Contents ✓

✓ IN OCTOBER WE BRING FLOWERS INTO THE HOUSE
✓ PLANTING PERENNIAL FLOWERS IN OCTOBER
✓ WE CARE FOR THE LAWN
✓ WORK ON FLOWER BEDS AND FLOWER GARDENS – TIPS AND REVIEWS
✓ WHAT TO DO IN A FLOWER GARDEN IN OCTOBER - VIDEO

IMPORTANT THINGS IN OCTOBER IN THE FLOWER GARDEN

In the first half of October, with dry and warm weather, there is plenty to do in the garden. Besides, there is still time to do what you didn’t have time to do in September.

Before the 20th of October, it is advisable to dig up and store tubers, bulbs and rhizomes of heat-loving perennials: gladioli, dahlias, cannas, begonias.

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First, remove the stems from the gladioli, leaving “stumps” of about 5 cm. Dry the bulbs outside in sunny weather for a couple of days, then for about a month indoors, and then put them in storage in a cool place (not lower than +5 degrees).

Before digging, cut off the stems of dahlias, leaving “stumps” 10-15 cm high. Clean the dug up roots from the soil, wash them for 10-15 minutes. process in a solution of potassium permanganate. Then we shorten the remaining stems to 7-10 cm. We dry the planting material for 1-2 days in a cool room, and then store it at a temperature of +3-5 degrees, covered with dry sand or sawdust.

Without clearing the soil, we dry the begonia tubers for several days at a temperature of + 15-20 degrees. Then we put it in a box with sand and store it at a low positive temperature, moistening the substrate if necessary.

We dig up the cannes, trying to keep a lump of earth on the rhizomes. We cut off the stems, leaving “stumps” of 15-20 cm. We store the planting material in a dry, frost-free basement. After digging, do not forget to sort and reject diseased and damaged specimens.

Autumn work in the flower garden What to do in flower beds in October

IN OCTOBER WE BRING FLOWERS INTO THE HOUSE

We take the remaining potted plants from the garden. We wash the pets from dust and spray them with Fitoverm to prevent the appearance of pests (according to the instructions).

Crops that require cold wintering (fuchsia, hydrangea, etc.), if possible, are left on the veranda or glassed-in loggia, where the temperature in winter does not drop below +3-6 degrees. Or we put it in a dark, frost-free basement. We water rarely and sparingly, so as to only slightly moisten the lump of earth.

PLANTING PERENNIAL FLOWERS IN OCTOBER

Before the onset of stable subzero temperatures, we plant spring bulbs (tulips, hyacinths, daffodils), as well as herbaceous perennials (peonies, phlox, irises, etc.). If the weather remains warm (above + 15 degrees), it is necessary to postpone the procedure to a later date. Otherwise, the flowers will begin to sprout. You should hurry up with planting small bulbs and daffodils.

They are planted earlier than tulips, until the second half of October. Species that we dig up annually should be spaced at a distance equal to one or two bulb diameters. For others, we leave a larger gap between copies. The soil in which we plant bulbs must be moist, because the plants need time to take root before the onset of frost.

WE CARE FOR THE LAWN

At the end of the season, be sure to remove fallen leaves and, if necessary, mow tall grass.

The first days of the month are the last opportunity to sow lawn grass seeds on areas of green cover trampled over the summer.

WORK ON FLOWER BEDS AND FLOWER GARDENS – TIPS AND REVIEWS

OCTOBER CONCERNS OF THE FLOWER

To create a comfortable winter “rest” for plants, it is important to do everything on time: prune as necessary, hill up, cover or mulch. And there is no less flower work: remove leaves, collect seeds, dig up rhizomes of medicinal herbs

COLLECTION

We continue to remove fallen leaves from the area. To avoid infection with various diseases and pests, it is better to burn the foliage.

MULCHING

Perennials and biennials that do not need shelter, mulch with compost or humus with a layer of 3-5 cm. Planting bulbous and small bulbous plants with dry peat 5-7 cm thick.

SOIL PREPARATION

At the end of October - beginning of Novemberwe will create a place for winter sowing of cold-resistant summer seeds (calendula, cornflower, iberis, eschscholzia, etc.). When digging we add compost, humus, and 1-2 tbsp per 3 sq.m. superphosphate and 1 - 1 tbsp. potassium sulfate.

