“SOIL IRRIGATION” WITH YOUR OWN HANDS – MY WAY
The lack of water on the site is a problem familiar to many. Once, faced with an acute shortage of it, I remembered a childhood hobby when girls made “secrets” by burying flowers or candy wrappers under glass. I created approximately the same “secret” for planting my seedlings
In one area where I am experimenting with garden crops, there is water only in a deep puddle, which we call a well, and only in the spring. The rest of the time we use imported bottles. It is a luxury for watering, and is used only as a last resort - to save and resuscitate recently planted plants.
Once in the garden I urgently needed to plant strawberries, but it was hot, the soil was as dry as gunpowder to the touch of a shovel. That’s when I thought that I could bury a “secret” under the seedlings.
В put a plastic bowl in a deep hole. Filled her up water, put twigs and dry stems on top of the bowl as a lath, cutting them to size so they don't fall into the bowl. I placed the root ball of the plant on this crate and covered it with soil.
What is the essence of the reception?
A bowl of water under the seedling serves as an insurance and emergency supply of moisture. New roots grow into it and into the surrounding moist soil. And if there is no rainfall or watering for a long time, and the soil dries out, then the seedling can easily use “NZ” and grow roots, leaves, and take root. One hundred percent results are practically guaranteed.
The roots, of course, will not penetrate the plastic; they will grow, bypassing the obstacle in the form of a bowl, just as they bypass stones.
What needs to be taken into account with such underground irrigation?
When planting, the level of the bulk soil should be slightly below the level of the relief.
The planted plant still needs to be nurtured as much as possible.
It is necessary to cut off some of the leaves on the seedling to reduce the evaporation of moisture before the roots grow.
The soil must be covered with spunbond or freshly cut weeds.
The summer before last, I planted a lot of strawberry bushes in July, in the very heat, a month earlier than the usual August transplant, and last summer the first-year plants produced a decent harvest.
If heavy and prolonged rains begin, then in order to avoid soaking the seedlings, each bowl should be pierced with a pitchfork. Without removing it from the ground. The bowl fulfilled its mission, it helped the sprouts take root, and now stagnation of water under the roots is undesirable. Piercing the soil for seedlings is safe: excess water will flow away, and an air cavity will now form under the roots, which is useful precisely when there is excess moisture.
After punching holes in the bowl, roots will grow through the resulting holes.
The container does not interfere with the bushes
My bushes “on a bowl” are no different from ordinary ones, they overwintered perfectly, and, as you can see, the dishes do not in the least interfere with the development of the roots.
Sea buckthorn, planted using the method described above this year at the beginning of July, when there was no rain for a month, has taken root well and has already given new growth.
I recommend this method of insuring the planting of any seedlings to everyone. By the way, it was suggested to me by N.I. Kurdyumov; in one of his books he described a method for germinating plant cuttings placed in a deeply buried bottle of water.
SOMETIMES I DON'T WATER AT ALL. IF THE EARTH IS VERY MOISTURIZED IN SPRING AND THE WEATHER IS CLOUDY, I PLANT THE SEEDLINGS IN THE BEDS WITHOUT THE SMALLEST WATERING. THIS MAY SEEM INCREDIBLE, BUT IT'S A FACT! I MAKE THE HOLES DEEP AND WIDE ENOUGH SO THAT THE ROOT BALL OF THE SEEDLING DOCKS INTO THE VERY FIRST LEAVES. I THROW THE EARTH INTO THE HOLE ON THE ROOT BALL NOT TO THE VERY TOP, BUT SO THAT A SMALL DEPTH REMAINS. AND IN NO EVENT DO I COMPACT THE SOIL IN THE DEEP. THEN THE ROOTS WILL HAVE ENOUGH AIR AND SPACE TO GROW. AND THERE IS ENOUGH MOISTURE IN THE SOIL.
How else to save moisture in the area
1. Timely cutting of weeds, which can be left right there as mulch, is very helpful. The benefit is double: weeds do not suck precious moisture from the soil. and the mulch made from them, even if only a little, protects it from drying out and overheating. You can also throw freshly picked and mown weeds onto the garden bed. By withering themselves, they will prevent the seedlings from withering and give them time to take root well.
By the way, the best mulch is manure, which is also the best fertilizer. For the most heat-loving crops - watermelons and melons - the best was the usual transparent greenhouse film.
2. In dry weather, the beds can be covered with non-woven material, even the densest, without arcs, directly over the plants. It will retain moisture and protect against pests. The plants will not be crushed by the load. Cabbage and cucumbers especially like this shelter; even in extreme heat, the foliage does not wither.
3. When planting seedlings and seedlings, be sure to cover them with covering material. And it’s better to do this in the evening, so that the plants have time to take root before the next hot day.
Reference by topic: Drip irrigation from 5 liter plastic bottles with their own hands
WATERING FROM BOTTLES DIRECTLY TO THE ROOTS – MORE VIDEO TO NOTE
© Author: Yuri Shelaev, Balashikha
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