Recent Comments gardeners and gardeners:

  • OOO "Sad" on Hydrangea Diseases - Description— Это признак мучнистой росы. По мере развития мицелий гриба уплотняется и налет становится бурым. Пораженные растения могут сильно ослабевать. Более устойчива к этому заболеванию Г. дуболистная менее — Гортензия крупнолистная. Поможет справиться с мучнистой росой многократная обработка препаратами (на выбор) : «Ракурс», «Топаз», «Чистоцвет», «Агролекарь», «Полар-50», «Баксис» (не менее 4 повторов за сезон, раз в 7дней). Мучнисторосяные грибы предпочитают поражать слегка подвядшие листья, клетки которых потеряли тургор. Поэтому регулярные поливы в засушливый период повышают устойчивость этой влаголюбивой культуры к заболеванию. Симптомы некоторых заболеваний появляются достаточно поздно, иногда только в середине лета. Поэтому лечение фунгицидами не всегда дает быстрые результаты. В следующем году начинайте профилактические обработки в конце мая-начале июня—до появления первых признаков заболевания. Профилактика Для нормального развития гортензии необходимы регулярные подкормки в течение сезона. Периодическая обрезка растений, чтобы обеспечить свободную циркуляцию воздуха и просыхание после дождей. Своевременное удаление пораженных листьев/соцветий с куста, сбор всех опавших и их уничтожение. Тщательное рыхление почвы осенью (можно совмещать с внесением фосфорно-калийных удобрений пролонгированного действия). Надежда ФЛЁСС
  • Irina on Hydrangea Diseases - DescriptionПодскажите, отчего на листьях гортензии может образовываться белый налет? Как помочь растению?
  • OOO "Sad" on What roses to plant? Rosewood Tips— У меня розы из супермаркета растут в кашпо по 3 года без пересадки. Осенью коротко обрезаю их и ставлю в теплицу. Накрываю несколькими слоями белого нетканого материала (плотность 60 г/м). Ранней весной укрытие снимаю, верхний слой почвы в емкостях меняю на биогумус, периодически поливаю и в мае выношу розы на веранду уже пышно цветущими. Все новоприобретенные розы в горшочках пересаживаю дома в кашпо из ротанга (прочного материала), внутри которого вставлено пластиковое — обязательно с отверстиями для слива. Кладу дренаж — слой крупного керамзита. Готовлю простую почвосмесь из органического грунта на основе торфа и вермикулита с добавлением биогумуса (по инструкции). В воду для полива полезно добавлять биологический фунгицид. Я использую состав с сенной палочкой (Bacillus subtilis) и азотфиксирующими бактериями. Они быстро доставляют растению питание в доступном виде. В то время как комплексные минеральные удобрения усваиваются только на 30% — оставшаяся часть со временем закисляет почву, и растениям некомфортно. Ставлю пересаженные розы либо в беседку, либо в полутень для адаптации — под прямыми лучами солнца рискуют получить ожоги. К слову Древесный уголь в составе органики позволяет растениям справляться с патогенной микрофлорой. На нем поселяются полезные бактерии, задерживается питание, которое розы при необходимости могут использовать в любой момент. Марина РЫКАЛИНА, опытный цветовод, садовый блогер, г. Москва
  • Elena on What roses to plant? Rosewood TipsЭтим летом выращивали на улице розы в кашпо. Подскажите, как их лучше сохранить до весны? Подходят ли розы из обычных супермаркетов (в горшках) для уличного содержания?
  • OOO "Sad" on Thyme (photo) use, properties, species and application— Семена тимьяна прорастают очень быстро и дружно, но в сентябре лучше не высевать. Растения не успеют хорошо укорениться, приготовиться к зиме и, скорее всего, погибнут. В средней полосе оптимально сеять тимьян в феврале на рассаду в пар-нички и выращивать на подоконнике. Растение предпочитает легкую, хорошо дренированную почву со щелочной или нейтральной реакцией. Подойдет грунт для выращивания кактусов или универсальный (с нейтральным рН), смешанный с прокаленным песком в соотношении 1:1. Почву перед посадкой желательно пролить биологическим фунгицидом, например препаратом «Трихо-дермин», для профилактики черной ножки. Семена тимьяна очень мелкие, поэтому при посеве не заглубляйте более чем на 0, 5 см. Можно распределить по влажной поверхности, не засыпая грунтом, или «припорошить» тонким слоем песка. После этого накройте пленкой или крышкой от домашнего парничка и поставьте в тепло. Как только появятся первые всходы (на 7-10-й день), тепличку откройте и держите ее в хорошо освещенном месте. Поливайте сеянцы умеренно, только когда верхний слой почвы начинает подсыхать. Лучше — из пульверизатора, чтобы не повредить всходы. Пикировать рассаду следует в стадии 3-4 пар настоящих листьев. Но не затягивайте: тимьян развивается быстро, и длинные побеги начинают путаться. В открытый грунт рассаду высаживают, когда минует угроза возвратных заморозков. И только после закалки: в течение недели выносите на солнце, начиная с небольшого промежутка времени и постепенно его увеличивая.
  • Svetlana on Thyme (photo) use, properties, species and applicationI bought thyme (thyme) seeds. Tell me, is it possible to sow them now, in the fall? And what is the best way to do it?
  • OOO "Sad" on Features of caring for barberry - pests, feeding and reproduction- The plant is accustomed to the level of light in the house. Apparently, they did not quite correctly accustom him to the sun on the street: the barberry received burns and threw off the foliage. Now he has grown a new one, adapted to active radiation (similarly, leaves change from seedlings when moving to open ground). Henceforth, it is worth more smoothly accustoming plants to outdoor conditions: to take out immediately for a short time and gradually increase it. The hardening process will take longer.
  • Olga on Features of caring for barberry - pests, feeding and reproductionIn early spring, I planted an Orange Sunrise barberry in the house, it was cool outside. I poured "Radifarm", and the bush began to grow. Gradually accustomed him to the sun. The barberry got stronger, and I planted it in the open ground. But the leaves began to curl (photo 1). I did not find any pests or diseases. Over time, all the leaves dried out. I had to cut branches at a height of 10 cm, and the barberry began to produce new ones (photo 2).
  • OOO "Sad" on Features of caring for barberry - pests, feeding and reproduction— Все барбарисы обладают хорошей устойчивостью к вредителям и болезням. Судя по фото, причиной пожелтения листьев мог стать недостаток влаги в почве. Взрослые кусты с сильно развитой корневой системой засухоустойчивы и редко страдают от этого. У молодых же корни еще не могут обеспечить полноценное поступление воды. И в засуху им требуется полив. Причина может быть и в переувлажнении почвы, которое барбарис переносит также плохо. Например, если куст растет в низине или углублении, при частых поливах и 1 осадках будет скапливаться вода. Рекомендую выкопать растение и изучить состояние почвенного кома и корней, чтобы понять: стоит его пересадить на место повыше либо изменить режим полива.
  • Olga Grigorchuk, Kharkiv region on Features of caring for barberry - pests, feeding and reproductionCarmen's barberry planted last spring. This summer, the leaves began to turn pale and dry out. Just in case, I sprayed it twice from the spider mite. Did not help. What could be the cause of the problem?
  • OOO "Sad" on Action (photo) Planting and caring for the plant— В начале сентября можно внести калийное удобрение (10-15 г на растение, рассыпать по влажной почве) или «угостить» настоем золы. Этого вполне достаточно. В конце месяца я обычно окучиваю основание дейции рыхлым грунтом на высоту 15-20 см и мульчирую соломой. Если ожидаются дожди, прикрываю на время (до возвращения сухой погоды) этот участок водонепроницаемой пленкой, чтобы не переувлажнилось корневище. В ноябре оборачиваю крону в мешковину. Некоторые садоводы пригибают ветки кустарника к земле и пришпиливают. При наступлении устойчивых минусовых температур укрывают хвойными лапками (для снегозадержания), сверху — спанбондом (можно даже положить еще кусок рубероида или шифера). Зимой регулярно подбрасывают на кустики снег.
  • Наталья Синица on Action (photo) Planting and caring for the plantВ этом году дейция порадовала меня шикарным цветением. Чем лучше подкормить кустарник осенью, чтобы он восполнил силы к следующему сезону? Обязательно ли растение ежегодно утеплять на зиму?
