Recent Comments gardeners and gardeners:

  • OOO "Sad" on Propagation of petunia by cuttings propagation- Yes. The timing of the appearance of this ailment coincides with the peak of the defeat of tomatoes and potatoes. For prophylaxis, immediately after planting in the ground, treat the seedlings of petunias with "Ridomil", "Metaxil", "Bravo", "Tridex" or "Ordan" (according to the instructions). Use the same drugs to treat plants from late blight.
  • Ekaterina Kruglova on Propagation of petunia by cuttings propagationIs it true that petunias can get late blight?
  • OOO "Sad" on Tui: planting and care, varieties and species.- Thuja should be planted in open ground no later than mid-September (if autumn is warm, then until the 20th of the month). Then, before the onset of cold weather, it will have time to take root and take root. But it is best to do this in spring, in April, when there are least risks for plants. Do not have time to plant now, do not worry - western thuja winters well in the garden in a container. The main thing is to properly prepare it for the cold weather. Without waiting for severe frosts, wrap the container with a thick non-woven material and place a piece of thick board under it. Later, make sure that not only the container is covered with snow, but also a layer of at least 20 cm lies on the soil surface. You can also dig the thuja directly into the container so that it is completely buried in the ground. Then mulch with peat and cover the whole plant with spunbond or burlap. In the spring, in April, you just need to dig up the plant and transplant it to a permanent place.
  • Alexander Prokopovich on Tui: planting and care, varieties and species.I bought a beautiful western thuja in a container, but I'm afraid that I don't have time to plant it on the site in autumn. Does the seedling overwinter in a container?
  • Galina NIKOLAEVA, Moscow region on Care for daisies - a few tips for the floristI love garden daisies (I have a Galaxy Mix variety) for their unpretentiousness and delicate beauty. The perennial blooms from April, and after a break in the hot months by autumn it again pleases with its flowers. I propagate by dividing the bush (with seed, maternal varietal qualities are lost). In the first half of September, I dig out a two-year-old bush and divide it into 4-6 parts. I remove the formed buds, cut the roots by 4-5 cm. Into the soil on the garden bed for digging, I bring 1-5 kg of humus per square meter, 6 tbsp. wood ash and 2-30 g of nitroammophoska. After planting, I water the seedlings with warm water. And before the frost, I sprinkle the young with mulch from dry fallen leaves and cover it with spruce branches. In the spring, I harvest the spruce branches, and leave the leaf mulch, mixing it with the soil around the plants. Having freed from the "fur coat", the flowers, like pearls, gradually "scatter" over the site. By the way, daisy is translated from Greek - "pearl".
  • Vera PAVLOVA, Perm on Diseases of gladioli: name, symptoms and treatment - memo tableGladioli without thrips Often gladioli damage thrips - small insects that suck the sap of plants. So that in the next season the flowers do not hurt, in October, digging out the corms, I cut off the stems completely, and also discard the wrinkled old bulbs. I clean the healthy material from outer scales, pollinate it with any insecticidal powder (to destroy wintering thrips), wrap it in newspaper and put it in the basement for the winter.
  • Alexander TRAFIMOV, Volgograd Region on Digging and storing dahlia tubers - how CORRECT?How to save dahlias until spring without loss Dahlia root tubers are best stored in the basement or cellar. But I'm not in a hurry to bookmark for the winter. If it is already cold outside in September, I spud the plants to a height of 10-12 cm. And after waiting for the first frost, on a dry day I cut off the aboveground part at a height of up to 15 cm, dig in the root tubers from all sides and carefully remove it from the soil. I dry it in the sun, clean it from the ground and dip them in a lime solution (200 g of lime per bucket of water). I dry it again and only after that I lower it into the cellar. Root tubers should lie free, not touching each other. During the winter, I periodically examine the plants. If there are any rotten parts, I carefully cut them out and sprinkle the wounds with crushed charcoal.
  • OOO "Sad" on Rules for growing beets - the technology of sowing, care and harvesting- Most likely, we are talking about the beet fomosis. In summer, the disease manifests itself on the leaves, and in winter - in the form of black dense spots inside the root crop. One of the key reasons for phomosis is the lack of boron in the soil. So that the beets do not get sick in the future, strictly adhere to the rules of crop rotation. Immediately after emergence, and then twice more with an interval of 30 days, feed the plants with a solution of boric acid (dilute 1/3 tsp of the powder in 10 liters of water, water at the root at the rate of 10 liters per 1 sq. M). Keep in mind that the disease spreads especially actively in acidified areas, so in the fall, add lime or dolomite flour (half a liter jar per 1 square meter).
  • Nikolay Fomichev, Ryazan on Rules for growing beets - the technology of sowing, care and harvestingBlack circles appeared on the beet leaves (light inside). They grow quickly - and the leaves darken, turn red and dry out. Root crops are not damaged. I don’t make any additional fertilizing. Several years ago there was the same problem - then there was no harvest at all, all the plants died. What is it? How to fight?
  • OOO "Sad" on Horseradish - tips and suggestions- Horseradish grows quickly in areas that are treated with a walk-behind tractor. Its cutters crush the roots and scatter them to the sides. To get rid of the plant, collect horseradish rhizomes when digging potatoes in the fall (by the way, they can be used to make sauces and seasonings). Of course, you will not remove all the roots, but they will become much smaller. For spring tillage, also collect the roots, then repeat the procedure for planting potatoes. Pull the plants as soon as they appear throughout the year. And by the next season, if horseradish remains on your site, then in very small quantities. TIP: Do not throw away the collected horseradish roots. Wash, clean and dry them. Grind in a coffee grinder. Store powder in tins or glass jars. Dilute with cold water as needed - the resulting sauce will be as tasty as regular horseradish seasoning. However, remember that such soaked horseradish retains its sharpness for the first couple of hours, and then becomes bland.
