Leek loves deep planting hilling and does not like acidic soils!
WHITE LEEK - MY SECRETS
Five years ago, I did not hear at all that such a leek existed. Today it is my favorite culture.
Delicate and sweet in taste, leek is especially good in winter salads.
I will not say that it is easy to grow it, in comparison with garlic and onions, he has to pay more attention. But he's worth it.
I grow leeks only through seedlings, I sow seeds in March. In May, I dig deep into the bed and bring in the ashes: the leek does not like acidic soils.
Then I make two deep grooves on it.
And in the grooves with a thick stick, which I hammer into the ground with a hammer to a depth of 10 cm, there are holes in which I plant seedlings at a distance of 20 cm from each other. I water the holes immediately, the water immediately tightens them with earth.
When the formation of the fan begins, I proceed to hilling the leek. I do this five times over the summer, because the most valuable thing in a leek is a bleached leg.
I dig up part of the crop with roots and store it in the barn, and leave the second in the garden until April. Before the frosts come, I spud the leek one more time.
Reference by topic: Leek seedlings - sowing in spring and winter cleaning
LEEKS FOR SEEDLINGS - VIDEO
© Author: Svetlana Ryabtseva, Nizhny Novgorod region.
Below other entries on the topic "Dacha and garden - with their own hands"
- Onion sets - planting before winter in autumn
- White onions - varieties, cultivation, planting and care
- Leek loves deep planting hilling and does not like acidic soils!
- The secret of large onions is whether you need unripe manure, complex fertilizers, frequent watering and weeds
- Growing annual onions - nigella. Planting and care - my advice (Omsk)
- How to sow onions before winter?
- Hercules onions - my reviews
- Onion turnip in one season (Pskov)
- Growing onions in the Sverdlovsk region (yellow and red) planting and care
- Cultivation of old varieties of onions
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Leek: to grow a “leg”
The most important thing when growing leeks is not to skimp on land. In addition to planting its seedlings in trenches, which I then fill in as they grow, I also hill them up twice.
The first time I hill up the leeks is in mid-August, the second time – a month before harvesting. I only carry out hilling with damp soil, so if there is no rain, I make sure to water it. First, I loosen the soil and rake it towards the onion so that grooves are formed. I pour water into them, and when it is absorbed, I fill the grooves with soil brought from a free garden bed.
In addition, in August I shorten the lower leaves, otherwise they will fall and break off, and in September I trim all the old outer ones, otherwise the trunks will begin to bend under their weight. In October, before harvesting, I cut off all the leaves, leaving only a fan 25-30 cm long.
For winter storage, I harvest leeks in early November. I dig it up entirely, do not shake off the roots, but place the plants tightly in boxes directly with the soil. Then I bring them into a polycarbonate greenhouse. During storage, the “leg” of the leek is additionally bleached and even increases in size.
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They say that you can no longer care for leeks in the summer. I did just that last year, but I grew leeks with thin stems. So, it was still wrong, or is there another reason?
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Summer leek care is a must! Otherwise, a good harvest and thick legs cannot be obtained.
This onion is planted in May with seedlings with deepening, so that the bleached false stems - legs - are longer. At the same time, its powerful root system needs aeration, so the soil must be constantly loosened. From the middle of the end of July, the plants are spudded, again - to get white legs. The resulting grooves are used for irrigation. In dry weather, this is done once a week, the water consumption is 20-25 l / sq. m. If you use mulch, you can loosen less often.
At the end of July, the leek has the most growth, so top dressing will be required with a complete mineral fertilizer with a predominance of nitrogen or a mixture of ammonium nitrate and nitrophoska (1: 1) at 30-40 g / sq. m.