  • OOO "Sad" on Yellow spots on hosts - what are they and what to do?— Если рисунок (в виде пятен, как от расплывшихся чернил, колец или штриховки) нехарактерен для сорта, а листовые пластины в итоге деформируются, обезвоживаются, уплотняются, наверняка это редкий вирус X (HVX). Он передается хостам через зараженные семена, попадает в раны с инструментов при делении куста, а также переносится сосущими насекомыми. Вылечить такие экземпляры не получится. Выкопайте и сожгите пораженные кусты, почву продезинфицируйте раствором формалина (по инструкции). Хосты в слишком сыром месте может поражать корневая гниль. Сначала листовые пластинки светлеют, затем подгнивают розетки на уровне почвы, ткани размягчаются, корневая шейка и корни погибают, листья отваливаются. Сильно поврежденные растения тоже придется уничтожить. Лучше, конечно, на этом участке выкопать все хосты, тщательно осмотреть и вырезать больные участки до здоровой ткани. Затем присыпать углем или обработать «Фундазолом», «Скором» (по инструкции). При посадке на новом полутенистом месте добавляйте в ямки песок.
  • Marina Kononova, Smolensk on Yellow spots on hosts - what are they and what to do?On the leaves of some, the host noticed a mosaic pattern, incomprehensible long strokes. A neighbor said that this is a virus and such plants need to be urgently got rid of. And on one of the bushes, the leaves, although without strokes, but sharply fell off. There is a low place, after the rain there is water for a long time. Advise what to do.
  • OOO "Sad" on Rhododendrons in the Moscow region - varieties, planting and care— Такое происходит вследствие большого количества осадков и тепла — с этим ничего не поделаешь. У моих растений (на некоторых кустах) тоже встречаются побеги со вторичным ростом. Поэтому и подкармливаю сейчас (в середине сентября) щедро сульфатом калия все свои рододендроны: и молодые, и старые. Это подготовит их к зиме и немного сдвинет кислотно-щелочной баланс почвы в кислую сторону. Так есть шанс, что побеги успеют вызреть до серьезных холодов. Светлана МОВЧАН,
  • Angelina Sholokhova on Rhododendrons in the Moscow region - varieties, planting and careЧто делать с полураскрывшимися почками у рододендронов? Видимо, они собрались цвести повторно. Причем приоткрыты и цветочные почки следующего года, и листовые. Что делать с этими «торопыгами»?
  • OOO "Sad" on Rhododendrons in the Moscow region - varieties, planting and care— С таким хорошим ростом отправляйте сейчас в сад: прикопайте вместе с емкостью, не рассаживая, чтобы перед зимовкой не повредить корешки. Сверху прикройте нетканым материалом. До весны оставьте там же. Единственное — в конце октября поверх сеянцев нужно соорудить воздушно-сухое укрытие. Например, над ними можно установить перевернутый пластиковый ящик или большой технический горшок, сверху укрытый куском плотного лутрасила (спанбонда). Чтобы ткань не снесло, придавите камешками. У меня сеянцы первого года, а порой и двух-трехлетки (в зависимости от размеров сеянцев) зимуют в горшках, прикопанных в высоком месте сада, где весной не затапливает.
  • Жанна Киселева, г. Санкт-Петербург on Rhododendrons in the Moscow region - varieties, planting and careВысеяла в этом году семена рододендрона Шлиппенбаха. Некоторые сеянцы выросли до 20 см. Рискнуть и высадить их сейчас в открытый грунт или лучше первый год передержать в подвале?
  • OOO "Sad" on White flowers (photo) - planting and care— Я бы подержала в условиях парника (если он есть) либо на холодной веранде на окне. Вегетация не должна быть долгой — обычно не более месяца. А после увядания листьев прикопала бы в саду и замульчировала слоем листвы, хвои или торфа.
  • Алла Третьякова, г. Нижний Новгород on White flowers (photo) - planting and careВ начале лета посеяла в плош-ку свежесобранные семена белоцветника весеннего и прикопала в тени. И вот сейчас они проросли. Пока что я перенесла сеянцы в дом, но, что делать дальше, не знаю — на зиму отправить в погреб или оставить на улице?
  • OOO "Sad" on Planting crocus bulbs for distillation— Если ваши крокусы высажены прошлой осенью после покупки, они могли быть «перегреты» при хранении, в результате чего погибли заложившиеся в луковицах цветки. В старых же посадках возможно чрезмерное уплотнение гнезд, требующее омолаживающего разделения. Сейчас, в сентябре, еще не поздно выкопать и рассадить переполненные «сообщества».
  • Вероника Денькевич on Planting crocus bulbs for distillationВесной крокусы на даче взошли хорошо, но цветков было очень мало. В чем причина такой неудачи?
  • OOO "Sad" on Summer feeding for gladioli— При работе с гладиолусами нет мелочей, иначе все усилия будут сведены к нулю. Работу начинаю в конце сентября и заканчиваю в первой декаде октября, но все зависит от погоды. Выкапываю садовыми вилами. Отмываю клубнелуковицы от земли. Обрезаю стебли, оставляя невысокие пеньки. Чтобы не перепутать сорта, складываю посадочный материал в разные емкости, снабженные бирками. В доме еще раз промываю и опускаю в некрепкий раствор марганцовки (или препарата «Максим», по инструкции) на 30 мин. После этого просушиваю. На следующий день еще раз проверяю клубнелуковицы, но уже более основательно. Все проблемные места отлично видны на поверхности, слегка окрашенной марганцовкой. Экземпляры даже с небольшими изъянами храню отдельно. Укладываю гладиолусы в картонные коробки без крышки и ставлю в кухне на шкафчики — там тепло и сухо. Отмечаю дату (через 30 дней), когда нужно убрать посадочный материал в прохладное место на зимнее хранение. У меня это — отапливаемая лоджия. КСТАТИ Я много экспериментировала, прежде чем пришла к выводу, что старую клубнелуковицу с корнями лучше удалять не сразу после выкопки, а через 1-2 недели. Подсохнув, она легко снимается, оставляя на луковице замещения (та, что сверху) чистое донце без зазубрин. Тянуть с этим до конца сушки тоже нет смысла. Кроющую чешую оставляю. Мария АНАШИНА, цветочный блогер.
  • Olga Drozd, Pskov on Summer feeding for gladioliLast year I was not able to save gladioli: many varietal bulbs got sick, and then did not germinate. I had to buy it. How not to lose planting material again? When should you dig up plants?
  • Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous) on Types of maple: ash leaved ash and other types of maples - planting and careВот уже много лет в моем саду растет привлекательный и не слишком громоздкий клен остролистный Глобозум (Acer platanoides Globosum). Летом он дает спасительную тень в зоне отдыха. Все домашние после тяжелых работ в огороде любят присесть здесь на лавочку, насладиться покоем и помечтать. Особенно красив этот уголок осенью, когда можно сколько угодно любоваться падающими желтыми или оранжевыми листьями. Неравнодушны к дереву и пернатые гости: в любую пору года они находят в густой кроне приют и спасение от ветра и дождя. Глобозум — это шаровидная форма К. остролистного. Обычно ее прививают на одноименный видовой клен. Эффектнее всего деревце смотрится на штамбе, у меня высота прививки — 2,5 м. Часто цветоводы в шутку называют такие экземпляры «чупа-чупсы». Крона Глобозума сохраняет свою компактную «шапочку» в течение всей жизни и не требует кардинальной стрижки. Но с возрастом становится шире и словно немного опускается вниз. В этом случае я обрезаю нижние ветви, чтобы не мешали ходьбе. В последние годы нахожу поддеревом самосев. Пока за молодой порослью наблюдаю — вряд ли она унаследует родительскую форму. Ведь размножить клен Глобозум можно только прививкой, выбрав ровное молодое деревце-подвой и профессионально проведя саму процедуру. А проще купить в садовом центре саженец уже готового «чупа-чупса». Ольга МАНУДИНА, коллекционер растений
  • Daria TARASOVA, landscape designer, Osa, Perm region on Autumn planting of tulip bulbs - according to all the rulesTulips are one of the most beautiful bulbous flowers. It is not difficult to plant them, however, in order to see tulip paradise in your own garden next spring, you need to follow some rules. When buying bulbs, choose only healthy ones, without mechanical damage, visible traces of disease and rot. I prefer to plant tulips in late September and early October, when the daytime air temperature drops to + 10 degrees, and the first morning frosts begin (very noticeable on the lawn). Usually, the plants root well before winter, grow back to varietal height in spring and bloom well. Tulips love the sun. In partial shade, they bloom later and the color of the petals is not so bright. I dig the selected area to a depth of 20 cm, remove the weeds. I mix the garden soil with rotted compost (1-2 buckets / sq. M) and autumn fertilizer (according to the instructions). Sand (2: 1) must be added to heavy loamy and dense soil, otherwise the bulbs may rot. Before planting, I carefully examine the bulbs, throw away small, damaged and diseased specimens. For the prevention of diseases, I soak the planting material for 1 hour in a fungicide solution, for example, "Maxima" (according to the instructions). You need to plant strictly vertically to a depth of three bulb sizes. I noticed that it is safer for onions on loam if under each one make a "bed" of a mixture of sand and sphagnum moss (1: 1). Tulips can grow in one place for 3 years, but it is better to dig them up (in June) and replant annually so that the flowers do not become smaller. Digging will help protect the bulbs from excess moisture.
