower beds with a limited view are sometimes a better option than a circular one, since they allow you to see all the plants and their colors at the same time, without changing position.
Single landing is also a fairly common option. They choose a place, for example, in the middle of the lawn, I encourage you! soil and plant 3-5 specimens of one or more species. In this case, you need to think about protection against mowing in advance. By the way, mowed grass will serve as an excellent mulch for plants.
When selecting crops for such plantings, you need to take into account that plants should not easily reproduce by self-sowing, so as not to litter the garden.
In Europe, large-mera trees are often planted behind a bench for rest.
In this case, the flowers protect the person sitting from the wind and have natural support, which helps to avoid the need for a garter. This composition turns out to be practical and cozy.
Most large trees need staking or support, timely watering and fertilizing, and mulching the soil.
If yellowed, broken leaves or stems or fading inflorescences appear, remove them immediately.
Many plants grow over time. To avoid a quick takeover of the territory, when planting, special borders or lawn strips with a width of 20 cm are dug in.
|Delphinium||For planting, choose a protected, elevated place on the eastern side of the site.|
|palmcrist||Annual, grown only through seedlings. Loves watering and loose, nutritious soil|
|Buzulnik||Moisture-loving, it is useful to spray the bush in the evening|
|Amaranth||Propagates quickly by self-sowing, loves open sunny places|
|Phloxes||In one flowerbed it is better to combine varieties with different flower colors|
|Heliopsis||If you pinch the tops, the bush will actively branch and bloom more abundantly.|
|Giant lilies||Planted so that the lower part of their stem is in partial shade for the first half of the day, and the rest of the time is illuminated by the sun.|
|Daylilies||For constant abundant flowering, every 5 years in early spring or early autumn, the plants are divided and replanted|
|Hosts||A good option for decorating a flower garden is made from only host giants of different varieties|
|Stockrose||If you pinch the tops before flowering, many additional side shoots with flower stalks will form.|
|Cereals (reed grass, miscanthus, etc.)||It is better not to prune plants in autumn. This way they will overwinter better and serve as decoration for the site during the cold season.|
Reference by topic: Plants with large and even huge leaves - photos, names and descriptions
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