Tomatoes and cucumbers in a greenhouse - what kind of care is needed immediately after planting?
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TOMATOES AND CUCUMBERS IN THE GREENHOUSE - CARE AFTER SOWING
Even unheated greenhouses make it possible to extend the period of consumption of heat-loving fruit vegetables up to 5-6 months instead of 2-3. And to increase their productivity and prevent the occurrence of diseases, proper care after planting and proper formation of bushes will help.
TOMATOES IN THE GREENHOUSE BETTER NOT TO Pamper
Depending on the weather, tomatoes take root for 7-10 days. Care at this time is to loosen the soil. Watering and fertilizing plants begin when the tomatoes start to grow. The water poured into the holes during planting is quite enough for the normal rooting of seedlings. And a slight limitation with watering only activates the further development of the soil by the roots. It should act throughout the first half of the growing season until the fruit sets on the first brush. Further watering is recommended once every 7-10 days based on the following norms: before flowering - 4 l / sq.m, during flowering and fruit formation - 12 l / sq.m.
Finding out if there is enough moisture in the soil is easy. It is necessary to take a handful of earth from a depth of 10-15 cm and squeeze it in the palm of your hand. If the lump has not broken up, there is enough moisture. Decayed - needs watering. The water used for irrigation must be at least 22°C.
You should not rush and spud tomatoes during this period. In this case, the bottom of the stem serves as a guideline: if it has acquired a purple hue and the beginnings of roots (white tubercles) have appeared on it, it is time to do this. In the absence of white tubercles, hilling will block the access of air to existing roots, and tomatoes may stop growing for a while.
Approximately two weeks after the first hilling, the situation will repeat itself, then the plants are hilled a second time. Any hilling of tomatoes is carried out after watering or top dressing with necessarily moist soil.
The first top dressing after planting in the ground is given to tomatoes to help them adapt to new conditions and stimulate them to further balanced development. It is carried out only after the plants start to grow.
An example diagram is as follows. If humus and nitrogen fertilizers were not applied when preparing the soil in the greenhouse, then for the first feeding they take 1 liter of mullein, herbal infusion or 0 liters of chicken manure, half a glass of ash and 5 tbsp. spoons of superphosphate. With a good filling with organic matter, a solution is prepared from any complex fertilizer (such as azofoska) with an equal content of macroelements (1 tablespoon per 5 liters of water) and enriched with microelements. Consumption rate - 1 liters for each plant.
The second top dressing is carried out during mass flowering, it is necessary for the formation of the ovary. If during the first one nitrogen fertilizers were used to accelerate the growth of green mass, then this time special emphasis is placed on potash top dressing, for which 1 tbsp. a spoonful of potassium nitrate, 2 tbsp. tablespoons of superphosphate or 15 g of potassium monophosphate are dissolved in 10 liters of water. Consumption rate - 1 liter per bush.
For the first time, pinching is advisable to combine with tying plants to supports or trellis. When tied to a trellis, one end of the twine is wrapped around the stem at a height of 7-10 cm and tied with a sliding loop. It will stretch as the stem thickens. The second end is thrown over the wire and tied with the same knot, leaving a small loop. This allows the loop to move freely along the twine when it needs to be loosened in order to wrap it around the growing stem once again. This should be done at least once a week, and if possible, more often. The length of the twine should be 60-70 cm longer than the distance from the soil to the wire.
In order for the pollination of tomatoes to be successful, the wind must constantly walk around the greenhouse, and in the heat, shading may also be required. During the mass flowering of tomato bushes in the morning, it is advisable to gently shake them or tap with a stick on the racks to which they are tied.
See also: Growing cucumbers and tomatoes in the greenhouse and open field: planting and care from A to Z
CUCUMBERS: WATERING IS COMBINED WITH MULCHING
It is customary to plant seedlings of cucumbers in a greenhouse at the age of 20-25 days. By this time, they should have time to form 3-5 true leaves. After 3-4 days, the cucumbers are tied to the trellis with twine with a free, non-tightening stem and even a slightly sagging loop. As the cucumber grows, it is formed into one stem, which is regularly wrapped around the twine. You can put cucumbers on a special grid, fixing it on the upper profile of the greenhouse.
Since parthenocarpic hybrids that do not require pollination are most often grown in greenhouses, it is advisable to form them in order to get the maximum yield. Most a popular way to form cucumbers is the “inverted herringbone”:
- the first 4 nodes are blinding: they remove everything - both fruits and side shoots;
- in the next 4 sinuses, lateral shoots are removed and, if the bundle ovary, all cucumbers, except for one. Thus, in the axils of the leaves, during these four nodes, one cucumber and one leaf remain;
- further, in 4 nodes, only side shoots are removed in each leaf axil. The main ovaries remain, including as many cucumbers as there are, and a leaf;
- then the formation can be stopped, allowing the cucumber to grow freely.
Unlike tomatoes, cucumbers cannot be kept on dry rations, you can be left without a crop - both flowers and ovaries will fall off. In hot sunny weather, one cucumber bush needs up to 3 liters of water per day. While it is gaining strength, it is better to water it in the morning, and during flowering and fruiting - in the evening. And always only warm, sun-warmed water. Do not refuse watering on a cloudy day, just slightly reduce the rate.
They begin to feed the cucumbers only after they noticeably start to grow, about 2 weeks after planting the seedlings: 2 tbsp. spoons of double superphosphate, 1 tbsp. spoon of potassium sulfate and 1 tbsp. a spoonful of urea per 10 liters of water. Consumption rate - 1 liter per 1 plant.
During mass flowering - 0 l of liquid mullein, 5 tbsp. a spoonful of nitrophoska, 1 cup of ash (or 1 tablespoons of potassium sulfate), 2 g of boric acid and 0 g of manganese sulfate per 5 liters of water. Mix everything thoroughly. Consumption rate - 0 liters per 3 sq.m.
During the mass education of Zelentsy - 2 tbsp. spoons of potassium nitrate, 5 tbsp. tablespoons of urea and 1 cup of ash per 10 liters of water.
Reference by topic: Growing cucumbers in a greenhouse: soil, planting seedlings, shaping and top dressing
© Author: Natalia Solonovich, agronomist Photo by the author
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