What to do in the flower garden in June - the necessary and mandatory work!
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"BUSINESS" JUNE FOR THE FLOWER BOARD
June has come - colorful - there is no end to work, ”says folk wisdom. But it’s true, the beginning of summer is an active time for gardening.
Sowing and transplanting flowers in June
There is still time to sow in the open ground the seeds of the one-and two-year-olds you like (tagetes, calendula, aster, mallow, foxglove, daisy, etc.).
After the return frosts have left, plant the seedlings remaining in the house in the flower beds. In order for the grown seedlings to take root better and not get burned, shade them at first, and also remove the buds, otherwise the plants will spend their energy on flowering to the detriment of growing roots.
Timely watering
Water the plants regularly with slightly warm settled water, in hot weather twice a day - in the morning and in the evening. Do not use cold water - it can damage the root system.
Do not forget that flowering bulbs also need watering, because it is at this time that they have flower buds for the next season.
Caring for peonies
The flowering of peonies will be especially lush and fragrant if, during the budding period, the plants are fed with a mixture of 50 g of superphosphate and 25 g of potassium sulfate per 1 sq.m.
When the buds open, cut them according to the rules, leaving at least 3-4 leaves from the base of the shoot. This will allow the bush to save strength for further flowering.
Do not forget to install special supports that will hold large and heavy flowers upright.
After flowering, peonies need to be watered all season until the end of August. During this period, the flower buds of the next year are laid.
Important Nutrition
To feed garden flowers in June, prepare a herbal infusion (suitable for gout, nettle, quinoa, wood lice, etc.). Grind the aerial part of the plants, fill with water (1:10) and let it brew for 2 weeks, stirring regularly. Leftover bread, jam, or any EM preparation can be added to the herbal mixture. Ready-made fertilizer is fed in its pure form or diluted with water (1:10). Young and weakened specimens are watered once every 10 days, and adults and healthy ones once every 2-3 weeks.
For roses, you can prepare the following mixture: dilute 10 kg of mullein in 1 liters of water, add 15 g of ammonium nitrate and potassium sulfate, as well as 25 g of superphosphate. The resulting fertilizer is enough for 4-5 bushes. For rhizomatous perennials, make the solution less saturated. Dilute 1 kg of mullein in 15 liters of water, add 20 g of ammonium nitrate and superphosphate, and 15 g of potassium salt.
hedge trimming
At the beginning of summer, hedges have already managed to build up a good green mass, so it's time to cut them, giving the crops the desired shape with a brush cutter or electric shears. It would be useful to feed the shrubs after shearing with complex mineral fertilizer and weed out the weeds.
Lawn care
The lawn is also constantly in need of care. Mowing, watering, and fertilizing will help keep your green lawn looking tidy for years to come. Be sure to cut it and fertilize it so that the grass does not lose its rich green color. Feed the lawn with a complex mineral fertilizer with a predominance of nitrogen, and preferably with a specialized one (for example, Kemira Lawn).
JUNE TROUBLE OF THE FLOWER
So the time has come when the garden appears in all its glory - it is full of greenery and endows with bright colors of flowers. In order to keep the beautiful appearance of plants longer, it is important to constantly take care of them.
CUTTING
In shrubs that have faded in late spring or early summer (deutsia, kerria, forsythia, weigela, three-lobed almonds, Japanese quince, early-flowering spireas - Vangutta, Thunberg, crenate, etc.), wilted inflorescence brushes, weak and thin branches are removed, and also, about a third of the old shoots, which are already unproductive, are cut to the ground.
Cut wild shoots from grafted roses and lilacs.
Remove wilted flowers from daffodils and tulips.
GARTER
In June, high-growing annual and perennial plants are tied up, including | vines. If necessary, install strong supports.
digging
Overgrown for 3-5 years, clumps of small-bulbous (scilla, crocus, snowdrop, muscari, etc.), as well as daffodils and botanical tulips, are dug up after flowering, when their foliage turns yellow. Fritillaries - only after complete drying of the foliage. Varietal tulips and hyacinths need annual digging. Otherwise, this will affect the quality of flowering.
The bulbs are dug up, diseased, soft and damaged specimens are discarded, the rest are dried well. Before laying in storage, they are heated for a couple of months at a temperature of + 23-25 degrees. Then store in a dry, dark, well-ventilated area.
Empty spaces in the flower beds can be filled with ever-flowering or tuberous begonias, fuchsias, pelargoniums or other annuals.
FIGHT PESTS
The invasion of insects weakens the plant, inhibits its development and flowering. Biological preparations (Fitoverm, Bitoxibacillin, Boverin, etc.) or herbal infusions from dandelion, wormwood, yarrow and other plants will help to prevent and control at the initial stage of the lesion. With more extensive damage by pests, it is better to use chemical agents: Aktar, Iskra, Inta-Vir.
SPRAYING
In wet weather, garden plants are often affected by various fungal diseases: rot, powdery mildew, black spot. For prevention, flowers are sprayed a couple of times a month with biopreparations that are safe for humans and animals (Fitosporin-M, Sporobacterin, Fitolavin, Bakto-fit, FitoHelp). Weeds are pulled out in time to increase ventilation between specimens.
WATERING
In hot, dry weather, plants need additional moisture. They are watered in the evening with slightly warm settled water.
DRAWING
From the middle of the month, perennial flowers (phlox, aquilegia, lupins, peonies) and ornamental shrubs (hydrangeas, mock oranges, spireas, honeysuckle) begin to be cut. Cut shoots are most often rooted in water or rooted in a light substrate or vermiculite, choosing a shady place for the cuttings and building a greenhouse.
© Author: Irina CHUDAEVA, lead. scientific collaborator Institute of Naturopathy, experienced florist, Moscow
Reference by topic: June: work in the garden, garden, flower garden - what you must do!
JUNE IN THE FLOWER - VIDEO
© Author: Irina CHUDAEVA, lead. scientific collaborator Institute of Naturopathy, experienced florist, Moscow
Below other entries on the topic "Dacha and garden - with their own hands"
- Gardener's memo: processing, spraying the garden in early spring
- Care for berry bushes during the year
- Sowing flowers for seedlings in January-February
- What to do in the flower garden in October - important work!
- Care for irises - calendar
- December in the garden: whitewashing, pest control, etc.
- Garden in winter: the most important thing to care for! (councils of the agricultural sciences)
- Work in the garden from early to mid-spring
- Trimming gooseberries and currants in October (Leningrad region)
- Grapes in June: what needs to be done
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Scheme for dahlias
Many flower growers prefer to plant dahlias in early summer. Choose a wind-sheltered and well-lit area with nutrient soil. Do not plant dahlias in a place where asters have previously grown or plants that have been affected by fungal diseases. Be sure to adhere to this scheme: plant dahlias of undersized varieties at a distance of 0,5 m, and leave 1 m between tall ones.
Clematis: pruning and top dressing
Clematis in June are actively growing. To form a bush, remove all weak shoots, and lift the strong ones onto supports. Just remember that clematis have fairly brittle shoots, so tie them up carefully. As soon as budding begins, feed the plants with mullein infusion (1:10), adding 150 g of wood ash to Yule. Irrigation rate - 1 liter of the composition under the bush.
Take care of your gladiolus
Do not forget to often loosen and weed the soil under the gladioli. To stimulate growth during the formation of the fourth, and then the sixth leaf, feed the plants with a solution of nitroammophoska (1 tbsp per bucket of water is the norm per 1 sq.m).