  • Igor Volodin, Tula on Horseradish - tips and suggestionsHorseradish has grown in the area where I grow potatoes. Is it possible to somehow get rid of this plant? What needs to be done for this in the fall?
  • Hope ODINTSOVA on How to keep bell peppers fresh until winter is my secretIf the weather is cool in September, and the peppers are still yielding crops, every evening I lay out 2-3 PET bottles with hot water near the bushes. If the plants still begin to turn yellow from the cold, I feed them with a weak solution of urea (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water). To make the peppers ripe faster, 1 tbsp. I pour 10 liters of sifted wood ash into 1 liters of boiling water, insist for a day, filter it, add 1 liter of herbal mash to the composition, dilute with water 5: 1 and pour XNUMX liter of fertilizer under each bush after watering.
  • Anna LEBEDEVA, Izhevsk on Onion-Batun - growing, planting and photo of the brassBefore the onset of stable frosts, I dig the onion with a clod of earth and put it in boxes for storage in the barn. In order not to dry out, I cover it with a film. In early March, in the same form (with a clod of earth), I plant it in a greenhouse. As a result, I begin to cut the feathers 2-3 weeks earlier than from onions.
  • Alexander DUKHANOV, Moscow on Leeks (photo) planting and care, useful propertiesPreviously, in order to get a good harvest of leeks, he grew it through seedlings. Now I prefer bulbs. In the fall, during the onion harvest, I leave several plants in the ground for wintering under a thick layer of fallen leaves. In early spring, the onion starts to grow. When a well-developed peduncle appears (late May - June), I carefully open the caps and cut off the flowers at the receptacle so that the bulbs form. In September, the bulbs ripen. I select the largest ones and in late autumn I plant them on a garden bed in one row. I cover with spruce branches or Jerusalem artichoke stems. Since this is a cold-resistant culture, the bulb hibernates well under the shelter. In the spring they sprout together. This planting of leeks saves me from the need to deal with seedlings, and the crop from the bulbs grows earlier.
  • Daria KAMINSKAYA on Growing Beijing Cabbage Planting and Care - Simple Effective TipsAutumn Peking I manage to harvest Peking cabbage 3-4 times per season. To protect the plants from the cruciferous flea, I sow seeds in a greenhouse with tomatoes (for this I leave space between the tomato bushes). The final sowing is done in September. After watering the grown cabbage with warm water, I feed it with a mullein solution (1:10). I pour 1 liter of top dressing under each plant. Sometimes I use yeast: I dilute 100 g of fresh yeast in 10 liters of lukewarm water, pour 1 liter under the plant. TIP: To make the heads of cabbage better tied, I spray the Peking with a solution of boric acid (I dilute 2 g in 1 liter of hot water and bring the volume with clean cold water to 10 liters).
  • Galina ERANOVICH on Rationing (ripening) of tomatoes - how right? Advice from a specialistTomatoes of milk ripeness without damage to mine, I let them dry on a towel, I put them in two-three-liter jars sterilized in the oven, cooled down. I do not press tightly and try not to damage during the bookmarking. I pour 3 tablespoons into a filled container. alcohol (not vodka!), I close it with nylon caps. I gently roll it in my palms so that the alcohol moistens all the fruits. I open it and lower the lit candle wick inside. As soon as the alcohol starts to burn, I quickly take out the wick and roll up the jar with a metal lid. I store it in the cellar. If there was no alcohol at hand, I put the washed dried tomatoes in sterilized jars, on the bottom of which I poured 2 tbsp. mustard powder. I also pour another 3-4 tbsp on top and between the layers. powder. I roll it up with metal lids. As in the first case, I store it in the cellar.
  • Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous) on Rationing (ripening) of tomatoes - how right? Advice from a specialistBefore laying for long-term storage, I wipe each green tomato with a cotton pad dipped in vodka in order to disinfect the skin and protect the crop from decay. I wrap the prepared tomatoes in a newspaper, put them in an enamel bucket, close them with a lid and keep them in the cellar. I check it once a week. I take the pink fruits home. I put some of them on the windowsill (they ripen faster), the rest on the lower shelf of the refrigerator.
  • Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous) on Rationing (ripening) of tomatoes - how right? Advice from a specialistI examine green tomatoes before putting them on ripening. I select only medium and large fruits without damage and rot spots. I dip it in hot (+60 ... + 70 degrees) water for a minute, then dry it. Hot water kills phytophthora spores, if suddenly they are on the skin. Then I put the fruits with the stalk upward in plastic containers with a 2-3 layer lid, sprinkle with dry sawdust or cut paper. I keep it in a cool dark place. Once every 2-3 days I conduct an audit - I select all ripe fruits or those that have begun to deteriorate. If I find a rotten tomato, I take the rest out of the container, rinse the container with soap, wipe it dry, and then put the tomatoes back in place and sprinkle them with fresh sawdust.
  • Alain on To chrysanthemums bloomed ... Flower CareChrysanthemums can be propagated by dividing the bush, or by cuttings. To do this, you need to select the mother bush in the fall, which will give healthy offspring. It is better to dig this bush and transplant it into a container (basin or bucket), bring it into a cool room - a basement, a glazed balcony, into a heated greenhouse or greenhouse. In the spring, put the container with the bush in a warmer, well-lit place, water and feed. When the sprouts grow up, you need to cut them off carefully with a clean blade and plant in the prepared substrate. It is recommended to use peat tablets for these purposes, which should be pre-soaked in boiled water. Cardboard egg trays are well suited for rooting, only you need to insert them one into one so that they do not get wet ahead of time. Then put a peat tablet in each cell and plant chrysanthemum cuttings there. Place trays in large plastic bags and close tightly. Once a day, the cuttings need to be ventilated, accustoming them to open air.