At the same time, we are preparing areas for spring planting of begonia tubers, lily bulbs and gladioli. Add clay to sandy soil, and sand and peat to clayey soil. We fill the planting holes with a nutrient mixture consisting of garden soil, fresh manure, peat, leaf litter (2:1:1:0) with the addition of superphosphate.

CUTTING AND COVERING

Using sharp pruning shears, we remove faded stems of herbaceous perennials that have lost their decorative properties.

У clematis, blooming on the shoots of the current year, in mid-October-early November we cut out the vines to the very ground, and for those blooming on last year’s growths, we shorten them by a third and remove the immature ones. We tie the remaining lashes and carefully twist them, attaching them to the ground. When frost sets in, cover with agrofibre.

From mid-October to mid-November, we shorten the shoots of roses to ripened wood, and remove unripe branches. After this, spray the bushes with a solution of copper or iron sulfate (100 g and 300 g per 10 liters of water, respectively) and hill up. If the weather is warm, you should wait until the November cold to use winter shelter.

At the end of October or beginning of November, we cut out weak and damaged branches of tree and paniculate hydrangeas, and also remove the aboveground part of the irises, leaving “stumps” up to 10-15 cm in height.

After the first autumn frosts (in October-November), we prune the astilbes.

COLLECTION OF SEEDS

In dry weather, we continue collecting seeds from species and varietal plants. Don't forget to dry them well before storing.

PREPARATION OF RHOZHOES

If medicinal herbs grow on the site (valerian officinalis, knotweed, burnet, male shieldweed, chicory), in October and early November is the time to prepare their rhizomes for the preparation of traditional medicine. We dig up roots in any weather. Wash and dry well. Store in a dry place.

FLOWER DIARY – OCTOBER

FLOWERS IN THE GARDEN

In October you can harvest rose cuttings for winter grafting. During their scheduled pruning, cut several cuttings from the well-ripened part of the shoots, place them in a bag with sphagnum moss and store them in the vegetable compartment of the refrigerator.

To avoid fungal infection, trim the peony stems to a stump. Spray the trunk circle with Fundazol solution and mulch with peat.

If there is no precipitation for a long time, before the onset of stable frosts, water all conifers at the root. This will protect them from drying out in winter.

From the first ten days of October, begin to build an air-dry shelter for roses. It is important to start installing arcs before the first frost, before the ground freezes.

Prune clematis

Remove the clematis from the supports. lay them on a piece of plywood, trim them depending on whether they bloom on the shoots of the current or last year.

For clematis of the first group, trim the broken, damaged, and immature parts of the shoots that bloom on last year's shoots. For representatives of the second group (Florida, woolly), when pruning, shorten the shoots by a third. For clematis that bloom on the current year's shoots, trim the vines to 20 cm. After trimming, cover the plants with dry litter or spruce branches.

Digging up tuberous begonia

After the first autumn frosts, when the stems and leaves of the begonias die, start digging up the tubers. Cut the above-ground part to 2-3 cm with pruning shears. Dig up the tubers along with a lump of earth. Without clearing them of adhering soil, dry them for a week at a temperature of 18°C. then carefully place it in a single layer in a box, covering it with sand or peat. Store the tubers until February at low above-zero temperatures (not higher than 1012°C) and 80% humidity. If necessary, moisten the sand so that the tubers do not dry out. You can also store them in the vegetable compartment of the refrigerator, sprinkled with dry sawdust.

We send dahlias for storage

After October frosts, when the soil temperature drops to 8°C. start digging up dahlias. Trim the stems, leaving stumps 15-20 cm high. Carefully dig around the bush on all sides, stepping back 20 cm from the stems. Pry up the root tubers, being careful not to break them. Then rinse under running water, dry, divide into small sections so that each of them has the remainder of the stem. Treat the cuttings with a fungicide solution. Dry for three weeks.

Store planting material in wooden or plastic boxes, sprinkled with dry soil, sand, and dry moss. For high-quality storage of dahlias, you can prepare a clay mash: 1/3 bucket of dry clay, 1 tbsp. dilute sifted wood ash in water to the consistency of thick sour cream. Dip the tubers into the mash, then dry. When the dahlias are crusty, wrap the tubers in newspaper and place them in plastic bags with holes for ventilation.

