LET'S "MARCH" THE WOUNDS ON THE TREE?

Damage to the bark of fruit trees by rodents, frost or sunlight can lead to the death of the tree. Having many years of experience in gardening, I want to share a method for treating such wounds.

If the wound does not exceed 10x3 cm, I clean it, disinfect it with a weak solution of iron sulfate (300 g per 10 liters of water), wrap it tightly with polyethylene, under which along the damage on both sides I place disinfected and cut along the branches of the same tree, bark upwards - then the film does not touch bare wood, and in other places it fits tightly.

ALL YOU NEED FOR THIS ARTICLE IS HERE >>>

In addition, at a distance of 5-10 mm from the edges of the wounds (only on apple and pear trees!) I make longitudinal cuts in the bark with a sharp knife (such furrowing accelerates the healing of wounds) and apply garden putty to the film.

Since any damage to the tree heals better in the dark, I loosely wrap paper (or matting, roofing felt) over the film and tightly tie the winding to the standard.

ADDED BY A SPECIALIST

This method is good for treating small wounds. If the frost holes are large, film alone will not do. In this case, I thoroughly clean the wound from dead tissue and disinfect it with a 5% solution of iron (or 3% copper) sulfate. From below and above the damage, I use a sharp knife to remove the top layer of bark so that only the inner living layer remains (it is greenish-light).

This cannot be done on a young tree! Using a chisel, I align the long side edges of the wound in a straight line, removing any irregularities. From the same tree I cut inserts (bridges) from annual shoots (the length of the insert should be 5-6 cm longer than the frost hole). In the upper and lower parts of the wound, I make vertical cuts in the bark with a knife so that the width of the tongue between the two cuts is equal to the thickness of the inserted shoot.

Then, using the bone of a budding knife, I lift the tabs one by one, place the inserts under them and nail each with two or three thin nails (the caps should not reach 3-5 mm to the bark of the insert, so that after a year they can be easily pulled out).

I nail the tongue of bark tightly, and in order for the nail to press it against the insert, I put a button on it in advance with the tip removed. I wrap a tree trunk with a “darned” frost patch in two or three layers of film, tie it with twine and shade it with roofing felt. In the summer, I remove the film from the wound and leave the shading for another week. By this time, the inserts are already firmly fused with the wood.

Reference by topic: How to fix a hollow in a tree with your own hands - photo

HOW TO CURE A WOUND ON A FRUIT TREE - VIDEO ADVICE

How to cure RASU on a fruit tree. Healing tree balm recipe

ORDER QUALITY AND CHEAP SEEDS AND OTHER PRODUCTS FOR HOME AND COTTAGE. PRICES ARE BOTTLE. CHECKED! JUST LOOK FOR YOURSELF AND BE AMAZED. THERE ARE REVIEWS. GO >>>

Below other entries on the topic "Dacha and garden - with their own hands"

Subscribe to updates in our groups and share.

Let's be friends!

Dacha with their own hands > Dacha with their own hands > How to cure wounds (cracks, frost holes) on a tree - my unusual way

2 Review (s)

Tatyana Vladimirovna, Ivanovo
21/09/2023 (13:29) #

On the trunks of the Lyubskaya and Chocolate cherries, the bark is splitting. The gap is deep - about 1 cm, long. Appeared last year. I covered it with varnish, but there was no result. Chocolate has already died, Lyubskaya is still alive. It blooms and bears fruit. But I'm afraid that a strong wind will break it. How can I help the cherry?

- OOO "Sad"
  21/09/2023 (13:30) #
  
  Dear Tatyana Vladimirovna! Cherries, especially varietal ones, often cannot withstand our weather. If one variety is dead and the other is alive, then Lyubskaya is suitable for your zone. Look for not just a varnish on sale, but a varnish with additives of wound-healing medicines. Personally, I stimulate the cherry’s immunity by spraying it with whey diluted 5 times in early spring.