  • Tanya on Agricultural technology of corn - only the most important thing!HOW WE GROW CORN After harvesting, we dig a trench, put organic matter from the garden in it. All autumn, winter and spring we put food waste into it. In the spring, we sow green manure on an earthen rampart, most often white mustard. Then we throw in any more plant debris, cover it with soil along with the sprouted mustard and plant the seedlings. In such a bed, corn grows more than 2 m and gives an excellent harvest of ears.
  • Larisa Lazarenko on Want a LARGE currant? Water it!TO MAKE THE CURRANT BIGGER To do this, periodically add potato peelings under the mustache. And in the fall, you need to finely chop the marigolds and spread them under the bushes. You will be surprised at the harvest!
  • OOO "Sad" on Folk Remedies for Moniliasis and Curly- You have correctly identified the problem - curliness. The first signs of the disease appear in early spring during bud break. It usually develops in conditions of high humidity and low temperatures. The most favorable period for illness is a cool and prolonged spring. Control measures In the fall, at the end of leaf fall, treat the crowns and trunks with a solution of urea (500-700 g per 10 liters of water). In the next season, preventive measures are required to combat leaf curl. On the swelling buds, but even before they bloom (the green cone stage), spray the peach with a solution of copper sulfate or Bordeaux liquid (300 g per 10 l of water). Before flowering (pink bud phase), use one of the fungicides - Topsin-M, Horus, Strobi, Ridomil Gold (according to the instructions). After flowering - preparations Skor, Tilt. If necessary, repeat the spraying with Skor 14 days after the last treatment.
  • Nadezhda Zhukovskaya, Smolensk region on Folk Remedies for Moniliasis and CurlyTell me, what's with the peach (pictured)? Planted last fall, in the spring they sprayed for curliness. And in the summer such spots appeared on the leaves ...
  • OOO "Sad" on Apple bark diseases- From the photo it can be assumed that the trees are affected by a serious fungal disease - black cancer. Symptoms of the disease: black spots form on the leaves, and black rot appears on the fruits. In addition, the crust darkens, cracks appear on its surface, because of which it begins to turn inside out. What to do? Urgently deal with the treatment of wounds - remove the affected areas with a sharp knife, grabbing up to 2 cm of healthy bark (first lay a litter under the tree, then collect the bark and burn it). Then disinfect the wounds with a solution of copper sulfate (10-20 g per 1 liter of water) and cover with garden varnish. But! If the bark disease has already spread to more than 50% of the circumference of the trunk, then it is better to cut down and burn the tree. And next time for planting choose plants resistant to diseases and zoned varieties.
  • Natalia Kharchenko on Apple bark diseasesOn some trunks of fruit trees, the bark began to dry out and turn black, as if burnt (pictured). The garden store advised me to buy chemicals, but the treatments did not help. What to do?
  • OOO "Sad" on Apple bark diseases- A cobweb on an apple tree is a sign of damage by pests. It could be a spider moth. If there are caterpillars in the web, then it is most likely a silkworm or moth. If there are worms, it is a moth. If the leaves are curled, this is the work of a leaf roll. A spider mite and a honeycomb also leave a cobweb. Control measures Be sure to remove and destroy caterpillars that look like small worms, as well as their nests, so that new pest larvae do not mature in the future. Cut and burn the cocoons, if any. After harvesting, spray the crown with a biological product (for example, Ento-bacterin or Dendrobacillin) according to the instructions. Repeat the treatment in early spring (before bud break).
  • Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous) on Apple bark diseasesA cobweb appeared on the apple tree. What to do: cut off the branches or can you wash off the cobweb and treat the crown with some drug? Elena Nemcheva
  • OOO "Sad" on Currant tidiness - photo and treatment- Alas, your bush is infected with the most harmful black currant virus - reversion. This serious illness leads to partial or even total loss of crops. The photo clearly shows the symptoms of reversion. First of all - changing the appearance of the bush. The leaf blades have become three-lobed, whereas in a healthy plant they consist of five parts. The shape of the leaves as a whole becomes asymmetrical, the size decreases, the edges have rare large teeth. Leaves thicken, coarse and lose the aroma characteristic of currants. Other signs of the disease: a large number of elongated shoots, the absence of berries (both on individual branches and on the entire plant), a change in the shape and color of flowers. What to do? The verdict is unambiguous: uproot the bush and be sure to burn it!
  • Olga Yudina, Moscow on Currant tidiness - photo and treatmentThis year, my black currant did not bear fruit, although the bush does not get sick, the leaves are clean (pictured), but they have no aroma for some reason. What could be the reason?
  • Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous) on What useful plants can be harvested in the fall?Preparation in September according to the table
  • Elena SUSHCHEVA, Salsk on Peppermint - properties and contraindications. Peppermint spices1. Warm mint tea before bed helps me calm down in a stressful situation. I pour 1 tbsp in a thermos. dry chopped mint herb 1 tbsp. boiling water, insist 30 minutes, add 1 tsp to the mug. honey. 2. Lotions with mint infusion for skin inflammation, cuts relieve redness and relieve pain. I fill in 2 tbsp. dry crushed herb mint 1 tbsp. boiling water, insist for 30 minutes, filter, moisten cotton pads or bandage, apply to the affected area.