The optimal temperature for storing dahlias in the basement is 37°C. Humidity – no more than 70-75%.

and cannes

In October, after the first night frosts (-1-2°C). start digging canals.

Clear the rhizomes from the soil, rinse, remove small roots, as well as diseased, rotten parts of the plant.

Before storing, the tubers must be treated with any fungicide, then dried and only then sent for storage.

Until February, store the rhizomes in a cool place (5°C) in damp peat, sand or sawdust. Optimal humidity is 8-70%.

During storage, you should not over-moisten the rhizome, otherwise you will stimulate the buds to awaken too early. Overwatering will also promote the development of root rot.

We care for the lawn

Don't forget to mow your lawn periodically. The grass should be 7-9 cm high under the snow.

5 days after the last mowing, apply phosphorus-potassium fertilizers (5-10 g phosphorus and 20-30 g potash per 1 sq.m.). then water well.

If bald spots appear on the lawn, fill them with a mixture of peat, humus and sand (1:2:4), then sow lawn grass.

Planting hyacinths

Hyacinths are the last of the bulbous flowers to be planted. This is done no earlier than the first ten days of October, and if autumn is warm, then planting begins in the second ten days. Planting hyacinths too early is undesirable: the bulbs may prematurely send out their flower shoots and begin to grow, unable to withstand frost. But even if planted too late, the plants will not have time to take root properly before the onset of cold weather.

If possible, choose medium-sized bulbs for planting; very large ones are best used for forcing. The bulbs should have 7-10 accumulation scales, several superficial ones and a clearly formed bud. It has been noticed that the most abundant flowering is produced by bulbs with a wide bottom.

In the middle zone, hyacinths will feel best in high beds (15-20 cm high, 90-100 cm wide).

October is the ideal time for planting lilies of the valley. The best place for these plants is in the sparse shade of subtrees or shrubs. The soil for lilies of the valley needs light, neutral or slightly acidified. When digging, do not forget to add a bucket of humus or compost and 100 g of superphosphate per 1 sq.m.

FLOWERS IN THE HOUSE

With the onset of autumn, do not over-water your indoor plants; water them moderately so as not to cause rotting of the root system. If possible, water in the morning. so that the flowers completely absorb moisture during the day. Drain the excess from the pan in a timely manner.

Cyperus and selaginella will need constantly moist soil. Moderate watering after the top layer dries - abutilon, aeschynanthus. ardisia, citrus.

Minimal watering will be required for bougainvillea, Syrian hibiscus, and brugmansia. The soil should be almost dry.

check plants for pests. At the first signs of damage, treat the plants with Fitoverm or Inta-Vir.

Send gloxinias with tubers 2 cm or more in diameter for wintering at the end of September - beginning of October. By this time, the plants have usually finished flowering and are ready for a period of dormancy. Place the pots in a cool (about 15°C) place. Once a month, lightly moisten the soil to prevent the tubers from drying out. Leave first-year plants grown from seeds and babies to overwinter on a warm windowsill so that they grow tubers.

So that after autumn pruning of bougainvillea. myrtle, laurel, oleander, rosemary, weak shoots did not appear, reduce the temperature of their content.

Heat-loving plants (hibiscus, codiaum, balsam, dracaena) are illuminated on cloudy days and in the evening.

It is better not to trim citrus fruits. The more leaves they have, the better they will survive the winter.

Do not cut deciduous plants (figs, large-leaved hydrangea) in the fall: rooted cuttings shed their leaves and usually do not survive until spring.

Autumn is the time to harvest rhizomes (rhizomes) from Achimenes. The dormant period for plants begins 8-9 months after planting rhizomes. By this time, Achimenes stops flowering, the leaves turn massively yellow and dry out in the lower part of the stems. In some, you can find that in the root zone young rhizomes of a new crop emerge to the surface of the soil. Transfer the achimenes to a cool place and leave without watering until the shoots are completely dry. Then remove the rhizomes from the soil.

Before storing, treat them in a fungicide solution and dry for 3 hours in a dark place. Store rhizomes in Ziploc bags. sprinkled with vermiculite. Varieties prone to early germination can be stored in the refrigerator, while varieties that germinate slowly can be stored in a box at room temperature. The rest period of Achimenes lasts 4-XNUMX months.

Reference by topic: October in the flower garden - what can and should be done: memo