  • Diana PROKOPOVA on Coreopsis whorled (photo) varieties, planting and careCoreopsis verticillata is a perennial for the garden without hassle. It is more durable than large-flowered. Flowering lasts from mid-summer for about 70 days. After the peduncles are cut off, the old bushes are planted (every 4-6 years), otherwise the plantings thicken so much that the root system turns into a dense ball with practically no earth. As a result, the shoots grow short, and the flowers become smaller. The place for it needs a sunny or light shade. The soil is better fertile, sufficiently moist, with good drainage. The heavier and more nutritious the soil, the less resilient the plant will be. Waterlogging in winter and early spring K. verticulata does not tolerate. In summer, in dry weather, he needs watering. It is also responsive to top dressing before flowering with full mineral fertilizer. Species forms and tall varieties (50-100 cm) can be used as a background for lower neighbors. Looks spectacular in a group planting on the lawn, next to mock-mushrooms and spireas, only you need to plant a flower on the south side of them. Low-growing varieties (30-40 cm) are good in the border and in groups in the foreground, suitable for planting in containers and balcony boxes with a depth of 20 cm. Geraniums, veronica, armeria and irises are suitable partners for them.
  • Galina on Dahlias - increasing the number of flowers and pinchingUsually, after cutting the aerial part of the dahlia tubers, I spud and leave it for about 2 weeks, so that more starch forms in them and the peel thickens. Then I dig it out, rinse it with water from a hose or rinse it in a barrel. I let it dry and then I divide it into parts. At each delenka, I leave a piece of the stem 1-1 cm high, because the dahlia buds are laid at its base. I write the number or name of the variety right on the tubers with a felt-tip pen. If there is not enough planting material, the cuttings can be covered with beaten egg white in 5 layers. Then put in boxes for storage in a cool place (for example, on a windowsill, near a balcony door or in a toilet, in a canvas bag suspended from a cold water pipe).
  • Gennady LITAVRIN, plant collector, Moscow on Dahlias - increasing the number of flowers and pinchingIn order for the dahlias to bloom longer, with early minor frosts I turn on the sprinkler for the night, although watering from a watering can over the leaves will also give some effect - the ice crust formed will save the plants from freezing. But, as soon as forecasts promise stronger and longer frosts, I start digging bushes. to Dahlias, "beaten" by frost, should not be left in the ground for more than two days, even if the heat returns, since water flows down the hollow stems into the root collar and the tubers can rot. In addition, when the temperature rises, dormant buds are activated and the plant will want to start growing again. Such planting material will be poorly stored, because the time of its awakening is next spring. I dig out the root tubers with a pitchfork, carefully prying it from all sides. After drying in the open air, I put it in boxes and put it in the cellar (store it at a temperature of + 2-5 degrees).
  • Maria ANASHINA on Propagation of petunia by cuttings propagationCutting and preserving petunias In winter, petunias can be stored in the room until spring as a mother plant - for further propagation in spring and early summer. But for this it is better to grow it from cuttings rooted in August-September. A light sandy-peat substrate (1: 2) is suitable for planting them. In May, plants can be transplanted into a flower garden, flowerpots or hanging baskets and cuttings can be cut. The main problem associated with the health of a flower in winter is powdery mildew. But this disease is a consequence of some oversights in agricultural technology (thickening, excess moisture, lack of air and light).
  • Tatiana SHUMOVSKAYA, biologist, St. Petersburg on Stcevola (photo) outdoor planting and careThe beauty scovola in the middle lane is grown as an annual. However, in spring it is not easy to find its seeds, so I advise you to keep young plants obtained from cuttings or mother bushes. You can cut both apical and stem cuttings. They root perfectly in a mini-greenhouse in any loose substrate (while maintaining a stable humidity) in a shaded place. Plants with formed roots are transferred to a room with good lighting and an air temperature of about + 10 degrees. Watering at this time should be scanty (do not allow the soil to dry out, keep it slightly damp). BTW In a similar way, you can root cuttings of kufei, coleus, balsam, tradescantia, but you do not need to cover pelargonium with anything to create a greenhouse effect. All these plants form roots in water as well. In winter, mothers are kept at + 12-15 degrees, good lighting and rare watering. Osteospermum, bacopa, etc. can be left in similar conditions.
  • Sergey KALYAKIN, landscape designer, Moscow on Plants repelling rodents - rats and miceIf mice and moles are found on the site, then the bulbous flowers are at risk of severe damage. Planting plants in a mesh metal container with a fine mesh will help protect from pests (many do it themselves from rolled construction mesh). "Shield" against moles is a plastic container that came with purchased perennial seedlings (unlike P9 pots, they can be planted not one at a time, but several bulbs at once). Additional advantages of using containers: facilitating garden logistics, reducing time and labor costs for digging bulbs, preventing bulb diseases due to annual soil changes, trouble-free planting in flower beds with perennials.
  • Elena KUZMINA, agronomist, St. Petersburg on Transplanting plants from the garden to home conditions before winterwith a fine autumn, the time for moving plants from the garden to a warmer place can be delayed. And here it is important not to be mistaken with the timing, so keep an eye on the weather and forecasts. Tropical species (fuchsias, abutilons, ficuses, dracaena) are taken into the house at the first forecasts of the night temperature + 5-7 degrees. Succulents, cacti, as well as citrus fruits, bougainvillea, jasmine, brugmansia can withstand + 3-5 degrees, but they need to be sent to the house before frost. Rosemary, cherry laurel, oleander, laurel, olives feel fine even at 0 degrees. Last of all, potted specimens of garden perennials are insulated right on the site (having previously compiled together). Preparation First, you need to cut off damaged and diseased shoots, as well as shorten the lianas. In palm trees, even drying leaves are not touched, and in oleander, a couple of the oldest branches are cut out. It is advisable to treat the crowns from pests. Collect debris from the surface of the substrate. Wash the outer sides of containers and pallets. Remember: plants cannot be immediately taken to permanent wintering places - they must be gradually adapted by first holding them in rooms that are intermediate in temperature, protected from rain and wind.
  • Nadezhda MARUEVA, Lugansk region, Yandex-Zen "Garden Paradise" on Daylily division and transplantation - personal experienceDon't rush to prune the daylilies! In the first half of September, handsome daylilies fade. And the bushes become unsightly, with dry lower leaves and protruding peduncles. I just want to cut off the aerial part at the root. Do not hurry! If it is warm and sunny outside, daylilies, after removing the foliage, will begin to grow green mass at an insane speed. But with a sharp cold snap with night frosts, the plants simply do not have time to reorganize for wintering and will die. Therefore, carry out a cardinal haircut later, when the temperature approaches 0 degrees. And in early September, for sanitary purposes, I remove faded flower stalks with a pruner (I do not break it out!). At the base of the bush, I remove all dry, diseased, damaged leaves. The tops can be trimmed with scissors, but no more than two-thirds of the total length. After that, I treat the planting with an insecticide and fungicide. And you definitely need to feed the daylilies. I'll tell you about my scheme. In early September, I give foliar feeding with Monopotassium phosphate (according to the instructions). A week later, I apply any granular complex fertilizer marked "Autumn" (I plant it only in wet soil to a depth of 7-10 cm) and water the soil again so that the dry fertilizer dissolves faster and starts "working".
  • Anna ROMANOVA, Orekhovo-Zuevo on Lilies of the valley (photo) - growing, planting and careIn September, it's time to plant lilies of the valley. These unpretentious flowers grow better in shade or partial shade, but they don't like it under trees. The width of the row spacings when planting rhizomes is kept at the level of 20-25 cm, the distance between plants is 3-4 cm, the planting depth is 2 cm from the sprout to the soil surface. Lilies of the valley prefer the land that is moist, rich in humus. Next to them in the spring I sow legume seeds to enrich the substrate with nitrogen. In September, the legumes are cut off, but the roots remain. Although lilies of the valley are frost-resistant, for the winter I lightly sprinkle them with fallen leaves as a safety net, which I carefully embed in the soil around the plantings in the spring.