  • Eugene SALANOVICH on Rosehip cultivation in the Moscow region - varieties, planting and careRosehip kissel I wash 30-50 dried rosehips, pour 2-3 tbsp. cold water and cook on low heat for 15-20 minutes. When the broth has cooled, I filter it into a separate bowl. I add another 1 tbsp to the fruits. water, boil again, filter. I pour 100 g of sugar into the resulting composition, put it on a low heat and, bringing to a boil, pour in, stirring, potato starch diluted in cold water (2 tablespoons). After 3-5 minutes, the vitamin jelly that strengthens the immune system is ready!
  • Alexandra AVERCHENKO, Krasnodar region on Devyasil high - medicinal and useful properties of the plantFor tone and strength 2 tbsp. dry root of elecampane (if you could not prepare it yourself, you can buy it at the pharmacy) pour 0,5 liters of red wine, bring to a boil and cook on low heat for 10 minutes. I insist under the lid for 15 minutes. I drink 50 ml 3 times a day 15 minutes before meals.
  • OOO "Sad" on Sowing lawn from A to Z - advice from a candidate of scienceIf you plan to sow a lawn, then the optimal time for sowing cereal grasses is from 10 to 25 August. At the same time, you can also lay out a ready-made roll lawn (up to the moment when the average daily temperature drops to +7 degrees). To make the grass grow and develop faster, after rain or watering, feed the sown lawn with superphosphate (40-60 g / m25) and potassium superphosphate (30-XNUMX g / kbja). Irina GURIEVA
  • Sergey ANDREEV on Sowing lawn from A to Z - advice from a candidate of scienceIn August, I cut the lawn every 7-10 days (depending on the speed of grass regrowth). At the same time, I do not feed the green carpet with anything, but only water it moderately. Do they really say that the best time to start a new lawn is also the end of summer? The seeds will quickly sprout in warm soil, and the seedlings will have time to get stronger by winter.
  • Antonina ARZHEVIKINA on Rhododendrons in the Moscow region - varieties, planting and careRODODENDRON IN AUTUMN 1. I spend the last dressing: after abundant watering, I put 20 g of superphosphate and potassium sulfate in the trunk circle of the bush. 2. Until the first frost, I regularly water the rhododendron (it takes about 1-5 buckets of water for a medium-sized bush). 2. In the last days of August, I mulch the ground under the bush with chopped pine bark or sawdust of coniferous trees. This procedure is mandatory, since mulch insulates the root system and protects the roots from drying out in the frozen soil. NOTE To acidify the soil under the rhododendron and stop development; fungal diseases, scatter 3-2 tbsp on wet soil around the bush. colloidal sulfur and water; Pure settled water.
  • Alesya Sokolovskaya on Crenellate shrubby (photo) planting and care. Benefits of Kuril teaTwo years ago, in August, I bought a sapling of Kuril tea, or Potentilla shrub, in a pot and, choosing a cool day, planted it out in an open, sunny place. I preliminarily loosened the soil, made a planting hole twice the size of the root ball and filled it with a nutrient mixture of turf soil, humus and sand (1: 1: 1). For the winter, the soil in the near-trunk circle was mulched with peat compost (it is possible with leaf humus) with a layer of 5-7 cm. In the spring, in May, I applied a pinch of granules of the mineral (NPK) mixture under a young bush shortly before the rain. I did not feed anything else, I watered in the summer moderately: it is impossible to allow both the overmoistening of the earthen coma and its overdrying. Potentilla bloomed in the same season, during flowering she treated her a couple of times with herbal infusions. To make the crown look compact, this year the "young lady" trimmed a little, removing damaged and protruding young shoots. Now the bush pleases me with an abundance of bright yellow flowers, a couple of which I always add to tea for health and mood.
  • OOO "Sad" on Caring for indoor flowers and house plants from A to ZIt is troublesome to grow a haulteria from seeds, so I bought a potted plant with a closed root system from a flower girl I know. In the spring, when the threat of return frosts passed, she planted a shrub in partial shade in a place with moderately moist fertile soil and mulched it with sawdust. Taking care of the plant is easy. In the spring I cut a bush, removing dry, damaged and diseased shoots. Throughout the season, I regularly water and gently loosen the soil. I feed my beauty only once a year - in June I add a mineral supplement that does not contain nitrogen (according to the instructions). An adult haulteria winters well without shelter. Only young bushes need protection from frost. It is better to insulate them with a layer of peat or dry leaves 8-10 cm thick. If a winter with little snow is predicted, the haulteria can be covered with spruce branches. Marina ZUBKO
  • Oksana ZAYARNYUK on 5 homemade hydrangea dressingsPaniculata and tree hydrangeas have won my heart! And how can you not take care of your favorites? At the end of summer, I feed hydrangeas with mullein infusion (1:10). And my neighbor treats her plants like this: she half-fills the barrel with cut grass, fills it up with water, insists on a sunny place for a week, dilutes it with water for irrigation (1:10). In August, hydrangeas often fall ill with powdery mildew: yellow and green spots appear on the leaves, a gray bloom forms on the inside. As soon as I notice these first signs, I immediately treat the bushes with Bordeaux liquid (100 g / 10 l of water). Aphids can also harm flowers. In this case, the plants will be saved by the insecticide Fitoverm or Aktellik (according to the instructions).
  • Larissa Bragunets, Khabarovsk Territory on Astrantia (photo) outdoor planting and careAstrantia blooms all summer until November. And each time the number of peduncles and the size of flowers increase. Astrantia can grow on any soil except highly acidic and alkaline. However, on loose, nutritious and moist soil, the bushes gain strength faster and form massive clumps in 3-4 years. The plant feels good in the shade, but in a sunny place, the flowering will be much richer. The plant is cold-resistant, practically not susceptible to diseases and pest attacks, and is capable of hibernating without shelter. The bushes do not fall apart. Despite the fact that Astrantia is easy to grow from seeds (they must first undergo stratification within 3-5 weeks), it is best to propagate it in the spring with basal rosettes - they take root quickly. Flowering begins in the second year.
