TYPES OF GARDEN-GARDEN IRRIGATION: WHAT FOR WHAT?

In different periods of growth and in soils of different composition, vegetables need different amounts of water. Let's talk about the rules for watering the garden in the summer.

WATER TYPES

Planting irrigation - carried out when planting seedlings and sowing seeds

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All watering - to restore the moisture reserve in the soil

Top dressing watering - for the application of fertilizers in liquid form

Refreshing watering - to humidify the air and lower the temperature in the greenhouse (usually in these cases they pour cold water on the paths)

Counterfrost watering - under the root with the threat of night frosts

LEI, WATER DO NOT Pity!

Pour 0-4 liters of water under each bush of tomatoes, peppers and eggplants before flowering when watering. With the advent of the first flower brush, increase the fluid flow to 0 liters per plant, and when the fruits begin to form - up to 5-0 liters.

Cucumbers need more moisture. Before flowering, pour 0-5 liters under a bush, before fruit formation - 0 liter, after - 7-1 liters. This watering is most often enough for two days, but in the heat you may need daily watering. Keep in mind that sandy, sandy and light loamy soils dry out faster than loamy and clay soils, so you will have to water the plants on them more often.

IF THERE IS NO FORCE FOR IRRIGATION

Summer residents who come to the site once a week can often only smile sadly in response to the recommendation to water the garden every other day. Fortunately, there is an inexpensive way out for them. Paint the big tank black. Install it on a slight elevation so that the water can flow out and spread through the pipes. By the way, if possible, put the tank under the drainpipe so that rainwater from the roof flows into it. If you are afraid that the holes in the tubes will become clogged with debris, then place the cheapest filter between the tank outlet tap and the tap that connects the tubes.

The tubes themselves are easiest to make from droppers sold at a pharmacy. An irrigation hose is less suitable for these purposes. Once every two weeks, add mineral fertilizers to the water in the tank (for best effect, alternate them as indicated in the table).

WATER AND FERTILIZE AT THE SAME TIME

Irrigation number	Additive to 100 l water
First	200-300 g of potassium or calcium nitrate
Second	300-350 g of potassium monophosphate
The third	200-250 g of magnesium sulfate (magnesium sulfate)
Fourth	50-100 g of water-soluble iron sulfate, manganese, zinc, copper and boric acid
Fifth	300 g potassium monophosphate

SAVE TABLE AS A MEMO

We also recommend reading: How to properly water a flower garden

COLD WATER: IS IT WORTH THE RISK OF IRRIGATION?

Many summer residents are wondering if it is possible to water the garden with cold water from a pump. In the event that we are talking about watering during the day from a conventional hose, the option is not the best. Ice water can stress plants, causing them to stun. But when using drip irrigation through dropper tubes, the option of connecting to a column is quite acceptable. Cold water coming from the tube into the ground will have time to warm up a little and will not cause shock to the plants. If you already have to water the garden with cold water from a hose, then do it in the early morning hours. As a rule, at night in the middle lane it is noticeably colder than during the day, because by morning the earth cools down, and when watering with cold water, temperature drops will not be so noticeable.

PROBLEMS WITH WATERING

Quite often, gardeners complain that when watering, water literally drains from the garden and accumulates on the paths. The reason for this is too dry and compacted soil. To avoid this, thoroughly loosen the soil before watering, break the soil crust, and only then start watering.

Mulch also helps keep water in the garden. It is best to mulch the beds with grass or hay. This is organic matter, which over the summer will have time to decompose and give nutrients to vegetables in your beds. In addition, mulch prevents the earth from becoming too compact. However, it is important to ensure that the soil under it is not too waterlogged, otherwise vegetable crops can get sick.

TIP: In order not to pour water in vain, conduct a simple test. Squeeze a handful of earth in your palm: if a lump has not formed, the soil is too dry.

WHAT SHOULD BE THE HUMIDITY IN THE GREENHOUSE

Optimum air humidity for:

tomatoes - 60-70%;
cucumbers - 75-85%;
peppers - 65-75%;

eggplant - 50-60%. High humidity increases the risk of fungal diseases and condensation in the greenhouse. In addition, when the humidity is too high, pollen sticks together on the flowers and the ovaries simply do not appear. With low humidity, young leaves and flowers are the first to suffer. The first dry up from the tip, and the second crumble.

If the greenhouse is too humid, thoroughly ventilate the room, weed the beds and mulch the soil with peat or sand.

If it is very dry, pour plenty of warm water over the soil. If the ground is wet and the air is dry, water the paths. During the day, this method also helps to fight the heat.

GROUPS OF VEGETABLES BY REQUIREMENTS FOR IRRIGATION

First: all kinds of cabbage, cucumber, lettuce, radish, celery, spinach. Plants with large leaves that evaporate water quickly. They need fractional but frequent watering.

Second: tomato, carrot, watermelon. Plants with a developed root system, capable of extracting water at a depth of up to 80 cm. They consume moisture sparingly, do not require too frequent watering.

Third: all kinds of onions, garlic. Water is poorly produced, but it is used sparingly. They need watering only in the first half of growth.

Fourth: beets, radishes, turnips, potatoes. They absorb water well and respond to irrigation. But with excessive moisture, they lose their taste and can burst.

Reference by topic: How to water the garden correctly and how to water it WRONG?