  • OOO "Sad" on Grassy Hibiscus - Breeding (WAYS)- If we are talking about Syrian hibiscus, then in September it does not need to be cut. In the spring (in April) of next year, shorten the growth of the current year by a third. If there are old, sick, growing inside the crown, thickening, overgrown, slightly decorative branches, they must also be cut off. In a hybrid hibiscus, the aerial part dies off in autumn, and it is used to cover the rhizome wintering in the ground. Lyudmila ULEISKAYA, Cand. biol. sciences
  • Irina Volosyuk, Chelyabinsk on Grassy Hibiscus - Breeding (WAYS)I planted a hibiscus last year. Bloomed in September. How, then, can you save it? Is pruning necessary in the fall?
  • OOO "Sad" on Growing garlic - planting with whole heads and care (Moscow)- Most likely, the garlic is infected with bacteriosis. This disease affects the succulent tissue of winter garlic, resulting in brown and brown ulcers on the bare teeth. Infected teeth root poorly and overwinter poorly, garlic plantings are sparse, yield decreases, and the ends of the leaves turn yellow. In order for the garlic to be well stored, immediately after harvesting, you need to dry it in the sun for 10-12 days at a temperature of + 25 + 26 degrees, and then for 5 days - at a temperature of + 30 + 35 degrees, (you can heat the bath for this). Experience shows that with this disease, garlic is stored well under optimal conditions, there is no deterioration in taste. However, when using diseased teeth, you need to pickle them before planting in a solution of copper sulfate (1 tsp per 1 liter of water) or Zaslon (according to the instructions). You can try the second option: soak the teeth for 20-24 hours in a 0-1% solution of trace elements or slurry, diluting it with water (0:5).
  • Lyudmila Sorokina, Togliatti on Growing garlic - planting with whole heads and care (Moscow)Going through the harvested garlic, I found ulcers under the scales. In the summer, I fed it several times with potassium, superphosphate, ash, and spilled Fitosporin three times. The garlic grew perfectly, the feathers did not turn yellow. What is this disease? Can such garlic be stored?
  • OOO "Sad" on Spots on tomatoes - cladosporium and late blight: how to distinguish and cure- I do not recommend using vinegar in the fight against late blight: it is a rather aggressive agent that can destroy plants. And there are no other remedies that could completely cure the disease. Therefore, do not wait for the first signs of late blight to appear, but regularly treat the plantings with drugs against the disease or folk remedies. The first time is usually sprayed with preparations of contact action no later than 14 days after planting the seedlings. Then the bushes are treated with fungicides or biologicals every two weeks. Chemicals to combat late blight are no longer used 3 weeks before the expected harvest. At this time, you can use Eco-sil (15 drops per 3 liters of water), a solution of skim milk (100 ml per 1 liter of water) with the addition of one or two drops of iodine, a solution of whey (1 liters per 5 liters of water) with adding 10 tsp. iodine. In addition, Furacilin (1 tablets per 10 liters of water), as well as Trichopolum, Metronidazole (10 tablet per 1 liter of water) are popular among gardeners.
  • Anna Lavrik, Krasnodar on Spots on tomatoes - cladosporium and late blight: how to distinguish and cureFor many years it has not been possible to protect tomatoes from late blight. I tried to process both Ridomil and HOM - it does not help. As a physician, I know that fungal infections are afraid of acid. Maybe you can spray the diseased bushes with a vinegar solution? If so, how do you do it?
  • OOO "Sad" on Preservation of the yield of the potato variety you like - so that it does not degenerate- A similar phenomenon occurred in my summer cottage, and the first thought was that the plants were overfed. They were powerful; additional roots and stolons in the lower part of the stem were actively growing on them. Another possible cause is a viral infection. In any case, it is better not to use the tubers of such plants for planting.
  • Valentina Polovets on Preservation of the yield of the potato variety you like - so that it does not degenerateFor several years now, some potato bushes have been blooming profusely. They give too many tubers - 30-50 pieces each, but they come to the surface of the soil, grow small, like peas, turn green. What is the reason?
  • OOO "Sad" on Why are not cucumbers and cabbages tied?- Most likely, you got low-quality seeds. Perhaps with an admixture of some other variety or hybrid. There is another option: mainly female flowers are formed on hybrid cucumber plants, and to improve their fertilization, it is recommended to sow several varietal seeds, the plants from which will act as pollen donors. In this case, these bushes will not give a crop, but will help other plants to bear fruit.
  • Alevtina Chapik on Why are not cucumbers and cabbages tied?Cucumbers of the same variety (from one package) were grown in a greenhouse covered with spunbond. Of the 9 plants, 3 refused to set fruits (there were flowers, but they faded and fell off). Moreover, they grew in different parts of the greenhouse. There were no problems with the rest of the cucumbers, although she looked after all the same. Why did it happen?
  • Ravil on Rosehip cultivation in the Moscow region - varieties, planting and careI faced two problems and therefore really hope for your help. So, a few years ago I ordered a rosehip seedling from the nursery. It took root well and soon began to grow. Now it is already a large and beautiful bush. It blooms profusely all summer, the smell is simply wonderful, the fruits are round, large. But two years ago, in the middle of summer, I noticed that the leaves of the dog rose began to turn yellow and die off, and with them whole branches. I treated the bush with everything I could, cut out diseased branches - everything was in vain. And this disgrace continues to this day. My friend, an agronomist by profession, advised me to cut my ailing rose hips at the root and not plant this crop in this place anymore. But I would like to keep my handsome man, and preferably in the same place - at the porch of the country house. Or is my friend still right and the bush cannot be saved? Please advise what should I do? And the second problem concerns strawberries. I have been growing for many years a variety that remained from the previous owner. She did not know its name, but this "stranger" has powerful bushes and sweet berries. I ordered and planted the varieties Elsanto and Zenga-Zengana from the nursery. All new seedlings have taken root. But after that, the leaves on all three varieties began to become covered with rusty spots. And I can't do anything about it. I sprayed it against ticks, against various diseases - all to no avail. How can I cope with this scourge?
  • Anna on Processing black currants from pests - all without chemicals!On my currants, some red spots constantly appear throughout the summer, because of which the affected leaves curl up and dry out. And all this despite the fact that I regularly feed the bushes, mulch them, carry out sanitary pruning, and, of course, I process them with Bordeaux liquid three times during the growing season. What is my currant sick with and how to cure it?
  • Tatyana on Folk remedies for pests - proven methods from gardeners: collection 4I ask for advice from all caring summer residents. Who else can help in trouble if not experienced colleagues? Therefore, the only hope is for you, my dears. Here's the thing. In 2014, we purchased an old house with a plot and lived and gardened for four seasons without any problems. But once, with surprise, they found on the onions some unpleasant white thin worms about 1 cm long, which were sucked to the roots of plants in whole clusters. Naturally, because of this, the feathers of the onion began to turn yellow much earlier than necessary. But the saddest thing is that most of the harvest was lost. In 2019, there were no worms, because we treated the plantings with a solution of piperazine tablets three times. And they were glad that the onion was clean after that. However, it soon began to deteriorate anyway. Apparently, we bought the planting material infected with the fungus and did not warm it up, as it should, before planting. In 2020, the onions were excellent, since they were planted in place of the beans (and after harvesting them, siderat was sown in these beds in the fall). But what were these worms? Where did they come from? None of the agronomists could explain to us what kind of pests they are: some talk about a nematode, others deny it. The neighbors claim that although they do not know the names of these worms, they are well acquainted with them. They brought them along with the manure, and now the ground under the strawberries is always covered with straw, because these uninvited guests stick to ripe berries. And also, according to the assurances of neighbors, worms can spoil beets, young potatoes and carrots. In 2018, in a greenhouse with tomatoes on ripe fruits, strange holes began to appear around the stalks, as if someone had made them with a thick knitting needle. Moreover, only those tomatoes that grew on the uppermost tiers of tall bushes were damaged, i.e. under the very roof. We began to carefully examine the greenhouse and in one of the corners we found worms curled up in balls and basking in the sun. The next year, everything happened again. Who is making fun of our tomatoes? Are they worms too? And what can we do to prevent this from happening again? Last year, a story happened in another greenhouse: large white spots appeared on many fruits of sweet peppers. At first I thought it was sunburn, since the lesions were covered with a dry film. But when I cut a few fruits, I found snails inside. I sprayed the plantings with salt water, but this did not change the situation, because the peppers were already ripe. I have never heard of such behavior of snails. Whoever told me about this before would not have believed it. And in general, I have never encountered such an invasion of pests either. And I don't know how to deal with them either.