  • OOO "Sad" on Ligas tiger and lily chalmoid - species, photo and description- Most likely, you have a locust (with lilac flowers) - the main lily of the garden group of lilies called Martagon, or Curly (Martagon Hybrids). And the second is one of the hybrids. These lilies are durable and winter hardy. The preferred planting time is early September. It is better to keep them now sprinkled with slightly moist peat at +5 degrees. To plant - immediately to a permanent place, since they do not like transplanting. For a year or two, lilies grow roots, "sulk" and do not bloom. Locust may not appear at all on the soil surface the next year after planting. All Martagon lilies do not like bright sun and prefer to grow under the cover of bushes or in the light shade of deciduous trees, where it is cool and damp. Suitable for gardens in a free, rustic style, and if they have settled where, they will be able to compete with neighbors for a place. They like light, loose, rich in organic matter and deeply cultivated soil. Saranka is extremely picky about the acidity of the soil, and the hybrids are more capricious - straight ones still grow on acidic soils, and complex ones prefer alkaline ones. On the sour, they look frail, turn yellow early and easily get sick. Therefore, they do not need to be mulched with sawdust and peat, but preferably with leaves with the addition of ash.
  • Marina on Ligas tiger and lily chalmoid - species, photo and descriptionLily bulbs were proposed with small purple turban-shaped flowers and similar burgundy, but much larger. Are they planted in areas well lit by the sun, like other lilies?
  • OOO "Sad" on Tui: planting and care, varieties and species.- In the middle lane, the western thuja and its forms are grown - they can decorate an alpine slide, a rocky, heather and Japanese garden, a retaining wall, a slope, the edge of a forest corner, a walking path and even the shore of a reservoir. The place should be sunny or not more than half a day in the shade. Remember, parts of the crown that will touch (shade) with other plants will become bare over time. It can be planted from late August to mid-September (bare roots). Thuja prefers medium loam, moderately nutritious, slightly acidic. If the soil is heavy clayey, light sandy or clean peat, you need to improve: a) add sand (1, 5-2 buckets / sq. M); b) clay soil (1 wedge / m2) and peat (3-1 wedges / m5); c) clay in powder form (2 buckets / sq. m); sand (3-5 buckets / sq.m), lime (depending on the acidity of the soil), compost (10-2 l / sq.m). TIPS In the prepared hole, spread the roots evenly (for container seedlings, the bottom layer of the coma should be “tousled”). Lift the tree so that the root collar is 3-10 cm above ground level. Fill with prepared soil and compact the soil with your hands, just do not squeeze it near the trunk. Thuja will settle a little with the ground, and the root collar will be flush with the horizon. You cannot deepen it. After watering, it is better to immediately mulch the soil in the trunk circle with pine bark and wood chips. But at the root collar (12-1 cm in diameter), cover the ground by no more than XNUMX cm or not cover it at all. Galina SINOGEYKINA, Cand. agricultural sciences, Barnaul
  • Olga Zinchenko on Tui: planting and care, varieties and species.When and how to plant thuja correctly so that they do not die (there is a sad experience)? What is the best place for them?
  • OOO "Sad" on What is the difference between panicle hydrangea and tree hydrangea - planting and care, conditions and varieties- Seeds need to be collected in September, dried on newsprint in a warm and dry place for a week, "peel off" the shell. Quite a lot of seeds are obtained from several faded inflorescences, they are medium-sized. They are stored in paper bags or in special, hermetically sealed capsules. It is better to sow seeds in February, so that during the spring-summer season, young plants have time to increase the green mass. Secrets of sowing and care Pour the substrate into the container (peat is better, since it does not contain weed seeds), tamp and spill with "Fitosporin" solution (according to the instructions). After sowing, sprinkle with a thin layer of sand or peat. Previously, seeds or a container with crops can be held for a week in the refrigerator or on the veranda with a temperature of 0 ... + 4 degrees. Then the crops are transferred to a warm place (+ 22-25 degrees). You can build a greenhouse by airing and moistening the soil daily as it dries out from the spray bottle. When shoots appear (after about 20 days), the shelter is removed. Seedlings are quite small, at first they do not grow quickly. When two pairs of leaves appear, they can be unpacked into cassettes. Young plants can easily be transplanted, the main thing is timely watering.
  • Yulia Nechaeva on What is the difference between panicle hydrangea and tree hydrangea - planting and care, conditions and varietiesIs it possible to propagate the Bretschneider hydrangea by seed? If possible, then how to collect and sow them correctly?
  • OOO "Sad" on Lavender (photo) - reproduction and careWet and heavy soil is not suitable for lavender. Choose locations with dry, well-drained soil that is neutral to slightly alkaline. Before planting seedlings, the site is dug deeply, if necessary, coarse sand is introduced, and humus is added to too poor soil. They are planted at a distance of 50-60 cm from each other and not closer than 30 cm from the path, taking into account the volume of an adult plant. Watering - only as the soil dries up. Top dressing a maximum of two times per season - in spring with a share of nitrogen, at the end of flowering - with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers with the addition of calcium. Natalia
  • OOO "Sad" on Letter (photo) and grass and flower, medicinal properties- This herbaceous perennial looks spectacular in the garden thanks to its bright lilac inflorescences and dark green fleecy leaves that resemble the shape of elongated hearts. But he does not like waterlogging, in damp places and thickened plantings he risks not only losing decorativeness (not blooming), but also becoming an easy prey for slugs and perishing. In August, the drop cap can be transplanted by choosing a drier, sunny area or diffused partial shade for it. In the shade, the shoots stretch out, fall apart, the inflorescences become loose. With a later, autumn, planting, the bush will not have time to take root and, as a result, it is unlikely to overwinter. In case of snowlessness and severe frosts, you can cover the soil with rotted compost. In early spring (April) feed it with a complex mineral fertilizer (according to the instructions). After flowering, the peduncles must be cut to a well-formed knot so that the plant does not waste energy on seed formation. From cuttings I propagate my letter by cuttings. In July-August, I break out the root part of the stem along with the "heel", cut it off from above, leaving 10 cm, and root it in loose soil under the bottle. Roots appear by autumn. You can transplant "babies" to a permanent place next spring. Irina YUSHCHENKO, plant collector
  • Nina Surikova on Letter (photo) and grass and flower, medicinal propertiesLast year, I planted a large-flowered drop cap near the reservoir. But this summer she did not please me with flowering. Maybe you chose the wrong place and it is better to transplant a bush? Is he capricious in leaving?
