WHAT BEDS ARE BETTER TO MAKE IN THE VEGETABLE GARDEN?
No matter how advanced modern technologies are, there is always room for experimentation and comparison. We offer talk about beds, their types, pros and cons.
High — raised above the ground by 30-80 cm, ideal for rainy regions
Beds-box - high beds framed by a border
Beds-pit — up to 20 cm deep, suitable for growing pumpkins and zucchini
Beds-trenches - up to 40 cm deep, needed by “glutton” plants (watermelons, melons, pumpkins, cucumbers)
Narrow - 40-50 cm wide, with passages between them 1 m
NARROW BEDS – FOR GREENHOUSES, WIDE – FOR OPEN GROUND
Narrow beds, popular in organic farming, are best suited for greenhouses. My friends, having read about the benefits of narrow beds in a greenhouse, decided to try them this year. Everything would have been very good, but they made a mistake - they sowed the seeds not along the edges of such a bed, but in the center. What's the result? The harvest was lower than expected because a lot of free space was lost. Although the grown vegetables were larger, tastier, and the plants themselves did not get sick and were even less damaged by pests.
Of course, more plants could be grown in wider beds. However, compacting the plantings would not necessarily benefit the harvest, because this would greatly reduce the feeding area of each bush. In addition, on wide beds in a greenhouse and greenhouse, plants may not have enough light, they begin to shade each other. Therefore, it is better to leave wide beds for open ground and do not forget to regularly feed vegetables so that all crops have enough nutrition.
BOX BEDS: COMPLEX, BUT EFFECTIVE
On one of the forums I read a story about how an inexperienced gardener created a box bed, but did not put any organic filling in it, apparently deciding that all the “magic” was in the box itself. What's the result? Sad. In empty box beds, like flower pots, the soil quickly dried out in the heat, the plants overheated, died, and the roots were literally burned.
However, even from such an irregular bed-box, the summer resident managed to harvest. The plants developed especially well in cool weather, because at this time the soil in the box warmed up faster than in ordinary beds, and the vegetables developed more actively.
Bottom line: there should always be organic matter at the base of the box bed, and it’s better if it’s long-lasting:
food waste, branches, leaves, grass without roots and seeds. The very essence of a high bed-box is precisely to form a nutrient layer through the gradual decomposition of the organic matter located at the base, thanks to which the plants will develop.
Of course, you shouldn’t forget about watering. In such beds, even prepared according to the rules, the soil still overheats faster, and you have to water more often, keeping the soil slightly moist.
To grow vegetables together in one bed, it is enough to choose plants that feel comfortable together. They should have similar requirements for watering, growth temperature, and treatments for diseases and pests. Ideally, they should ripen at the same time (see the table for examples of such crops).
Reference by topic: How to properly prepare the beds for re-planting
COMPATIBILITY OF CROPS IN ONE BED
|Onions, potatoes, root vegetables
|Dill, hyssop, lettuce, potatoes
|Celery, mustard, onion, garlic
|Beans, beans, corn, cabbage, horseradish, onions
|Tomato, pepper, aubergine
|Leeks, carrots, beets, strawberries, lettuce, garden savory
|Cabbage, tomato, pepper
|Onions, peas, lettuce
|Radish, onion, carrot, beet
|Carrot, tomato, asparagus
|Celery, onion, carrot
|Root vegetables, spinach
|Cucumber, pumpkin, tomato
|Cucumber, carrot, radish
|Beans, onions, cabbage, lettuce
|Cucumber, tomato, zucchini
|Cabbage, beans, asparagus, dill, onion
|Tomato, cauliflower, kohlrabi, zucchini
|Root vegetables, cabbage, cucumber, corn, potatoes, tomato, pumpkin, basil
SAVE THE MEMORIAL PICTURE
GENERAL RULES FOR HARVEST BEDS
When choosing the shape and type of bed, consider the following points.
Any garden bed you choose should be easy to care for. Therefore, giving preference to non-traditional shapes (circle, triangle, square), avoid large sizes (no more than 1 × 1 m). The width of any bed should be such that it is convenient to weed it from the path.
If the bed is multi-tiered, try to unfold it so that
the sun illuminated all plants for the same amount of time during the day.
In arid regions, form sunken beds (a spade's depth), and in more humid climates, raise them at least 15 cm above the level of the paths.
Before you start forming the beds, add a bucket of humus and 1 tsp per 1 sq.m of soil. nitroammofoski.
Alexander ABUSHKEVICH. agronomist, Gorki
Reference by topic: What is the difference between high, deep and warm beds - features and design
WHAT BEDS ARE BETTER - VIDEO
© Author: Nikolai CHROMOV, Cand. of sciences
Below other entries on the topic "Dacha and garden - with their own hands"
- High bed with your own hands: step by step
- DIY multi-layer bed with ... apples
- Bed-boxes with own hands
- Narrow ridges by the method Mitlajdera - my responses
- How to make and arrange beds in the garden
- Sloping warm garden with your hands - a scheme and design
- Warm bed for tomato seedlings - we prepare in advance! (results and feedback on the experiment)
- Plan of beds + crop rotation + detailed memo to the summer resident and gardener
- How to make a proper wet patch in the country
- Vegetable garden on high beds with own hands
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