  • OOO "Sad" on Neighborhood cabbage - good with onions, bad with sorrelThe author of the article is right: cabbage is a moisture-loving crop that requires a large amount of potassium, since it is this element that is responsible for the water exchange of plants. Ash is a set of simple macro - and microelements that remain after the combustion of complex compounds. Therefore, the introduction of ash or its infusion is a good feeding with microelements. Potassium sulfate during this period as a fertilizer is suitable not only for cabbage, but also for peppers, tomatoes, cucumbers, pumpkins and zucchini. Svetlana KRIVENKOVA, agronomist
  • Alina KOZAK, Dzerzhinsk on Neighborhood cabbage - good with onions, bad with sorrelLong ago I realized for myself that cabbage grows well when it has enough moisture and potassium. To stimulate the tying of the forks, I water the plants abundantly over the leaves from the watering can. I feed at the root with complexes of organic and mineral fertilizers. My universal remedy is ash infusion (1 tbsp. Per 10 liters of hot water, infuse for a day, stirring occasionally). I water the cabbage at the rate of 1 liter of undiluted composition under the bush. If there is no ash, before watering, I evenly spill the bed with a solution of potassium sulfate (2 tablespoons per 10 liters of water) with the addition of trace elements (according to the instructions).
  • Natalia IVANOVA, Novokuznetsk on Work in December - what can be done at the dacha, site, in the garden and vegetable garden in December. Moon calendar.My grandmother always said that any vegetables with aboveground fruits and herbs, collected a couple of days before the full moon, bring maximum benefits and heal the body from ailments. Root crops, on the other hand, should have been harvested a couple of days before the new moon. We also tried to harvest the seaming crop at the correct times. And later my mother began to freeze such vegetables and, when we were sick, cooked broths from them. The cold passed very quickly!
  • Alena Ageeva, Penza on HOW TO GROW AND SAVE BEAN WITHOUT PUPPIESProtect beans from bugs A few years ago, I learned that the most dangerous pest of beans - the weevil beetle - gets into the pods at the site and immediately begins to multiply. If there is at least one infected bean in the bag, the crop is lost. Therefore, I have in store several tricks against the pest. I dry the beans that were husked after harvesting for several days in the sun. I fall asleep in bags, at the bottom of which I put chopped chives or dill seeds, whose smells the pest does not like. I store in the cold (on the balcony): the beans are not afraid of frosts, and the weevil does not tolerate them. At temperatures from 0 to - 9 degrees, it ceases to multiply, and at - 10 degrees, and below it dies. If the cold does not come for a long time, I send the beans to the freezer for three days. Then I store it in the closet or on the balcony in canvas bags. After this temporary freezing, the beans can be used for sowing. There is another way to cope with the weevil - to dry the beans in the oven at 130 degrees. 5-7 minutes. However, such beans are no longer suitable for sowing.
  • Maria VASILYOK on Folk remedies for diseases and pests from expired pharmacy medicinesYarrow from thrips Very good from thrips, aphids and spider mites infusion of yarrow. I pour 800 g of chopped dry grass with 5 liters of boiling water for 30 minutes, then filter, dilute 10 liters of cold water, add 30 g of soap and spray the plants.
  • OOO "Sad" on Seedlings of TOMATOES without dressing in homemade cupsCOMMENTS OF THE SPECIALIST Not only wild rosemary repels pests, and not all natural insecticides need to go into the forest. You can sow marigolds around the perimeter of the garden - they will scare away aphids. Coriander will drive away not only pests, but also rodents. Marigolds (calendula) growing nearby will help to cope with butterflies on cabbage. Parsley, wormwood, mint, hyssop, basil and other aromatic plants are also repelled by insects, therefore, alternating planting with vegetables, you can reduce the number of pests. When harvesting wild rosemary, carry a medical mask, gloves and pruning shears. The plant is poisonous, causing severe headache when essential oils evaporate. Store it in tight paper bags. Elena ISAEVA, agronomist
  • Tatyana CHUPRAKOVA on Seedlings of TOMATOES without dressing in homemade cupsFor seedlings I definitely bring moss from the forest. I dry it, then store the onion and garlic in it. I add chopped moss to the seedling soil - about 20% of the total mass. I am always glad if I manage to find lichen (Icelandic moss), because my great-grandfathers knew about its disinfecting properties. And I discovered another useful feature of this moss - the ability to retain moisture. I use it instead of a hydrogel. 0,5 tbsp. Powdered dry reindeer lichen pour 2 tbsp. hot water and in small portions, stirring thoroughly, add to the soil mixture, which then fill the flower pots and seedling boxes.
  • Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous) on Folk remedies for pests - proven methods from gardeners: collection 4I remember how my father fumigated the cattle premises with marsh rosemary. He said that this plant kills not only many diseases, but also pests. Whiteflies, bugs, moths, mosquitoes, meadow moths, spider mites are afraid of him. Therefore, in the fall and spring, I fumigate the greenhouse, the cellar (before the harvest) and the shed with the inventory (after placing the tools in it and before using them at the beginning of the season). I dry and grind the branches. So that they do not burn, but smolder, I add fresh sawdust. For a good handful of mass, I lay out sludge and old pans on metal lids and tightly close the doors. For a room of 18-20 square meters, 3-4 such burners are required.
  • Anastasia ROMANCHIK, Gorki on How to grow your seeds - what plants, how and when?In September, when harvesting, I select the most beautiful and healthy roots of carrots, beets, parsley, parsnips, celery, and put them in a cellar in the sand. In the spring I plant it in the ground. I tie the first peduncles that appear on them in the summer to a support so that they do not break, and I remove all the small lateral ones. As soon as the inflorescences turn brown, I tie the testes in bunches and dry them in gauze bags or on paper.
  • Zinaida on How to grow your seeds - what plants, how and when?I collect tomato seeds at the beginning of the season. I select the fruits from the second flower brush. I noticed: the later I collect the seeds, the more often the plants from them get sick. In addition, I collect seeds only from varietal plants. Harvesting hybrids are not suitable.
  • Olga HVALKO, Svetlogorsk on How to grow your seeds - what plants, how and when?Pumpkin seeds - my seeds Seeds of pumpkins, watermelons, melons, squash, zucchini I collect from fully ripe fruits. I noticed that the highest quality seeds are in the middle part of the fruit. Seeds from slightly frozen fruits do not lose their germination. The extracted seeds are not mine, I just free them from the remnants of the pulp and dry them until they flow. I take into account that the thicker the seeds, the longer they dry. Therefore, I am in no hurry to put them in sealed jars: they can get moldy. Store in a dry place with a temperature of about +16 degrees, and moderate humidity in paper or cloth bags.
  • OOO "Sad" on Bean agrotechnics - tips from c.h. Sciences - ONLY THE MAIN THING!- Most likely, this is how the lack of potassium and (or) water is manifested. Try to keep the soil under the bushes moderately moist. In addition, feed the garden with a solution of potassium chloride (0 tsp per 5 liters of water) or potassium sulfate (10 tsp per bucket of water) - pour 1-1 liters of the composition under each bush. So that next year such a problem does not arise, in the fall, under the digging of the future site, add potassium nitrate (5 tablespoon per 2 square meter). Elena ISAEVA, agronomist
  • Valentina Sergeenko, Almetyevsk on Bean agrotechnics - tips from c.h. Sciences - ONLY THE MAIN THING!The edges of the late bean leaves wither and dry up, but the entire leaf does not die. If this is a disease, then what to do?
  • Gennady ANISKIN, Tomsk on What pumpkin is the most delicious, sweet and healthy - an overview of varieties and typesSo that the pumpkin fruits are not watery, accumulate a maximum of sugars and are well stored, I stop watering a month before harvesting. If it rains often, I cover the plants with foil. To prevent the pumpkins from rotting, I put planks under them, and in September I cover them with hay from possible frosts.
  • Alexander ROZENTSVEIG on If a white bloom appears on the leaves of the zucchini, this is white rotWhen cold rains begin to fall frequently at the end of summer, rot may appear on the pumpkin. In order to save the harvest without tearing the fruit off the bush, I carry out an operation on the rot. With a sharp knife disinfected in vodka or potassium permanganate, I cut out the rot. I rub fresh aloe juice into the edges of the wound. The treated areas dry out quickly and tighten. The rot stops spreading and the fruit continues to grow. By the way, friends do the same, only instead of aloe juice they sprinkle the injured areas with crushed activated carbon.