  • OOO "Sad" on Plant acidic (photo): care, useful properties and recipes- Your oxalis is sick and, moreover, affected by pests. Take a closer look at the bushes. If the plaque on the shoots and leaves is gray and the tissues underneath rot, these are signs of gray rot. A little damaged plant parts must be removed, after which the plantings must be treated with a mixture of copper sulfate and laundry soap (2,5 g and 20 g, respectively, per 1 liter of water; 3-4 times in 5-6 days). But if the curtain is affected by more than 40%, then it is better to get rid of it. Oxalis can also suffer from powdery mildew. Its signs: a white cobweb-tomentose bloom appears on the leaves and young shoots, which later becomes brownish-gray, at the end of summer - with black dots (fungal bodies). Cut off heavily affected shoots. Treat the curtains with the Tiovit Jet solution (20-25 g per bucket of water; 2-3 times at intervals of 7 days). Tricks of aphids Colonies of this pest, settled on bushes, lead to deformation of leaves and shoots, oppress plants and can even destroy them. The most effective remedy for aphids is Inta-Vir or Aktara (solutions are prepared according to the instructions). After 7 days, if larvae and adults are still present on the inside of the leaves, the treatment must be repeated. Nikolay KHROMOV, Cand. agricultural sciences, Michurinsk
  • Tatiana Pankratova on Plant acidic (photo): care, useful properties and recipesHow to save acid? The leaves of oxalis (oxalis) are covered with a gray bloom, in some places with black dots or twisted. There are specimens with deformed shoots. What is the reason? Can curtains be saved?
  • OOO "Sad" on Plant of blood-groove drug-use and cultivation on the site- Burnet is planted in open sunny areas and in partial shade. It tolerates various soils, but grows better on fertile, slightly acidic, medium-textured, with sufficient moisture. It blooms in the second half of summer, at the end of August, the bushes can be divided. However, the plant has a very thick multi-headed rhizome, which in adults In home treatment Hemostatic decoction for internal bleeding: 2 tbsp. dry rhizomes pour 200 ml of hot boiled water, close the lid and heat in a water bath for 30 minutes. In 10 minutes. strain, squeeze out the remaining mass, top up the volume with boiled water to 200 ml. Drink no 1 tbsp. 5-6 times a day after meals. Anesthetic: 2-3 tbsp. scald fresh herbs with boiling water and chop. Wrap in gauze and apply to sore spots. The juice is effective for diarrhea, internal bleeding. It is squeezed out of fresh grass and drunk at 2 tbsp. 3 times a day. Galina LAVRENOVA, Dr. med. Sci., Professor, St. Petersburg
  • Alevtina Ivanovna on Plant of blood-groove drug-use and cultivation on the siteA few years ago I received a "delenka of anemonella" by mail and waited for it to bloom. And recently I found out that it is ... a burnet. How is it remarkable and useful? How to grow properly?
  • OOO "Sad" on Growing heather (photo) planting and care, varieties - Container heathers are planted in August-early September or in spring (seedlings with open roots are undesirable). The plant is preliminarily placed in water for 1 hour. The hole should be twice the size of the root ball, in depth - 25-35 cm + 5-8 cm for laying drainage (broken brick, gravel, expanded clay). Remember, a lowland with stagnant water will instantly destroy plants, and this is not immediately noticeable: heathers retain leaves and flowers for a long time, although the bushes are already lifeless. FOR LANDING, IT IS NECESSARY IN ADVANCE TO MIX CONIFEROUS DALF, PEAT SAND (2: 3: 1). Instead of litter, they also use well-rotted (3-4 years) straw and manure bedding from the barn. With it, they also lay a special compost with sour peat and sand (2: 2: 1), which is then poured into the holes under the bushes after planting. The planting mixture is poured onto the drainage, 1 tsp is added. AVA granules and mix. The seedling, along with the lump, is placed in the hole and water is poured. Then sprinkle with soil and squeeze carefully. The root collar should remain at ground level. Mulch with peat, crushed bark or chips of coniferous trees. Elena MARASANOVA, agronomist
  • Emma on Growing heather (photo) planting and care, varietiesWhen can and how to plant heathers from pots in open ground? What formula should I prepare for them?
  • Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous) on Bells (photo) types of planting and carePeach bellflower (Campanula persicifolia) Useful properties The place loves damp, especially important is watering during drought during flowering. The soil is light, neutral or slightly acidic. When planting, compost or old humus is added to it. Peach bellflower can bloom almost to frost, provided that the faded inflorescences are cut off in time. You can propagate the bell by dividing the bush in August and early September. The shoots are cut and the rhizome is divided as follows. so that each division has at least 2 renewal buds. Seeds (they are very small) are sown in March for seedlings. In the treatment of Infusion for epilepsy, female diseases: 1 tbsp. dry chopped herbs pour 1 tbsp. boiling water for 2 hours, drain. Drink 1 / 4-1 / 3 tbsp. 3-4 times a day before meals. Analgesic infusion: 3 tbsp. dry chopped herbs pour 0,5 liters of boiling water for 2 hours, strain. Drink 1 / 4-1 / 3 tbsp. 2-3 times daily before meals.