  • OOO "Sad" on Prickly pear (photo) - cactus careIn a huge family, Cactaceae are quite compact and suitable for indoor culture: prickly pear microdasis albata (Opuntia microdasys var.albata), austrocylindropuntia salmiana (Austrocylindropuntia salmiana) and brasiliopuntia brasiliensis (Brasiliopuntia brasiliensis). It looks unusual and fits perfectly into compositions of succulents and other plants austrocylindropuntia styloid (A. subulata), shaped like a column with long cylindrical leaves on the young part of the stem. Cactus growers use it as a rootstock. The prickly pears bloom in summer. Then, in place of the flowers, bright red juicy berries appear, which significantly prolongs the decorative period. Plants develop well when planted in a nutrient earthen mixture, with sufficient watering, good lighting, with wintering not lower than +10 degrees. Ludmila ULEISKAYA
  • Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous) on Prickly pear (photo) - cactus careTell me what prickly pears can be grown indoors?
  • Olga ALEXANDROVA on Dichondra (photo) - growing as an annualSilver dichondra waterfall For several years I dreamed of buying silver dichondra seeds. And since then, as I succeeded, I have not parted with her "waterfall". I plant 3 seedlings in one flowerpot (3 l). As I grow, I put the stems in a circle in a pot, pressing the nodes with a paper clip to the ground and sprinkling them on top. Roots appear in these places, the plant braids the surface of the substrate and then begins to hang over the edge of the container. For bushiness, I pinch the tops of the shoots. Dichondra welcomes a bright light. I hang the plant in flowerpots on a canopy covered with a light silver mesh. So the sun does not burn the foliage and roots. The plant is hygrophilous, but without stagnant water. It responds well to spraying, especially in hot weather. If you do not water it on time (I try to prevent this), it drops the leaves, but, having received a portion of moisture, it quickly revives. During the season, I feed it once every 10 days with a complex liquid fertilizer with a predominance of nitrogen, for the growth of stems. In the fall (October-November) I collect seeds from the plant, which I then sow at the end of February. I cut the lashes to a length of 10 cm and leave the uterine specimens wintering in the cool (+ 7-10 degrees) and with poor watering.
  • OOO "Sad" on Elderberry - useful properties and recipes- In fact, this is a myth: the fact that the fruits of the black elderberry are edible, healthy and nutritious has been fully proven. In particular, even with the most severe diet for stomach diseases, elderberry jelly is recommended as medicinal. Jellies, confitures, jams, juices, candies, sauces, tinctures are prepared from berries. BUT! This applies to RIPE fruits. But it is really impossible to eat an unripe elderberry: in berries (as in flowers, leaves) there is hydrocyanic acid, therefore they are weakly poisonous, can cause dizziness, nausea, vomiting, diarrhea.
  • Polina Romanyuk on Elderberry - useful properties and recipesIs it possible to eat elderberry ??? I read on the Internet that you cannot eat black elderberry, because it is poisonous. Is it really so?
  • OOO "Sad" on Elderberry - useful properties and recipes- The easiest way is to sow fresh seeds from ripe fruits in autumn (in October). Of course, varietal characteristics can be partially preserved, which should be taken into account. But thanks to this method, many seedlings can be grown in a short time. Sow seeds to a depth of no more than 1 cm, be sure to mulch the crops with humus or peat. Friendly shoots will appear in mid-late April. Thin them at a distance of 30-40 cm. And after a year, in spring or autumn, the seedlings can already be transplanted to a permanent place. Varietal elderberry, in order to preserve its maternal qualities, is best propagated by cuttings, and in the near future this can be made lignified. They are cut from mid-September to mid-October from developed annual shoots 20-25 cm long. They are planted in a previously prepared and moistened bed to a depth of 10-15 cm, leaving two buds above the ground. In the fall of next year, rooted plants can be transplanted to a permanent place.
  • Galina Novik, Saratov region on Elderberry - useful properties and recipesThe doctor advised my mother to use black elderberry to improve the health of the heart and blood vessels. The neighbors have a gorgeous bush. But we also want to plant this plant in our country house. But neither we nor the neighbors know how easier it is to propagate an elderberry ...
  • Roman VASIN, Bryansk, on Blackcurrant: 2 Most Serious Problems - Kidney Mite and ReversionGetting rid of mites Kidney mites during the season can cause a lot of problems for currants and gooseberries. And in September, when it is still warm during the day, and at night the air temperature drops below +10 degrees, the pests gradually migrate to the kidneys. And in order to significantly reduce their number (and at the same time aphids), in the second decade of the month, plants should be treated - for example, with Fitoverm or Aktofit bioinsecticide, and sulfur-containing preparations can also be used on currants (Tiovit Jet, colloidal sulfur - according to the instructions). But for myself I found the optimal remedy against ticks - a sulfur-containing fungicidal-acaricidal preparation PFKleros. In the fall, I cook with the maximum dosage (according to the instructions). I even process gooseberries, which are sensitive to sulfur. At the same time, the agent additionally fights against powdery mildew and all sorts of spots. By the way, I also spray grape bunches with it against a felt mite (aka grape itch): the drug has a waiting period of 4 days.
  • Inga LISOVSKAYA on ACTINIDIA (photo) cultivation, planting and care - advice from a SPECIALISTIn early September, I harvest the actinidia kolomikta. After that, for better ripening of the shoots and increasing their winter hardiness, I add 15 g of double superphosphate and potassium salt to the soil under the liana for digging to a depth of 18-20 cm.
  • OOO "Sad" on How to raise feijoa at homeIf it is not a self-fertile variety, artificial cross-pollination is necessary for fruit setting. It is necessary to leave a few seedlings, and then transfer pollen from one flowering plant to the flowers of another. Most of the flowers fall off without producing fruit. Important points in keeping feijoa: bright sunlight (for the summer it is better to take out into fresh air) and cool (+ 12-15 degrees) wintering. Natalia SEMENOVA, biologist, Moscow
  • Tatiana BARANOVA, Samara. on How to raise feijoa at homeFeijoa tree (Akka Sellova) grew from seeds from a large tasty fruit. They are small and, when fresh, germinate easily. Yes, it took a long time to bloom, but it's worth it! Despite such beauty and brightness, the flowers have no scent. Each decorates the branches for a week. The leaves are also spectacular: the front surface is dark green and smooth, but the back is grayish-green and pubescent. Fruit on my pet did not set, apparently, cross-pollination is necessary. Without it, in order to be guaranteed to get fruit, it is necessary to grow self-fertile varieties. Feijoa care is similar to citrus fruits, only akka is a more moisture-loving culture, it does not tolerate overdrying of the soil. I feed the tree with citrus fertilizers. From time to time I bathe under the shower - the plant likes the procedure. Supplementary lighting is desirable in winter, this will have a beneficial effect on flowering.
  • OOO "Sad" on Cress salad on the windowsillInfusions and decoctions of watercress have antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, vitamin, diuretic, mild hypotensive, expectorant, sedative, mild laxative effects. When coughing, bronchitis: 3 tbsp. pour greens with 1 glass of boiling water for half an hour, strain and squeeze the raw materials, which can then be added to soup or vegetable stew. Take 1/3 cup of hot infusion 3 times a day half an hour before meals. In case of visual impairment, chronic constipation, hypertension: eat 70-100 g of herbs per day (in salads, on sandwiches, in an omelette and other dishes). The course is at least 3-4 weeks. For freckles, age spots on the face: wipe problem areas with plant juice 1-2 times a day. For joint pains (arthrosis, arthritis): spread the greens, mashed until juicing, on a dense fabric, apply it to the joint, secure with a bandage, warm, keep for 2-3 hours - every other day. For inflammatory diseases of the eyes (blepharitis, conjunctivitis): 2 tbsp. pour greens with 1 cup boiling water, bring to a boil, stand for an hour, strain and squeeze the raw materials. Flush your eyes several times a day. Store the infusion in the refrigerator for no more than 2 days. For oily skin: 1 tbsp. chopped greens, mix with 1 egg white and 1 tsp. honey. Apply a thin layer on face for 15 minutes, then rinse with cool water. Do it every other day, the course is 7 procedures. The mask brightens, nourishes, moisturizes and reduces the oiliness of the skin. Attention! It is better not to eat watercress with hypotension, stomach and duodenal ulcers, exacerbations of gastritis and colitis. It is advisable for pregnant and lactating women to consult a doctor beforehand. Dina BALYASOVA. plant biochemist
  • Ekaterina TULINOVA, St. Petersburg. on Cress salad on the windowsillI grow unpretentious watercress at home. I sow seeds all year round, so I always have fresh and healthy greens on my table. The first shoots appear after 10-12 days, and completely - after a month. Growing seedlings need abundant watering, otherwise the leaves will be bitter. I cut when they reach a height of 8-10 cm. I add watercress rich in vitamins to soups, salads and as a seasoning for meat. It gives the dishes a tangy taste, as it contains mustard oil. The people call the plant horseradish or peppercorn. I heard that it is widely used for medicinal purposes and cosmetology.