  • Elena MARASANOVA, agronomist on Peonies (photo) planting and care in the open ground from A to ZIn the place where the old peony bush grew, over the next two years, young stems may grow from fragments of thin roots left in the soil. So after digging a bush, the resulting hole can be filled with rotten sawdust, mown grass and garden soil, expecting the continuation of the life of an amazingly beautiful flower.
  • Frans KHALILOV, Cand. Agricultural Sciences, Tatarstan on The best gooseberry varieties - the sweetest, largest-fruited and thornlessI consider the thornless gooseberry of the African variety a godsend for regions with a humid climate, since the plant does not suffer from powdery mildew. And because of the hard leaves, he is not afraid of aphids. The African bush is medium-sized (1-1, 2 m), incredibly winter-hardy - in my garden for 20 years the bush has never froze! With good care, one year after planting a one-year seedling, you can try the first berries - large, black, pleasant sweet and sour taste. In the fall, under the bush for shallow loosening, I bring in rotted manure (5-6 kg), superphosphate (40-60 g) and potassium chloride (30-40 g). At the beginning of the formation of berries, I feed with a solution of ammonium nitrate (15-20 g per 10 l of water) or infusion of mullein (1 l per bucket of water). An African can get sick with anthracnose (manifests itself as brown spots on the leaves). For protection, I spray the bushes with Bordeaux liquid - in early spring on the buds and before flowering (5 g per 300 l of water) or when the first reddish-brown dots appear on the leaves (10 g per 100 l of water).
  • OOO "Sad" on Honeysuckle curly honeysuckle (photo) species, planting and careThis behavior for honeysuckle honeysuckle growing without forming is the norm. It is too late to do anything now, but in the spring you can try to rectify the situation. The first way to make honeysuckle look decorative is to plant it on a tree stump. To do this, you will need to briefly saw off the entire aerial part of the plant, leaving only the hemp. After a while, the vine will start growing again. But do not expect early flowering from it: it will take at least 2-3 years to form a blooming crown. Don't forget about bush formation. Choose from the grown out shoots 3-4 of the strongest and strongest (they will serve as a skeleton), shorten them by about a third, and remove the rest. When the growing shoots reach the support, direct them in the right direction. In addition, regularly get rid of weak, frozen lashes, thin out the crown so that the honeysuckle looks neat. Most likely, after planting on a stump, you will be able to maintain the decorative appearance of honeysuckle, if you do not let its growth take its course. But still, there is a possibility that after years you will get the same plant that you have now: a lush top, and below the bare tangled shoots. Therefore, it seems to me, it is best to apply the second method: to emphasize the beauty of lignified, whimsically twisting stems. The next spring, remove the vine from the support and thin out, cutting out all the broken, dry lashes, leaving only a few of the most expressive shoots. In this case, you can admire the bloom already in the current season. G. ARTEMOVA, florist
  • V. Savchenko Ryazan region on Honeysuckle curly honeysuckle (photo) species, planting and careHoneysuckle honeysuckle is very bare from below, but in general the plant feels good - it develops and blooms. The exposed stems look very sloppy. What can be done?
  • OOO "Sad" on Varieties of carrots for juiceEarly maturing hybrids, which include F1 Napoli, accumulate less carotene than those with a longer growing season, which means that the intensity of coloring of the bark and pulp is less. But still not enough to be, as you write, pale and insipid. Perhaps you purchased poor quality seeds or used the wrong agricultural technique. For example, if carrots are grown with an excess of nitrogen, they will store less carotene. It is not difficult to identify the "overfed" plants: they are powerful, with dark green foliage and give the impression of superbly fruitful ... But everything ends with an impression. Root crops are formed small, coarse and tender. Such a crop is unlikely to pass a test for the amount of nitrates. A low content of carotene can also be obtained with a lack of potassium. Carrots are second only to cabbage in terms of nutrient removal, and their potassium consumption exceeds nitrogen consumption by 1,2-1,5 times. This element enhances the formation of sugars and slows down vegetative growth somewhat.
  • O. Remizova Moscow Region on Varieties of carrots for juiceSowed this year carrots of the Napoli hybrid, and the roots turned out to be pale and bland. Is this a feature of the hybrid or my mistakes when growing?
  • OOO "Sad" on 10 the most delicious and simultaneously beautiful varieties of tomatoesThe jelly-like mass that envelops the seeds is the pulp, or placenta. It is formed during the development of the fetus from the ovary and, gradually growing, fills the free space in the seed chambers. But in some varieties and hybrids, the growth of the pericarp (walls) outstrips the growth of the pulp, and the seed chambers do not have time to fill it completely. Hollow puffs are formed. Therefore, the first thing that comes to mind is the peculiarity of a particular tomato. And most often this is the culprit of pepper-shaped tomatoes. Even outwardly, such a fruit looks uneven, rather angular than rounded. The section shows that few seeds were formed, and those that exist are often underdeveloped. By the way, a similar feature - hollowness - is very convenient if you use the fruits for stuffing. Such a defect can, under certain conditions, also appear in varieties and hybrids that are not prone to hollowness. For example, in hot summer weather with intense insolation, plants produce many auxins that stimulate the formation of fruits. And as a side effect of high yields - hollowness. Another possible reason is the treatment of plants with drugs that promote fruit set. I. BELKINA, agronomist
  • A. Poroshnichenko Oryol region on 10 the most delicious and simultaneously beautiful varieties of tomatoesI planted a new variety of tomato, but the fruits turned out to be empty, dry, tasteless. With what it can be connected?