  • Vera Ogneva, Mezhdurechensk on Varieties of miniature tulips - photo, name and descriptionDo tulips need to be pruned after flowering?
  • Nikolay Khromov on What garden pests winter in mulchIn the middle of autumn, the soil is still warm and saturated with moisture, the second important period for mulching begins. Before mulch, remove large and perennial weeds and, if necessary, apply slowly decomposing winter fertilizers (bone meal, ash, etc.). Autumn mulching will protect plants from exposure and freezing of the root system in winter. The mulch layer should be renewed every year or every few years, depending on the mulch material used. Beds and flower beds with decorative plantings, as well as vegetable beds, should be mulched entirely, spreading the mulch in a layer of 7-10 cm over the surface around the plants. If you use wood chips, then hardwood is best, coniferous strongly acidifies the soil.
  • Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous) on "Family Garlic" - growing planting and careFound a family garlic. Grew up, unlike usual, without flaws. It differs from the usual one in that it is much higher, and the stems-leaves are very large, long. Convenient in planting: it grows in clusters without harming the crop.
  • Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous) on Cabbage in a seedless way in the open fieldI plant a lot of cabbage. In the summer I water it often, every other day at the beginning of the season, and as soon as it starts - once a week. I also like to plant peppers, I have the usual varieties - Elephant Tusk and Bogatyr, there is yellow. I plant it at least 100 bushes, I'm used to having enough for everyone. I like the spicy pepper Bouquet (it grows with peppers up), I plant it for the sake of beauty: we do not eat spicy.
  • Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous) on Sowing carrots in June is not too late ...I love planting carrots in August, but they only have one feature: they love freedom, so I try to plant them right in the garden next to the potatoes. I water it only at the beginning of growth, then it grows by itself.
  • Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous) on Phyllotistic pumpkin phycephaly (photo) planting and carepumpkin fitcephaly - good for diabetics. I was worn out with her at the beginning of summer, because the heat stood, whatever you pour - everything dried up at once. I had to find seeds in the ground, transplant them closer, so that watering was more effective. And in June they got up, late because of the heat, but they managed to grow up. The taste of fitsephaly is unusual, with a taste of either melon or sweet cucumber, and the skin is like a watermelon, and you can also eat it.
  • Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous) on Tomato variety "Mongolian dwarf": my reviewsIn growing tomatoes, everything is also simple: I don't like mess, so I pinch all varieties at a height of 1 m.I plant at least 150 bushes so that I have enough for myself and for those to whom I always distribute. Last year I found the Mongolian dwarf variety, and now at least forget about all the varieties except this one. Productivity: up to one bucket from a bush, all tomatoes are even, do not crack, fruiting until frost. I planted it on the sunny side, I gathered seeds. I sometimes send my ads to Dacha. Thank you very much for typing, because this is at least some kind of material assistance: I am not working because of illness. Disability is not given, in our region it is not easy: they say you have to crawl to get the II group. I also bought tomatoes of such varieties as Azure Giant, Eros, American Ribbed - all different, all good in their own way. Azure - the fruits are blue, exotic, unusual. Eros - they are good in salting, and the Ribbed ones are so large that they can only be eaten fresh or sent to some kind of lecho - they will not fit into a jar. There is also the Rapunzel variety from China: the bush is strewn with tomatoes with a quail egg - hard, sweet, growing in a small twig. And the Green Cheeks variety is orange-yellow tomatoes with green barrels, which then also turn yellow, fleshy, sweet, weighing up to 200 g. The Pink Miracle variety is beautiful in conservation: the fruits do not crack, and the bush is covered with even tomatoes.
  • Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous) on What kind of potatoes should be cut for LANDING, and what varieties cannot be cut?Last year, I planted Kiwi potatoes, the leaves of which are not eaten by the Colorado potato beetle. Productivity: I got 12 from one bucket, I think it's good. A non-GMO variety, I bought it from an 85-year-old grandmother, she only plants it, and eats it herself, and everything is fine with her. There is a Rosamund variety - this is a miracle, not a potato! The yield reaches 24 buckets from one! Clean, large, there is a lot of it in the bushes. To dig out a bush, you must first pull out the tops, pick out the potatoes that are visible, and only then dig around so as not to injure the tubers. There is also a Sonny, he is a Bogatyr. Good grade! There is also a blue pulp - Amethyst. The yield is also good, I collected 14 from one bucket. Of course, it is difficult to choose black from black, but how tasty and healthy these potatoes are! This year I also planted it with red pulp - I barely found it, the Red Cranberry variety. I have other varieties, but they already seem common to me.
  • Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous) on Pest and problem control in cucumbers and cabbage - specialist adviceSomeone is gnawing cucumbers in the greenhouse, I attach a photo of the spoiled leaves. Tell me who is robbing this and how and how to process the planting in the greenhouse?
  • Nicholas on Forming the grapes with your own hands on the trellis from A to Z (+ schemes)I just can't manage to keep the grape sleeves started. From year to year, every spring, two small branches left after the autumn pruning with two buds on each for some reason die off, and instead of them new vines stretch out of the ground. I tried to shoot the shelter after winter at different times. At the same time, the started sleeves remain alive all the time, but then dry out along with the swollen buds. The planted grapes are seven years old. It grows on the eastern side of a small building. I also grew two varieties of large-fruited strawberries from seeds, and both have shriveled and twisted leaves. The large-fruited strawberry of another variety planted earlier does not have such signs, although all three varieties grow on the same land. Maybe someone knows what the problem is?
  • Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous) on How to get rid of a butterfly cabbage butterflyWe close the cabbage from butterflies with a shading net: we put arcs, wrap it with a net 1 m wide and 10 m long (sold in suburban stores), connect the middle with clothespins. When necessary, remove the clothespins and open the garden bed. The mesh saves from butterflies and hail. liked the advice of M.F. Veselova ("Tomatoes on the Beds"), I also want to try using a net for plants, and not tie it with strings to a stretched wire under the ceiling of the greenhouse.
  • Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous) on What to cook from your cherries and raspberries - recipesPut the ripe cherries on the wire rack, and the wire rack in the tray, and knead them with a crush (photo). The juice is separated from the pulp, we take out the bones using disposable forks. Bring the juice to a boil and pour it into sterilized jars and bottles.
  • Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous) on Growing watermelons in the Moscow region - planting and care, my reviews and adviceDo not rush to throw away polycarbonate sheets, copies or had to be replaced for some other reason. For example, hail broke When hail broke through polycarbonate over our porch, we took it off and folded it in half lengthwise - we got a sheet 1 m 10 cm high (was 2 m 20 cm), then we rolled it up with a wheel, fixed it in a circle with an old hose and wire - it turned out a good greenhouse (photo 1) .. We made a warm substrate there from the branches left after cutting the raspberry, in the spring we added humus, earth and planted watermelon seedlings. From above, the arcs were closed on cool nights and days with a covering material - a film. In 2020, we grew a watermelon of an early variety - 7 kg (photo 2), which we removed before the frost, we had to cover it (after all, we have Siberia), but for another month it was ripened in a 10-liter bucket of ash on the balcony. It turned out to be not very red, but tasty and sweet. And the other three small-fruited watermelons grew and sang inside the greenhouse. In another such greenhouse, the Gribovskaya bush pumpkin grew well. She does not have the peculiar pumpkin scent that some do not tolerate.
  • Tamara on Potato and other plant nematodes - pest control measuresHow to get rid of a nematode? This question was asked by the reader N.V. Bokova. These small worms are very cunning and difficult to defeat. They multiply rapidly; the female lays up to 800 eggs. Nematodes are not afraid of severe cold or drought. So. After harvesting, the tops of the potatoes must be burned, the soil must be treated with a preparation with carbation (400 g per 5 liters of water), nitric acid fertilizers must be applied - for a nematode this is a poison. In the soil, the earthworm fights with the nematode, destroying the laid eggs. But the best way is crop rotation. In the spring, I advise planting marigolds, calendula, beans and peas on the infected area: essential secretions of the root system of these plants are destructive for the larvae of the nematode, and potatoes can be planted in this area only after four years by treating the tubers with potassium permanganate. I wish you success in the fight against this insidious pest!
  • Irina on Zucchini and squash - growing, planting and leaving from A to ZDue to the modest size of the summer cottage, I have to try various varieties of vegetables that promise the greatest harvest. So this year, in the store, I caught sight of the seeds of Cavili zucchini. The seller praised them so much! And self-pollinated, and early, and the fruits of the sea. But the most important thing is Dutch seeds. There are only five in a bag, but they cost like six of ours. In general, the promises of the saleswoman bribed me, especially since she planted herself and the result was excellent. I prepared five cups of fertile soil. The seeds were processed and pink in color. I planted one in each glass. As soon as it got warmer on the street, I took it to the greenhouse, and later, when the threat of return frosts passed, I planted it on the beds fertilized with rotted manure. And what do you think? Zucchini began to grow. Yes, a lot of ovaries formed - the zucchini were self-pollinated, there were no barren flowers. Yes, only the trouble is: as soon as the fruit is tied, its tip begins to rot. I'll tear it out, the next batch grows - again the same picture. I tried to heal the zucchini, to feed it. I didn’t water it again, so that there was less moisture, so that it would not be spoiled. But the result disappointed me. Those that did not deceive, grew up as some kind of freaks - thickened from the stem, then narrow (this is clearly seen in the photo). Then I planted the seeds of the Tsukesha and Beloplodny varieties right in the garden, and they overtook the Dutch in their growth and gave many beautiful even fruits. This is the result I got when trying to grow the early Dutch Kavili squash.
  • Natalia Ganina, Tver on Growing basil in the home and in the gardenDo-it-yourself basil salt A fragrant and tasty seasoning for meat, poultry and fish dishes. Wash 4 large sprigs of basil, tear off the leaves, and leave on a paper towel overnight. Then put in a blender along with 2 peeled and chopped large garlic cloves, grated zest of half a lemon and 3 tbsp. sea ​​salt, grind. Pour onto a baking sheet, set for 20 minutes. in a heated up to 90 degrees, and the oven turned off. Cool, knead small lumps with your fingers, pour into an airtight container for storage.
  • Nikolay Borisovich Pavlovsky Posad, Moscow region. on Growing raspberries in the warm beds of Rozuma - my reviews, planting and careI'll tell you about the raspberry "with legs". I borrowed it from a neighbor, I really liked it: early maturing, abundant fruiting, and the berries on it are relatively large. But I don’t know the name of the variety. I only know that it is garden and not renovated. And one more thing: this raspberry moves from place to place. In the spring, I planted the dug out lignified shoot in a sunny and not lowland place designated for the future raspberry tree. There, raspberries began to grow at me, giving in the second year many shoots nearby. In the third year, at the beginning of the season, I installed supports for her, going around it all along the perimeter with four crossbars installed on four stakes driven into the ground, and also let additional crossbars through the middle so that branches in the center of the raspberry tree could be tied to them. Well, the extreme ones, respectively, to the side supports. Every year after picking berries, a little later, I remove the old branches that have borne fruit, thereby giving freedom to the young. In the fall, when the sprouts become woody, I remove the lowest and thinnest of them, then I carefully examine the remaining ones: are there any sprouts with round or oval thickenings among them. If there are any, I also remove them: in such thickenings, the larvae of the raspberry gall midge huddle. If there are thickenings of processes, I thin them out. Then I cut off the tops of the remaining branches, leaving bushes with a height of 1, 6-1, 8 m, and so I leave it until spring. Raspberries overwinter perfectly. In the spring, I tie the branches to the supports and carefully add fertilizer (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium) to the soil under the bushes. And during the summer I sometimes pour ashes under the raspberries. Gradually, from year to year, raspberries move to another place and go out of control of the supports, so you have to renew the land in the place where it grew, and re-plant the shoots there or look for a new place suitable for it. Of course, growing such a "restless" variety in one place is troublesome, since rearrangement of supports, preparation of new sites for planting require additional time, but I do not want to part with it at all. You will look at other varieties - they still have green berries, but the “fidget” has ripe ones, you can pick it.
  • Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous) on Strawberry seeds - how to prepare and sow seeds (Orenburg)People want more and more beauty, so the “irreplaceable” potato is rapidly losing ground. Even in small areas, groves appear, in which summer residents plant spruces, pines, birches and other trees. And under them a continuous carpet grow berries - lingonberries, blueberries, blueberries ... There would be much more such beautiful corners, but people fear that the trees will grow strongly and leave in the shade not only forest berries, but also other plantings on the site. But here there is just no problem! Cropping is a great way out. With its help, you can, for example, limit the growth of an ordinary spruce to only 2 m. The procedure itself is quite simple: a thin tree trunk is cut from above every five to six years and a nearby knot is pulled to it with a thick wire. On the trunk to a height of 1,5 m, all branches are cut off, and the side branches are shortened so that the crown size does not exceed 1 m. Conifers can be cut both in spring and autumn, and birch - only after the end of the spring sap flow. It is not necessary to dig up the soil in such groves; it is enough to acidify it.
  • OOO "Sad" on Diseases and pests of lilies - how to fight- The reasons why the buds fall off may be different. For example, insufficient moisture, especially in dry weather. But most often pests are to blame. During budding, bushes can damage lily flies. They lay eggs in buds. Later, the hatched larvae literally eat them from the inside. Great harm is caused by the stem nematode and the lily rattle beetle (their presence is evidenced by the appearance of brown excrement on the leaves). Both larvae and adults of the beetle gnaw on young foliage, bite on lily buds, which leads to their shedding. The pest lays eggs of an orange-red hue on the back of the leaves. The beetle itself is bright red. In danger, it emits a crackling sound. Control measures Physical: if there are few lilies, the pests can be picked up by hand using toilet paper and immediately destroyed. Biological: in the evening, a special agent Spinosad is applied to the lilies, which contains bacteria that can destroy pests. Chemical: treatment of bushes with insecticides (Aktellik. Inta-Vir) in April and in summer when pests are detected (1 - 2 times; according to the instructions). The above pests do not harm the lily bulbs, and next year, under favorable conditions, the plants will be able to bloom.
  • Tatiana Volkova, St. Petersburg on Diseases and pests of lilies - how to fightPests on lilies I have a lot of lilies on my site, but every summer some of the buds do not bloom, but turn brown and fall off. Once inside the bud I found a white larva. The bulbs look healthy when transplanted. What is the problem?
  • Lyudmila ULEYSKAYA, Cand. Biol. science on Conifers for the garden (photo) compact, weeping, creeping and columnarThe second half of August in the middle lane is ideal for planting conifers. Young plants with a closed root system will take root better (postpone the planting of adult specimens with an open root system until late autumn before the onset of frost). Prepare the planting holes in advance - in size and volume, they should exactly correspond to the containers in which the seedlings grew. Do not forget to drain and pour fertile soil mixed with coniferous litter (in an arbitrary ratio) and long-acting mineral fertilizer (according to the instructions) into each of the holes. Water the planted plants abundantly, and mulch the ground around them with the same coniferous litter. If the plants are slightly toppling to one side, tie them to a support. A week after planting, pour the conifers with a solution of the drug that stimulates root growth.
  • Anatoly KISELEV, Balashikha. on Complex feeding of gladioli - my schemeHow to keep a bouquet of gladioli longer I cut off the inflorescences of gladioli in the early morning or evening after sunset, when 2-6 flowers open on the plant. To transport flowers over long distances, I cut the inflorescences in the phase of one open flower. When cutting, it is important to keep at least four tuber-bulbous leaves on an abandoned plant: the more there are, the more intensive is the process of the outflow of carbohydrates into the corm, which allows it and tubercuts to gain a larger supply of nutrients and better endure winter storage. I cut it like this: with a narrow penknife on the flat side of the plant, I make a puncture (incision) between the fourth and fifth leaves to a depth slightly further than the middle of the stem. With my right hand, I take the plant below the puncture, and with my left hand, above the border of the stem emerging from the leaves. I swing the inflorescence with my left hand in different directions - and the stem breaks at the puncture site. Then, slightly twisting and turning it in one direction or the other, carefully pull the stem out of the leaves. Immediately I put it in a vessel with water and transfer it to a cool room, where the inflorescences, opening all the buds, bloom for 10-15 days. I change the water in the vase every two days. The stems of gladioli, dropping them into a bucket of water, cut them by 2-5 cm and put them back in the vase. It is better to take settled water (without chlorine). And it is useful to add citric acid to it (on the tip of a knife).
  • OOO "Sad" on How to deal with real false dew on cucumbers - my recipes and tips- First, dig up the soil well and select all the remains of diseased plants, since the downy mildew remains in the soil and can later infect other plants. After that, level the earth well and loosen it, then prepare a saturated solution of potassium permanganate and spill the soil with it. Cover the treated bed with foil for a day. Next, under the digging, add 15 g of urea and 500 g of wood ash per 1 sq. M.
  • Svetlana Shpak on How to deal with real false dew on cucumbers - my recipes and tipsShe pulled out cucumbers, which were affected by downy mildew and mites. Is it possible to sow something in this place in August or before winter? How to prepare a garden bed?