  • A. TERENTYEV Nizhny Novgorod Region on Plant gumi - 7 reasons! Pros and cons.I also grow a plant that is quite rare in our area - gumi. It requires increased attention to itself. One of the reasons for this is insufficient winter hardiness, so I start preparing for winter ahead of time. If August is dry, then I water it for the last time at the end of the month, so that in the future there is no growth that does not have time to ripen. In September, I carry out foliar feeding with ash. I believe that it contributes to the final lignification of the plant, and it leaves in winter fully prepared. If it rains in August and September, then I feed with ash twice with an interval of 7 days. With the expectation that the winter will be harsh, around the plant I set a light frame at a height of 60-80 cm and fall asleep with foliage, having previously tied the trunk of the bush with spruce branches to protect it from rodents. Even if the tops freeze in winter, the main branches will remain. The harvest of fine fruits compensates for all labor costs.
  • Maria MOROZOVA, agronomist on Processing roses before hiding for hibernationSummer is not over yet, but it's time to think about wintering roses. In mid-August, for the last time this season, feed the bushes: add and seal under each 8-10 g of superphosphate and 4-5 g of potassium salt. Pinch the tops of strong shoots to control growth and woodiness. Reduce watering and loosening gradually. Do not cut out shoots so as not to provoke the growth of new ones.
  • Elena KUZMINA, agronomist on Rejuvenation, feeding perennials: August-SeptemberIn August, it would be good to draw pelargonium, fuchsia, rosemary, coleus, surfinia, heliotrope, balsam. Such plants take up much less space on the windowsills in winter. And while preserving especially valuable varieties, this will help insure against the death of older specimens in the winter. For rooting, I recommend a ready-made commercial substrate or a mixture of vermiculite, brown peat and sphagnum moss (3: 1: 2).
  • Irina GURIEVA, researcher sotr. FNTS them. Michurina, Michurinsk on Coniferous trees and shrubs - planting and pruning, varieties and typesAt the end of August, it's time to cut thujas, cypresses, spruces and junipers. Cut heel cuttings from well developed, semi-lignified shoots that have grown this year. Root them in the greenhouse. Use a mixture of peat and sand (1: 1) as a soil. Cover the "kids" with spruce branches for the winter, and transplant them to a permanent place in the spring.
  • Svetlana POLUKHINA on DIY iridarium - place and conditionsWherever you buy irises: in the store in packaging or from collectors, take a good look at the deal. The rhizome should be strong, without damage. If you find mold, stains, soft areas - do not take it better. The larger the rhizome, the more actively the plant will develop. But keep in mind that different varieties of fans can be of different sizes: the higher and more powerful the iris, the larger the cut. In dwarf irises, respectively, the fans will be small.
  • Svetlana SAMOILOVA, flower blogger, Moscow on Rejuvenation, feeding perennials: August-SeptemberFor many of my flowering pets, the menu in August is an infusion of ash or double superphosphate (according to the instructions). I feed all plants with ash except hydrangeas, rhododendrons and heather. For a bright and lush flowering of gladioli, as soon as the first buds appear, I water the plantings with a solution of 2 tbsp. superphosphate and 1 tbsp. l. potassium sulfate per 10 liters of water. I pour out a bucket for 1 sq.m.
  • Irina KUDRINA on White flower or leukoyum (photo) - planting and careWhite flower - mainly flowering in gardens is grown in late spring and early summer. This culture can be planted from July to September to a depth of 5-10 cm with an interval of 10-15 cm. This unpretentious plant will "ask for" for transplanting only after 5-7 years.
  • Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous) on Colchicum colchicum: planting and care (photo)Colchicum (colchicum). In mid-August, you can plant (for flowering in the same autumn) its large bulbs - to a depth of 20 cm with an interval of 10-15 cm. Plant small bulbs more often, to a depth of 8-12 cm (they will delight with flowering next fall). The overgrown curtains are divided every 6-7 years, but so that the inflorescences do not become smaller, it is better to carry out this procedure every 2-3 years.
  • V. Surin on Cultivation of remontant strawberry Elizabeth II - my feedbackFor many years I have been growing garden strawberries on the site. Favorite variety - Honey. The berries are beautiful, large, dense, shiny. Very sweet. The variety is super early, resistant to diseases, not affected by gray rot. Long-term fruiting and high yield. I am also pleased with other varieties - these are Crown, Figaro, Zenga Zengana, but the remontant Ostara is not happy. In the fall of last year, I bought seedlings of the varieties Khonei, Kama, Festivalnaya, Elizabeth II from private traders on the market, let's see what happens - they are often deceived. I plant strawberries in rows in a well-lit area. Between the rows I cover with cardboard - excellent weed protection. I cover the soil under the bushes with wood shavings or small grass from the lawns. As a result, moisture does not evaporate so quickly, besides, after the rain, the berries remain clean and do not rot. In early spring, when the earth dries up, I remove last year's dry foliage from the strawberry plantation, and feed the plants with a solution of chicken manure (1:10) at the rate of 1 liter per bush. I loosen the soil a little and sprinkle it with wood ash - such a top dressing gives an increase in green mass. When flowers appear, as well as in mid-August, I feed again with a solution of chicken manure. In the spring, at the first frost, I cover it with a covering material. I water regularly throughout the season, so my strawberries do not get sick and give a bountiful harvest.
  • Irina Yaremenko on Flower colchicum (cedar) - photos, planting and carePlanting the crocus plant At the end of August I plant the crocus bulbs to a depth of 5-15 cm at a distance of 20 cm from each other. I choose a dry, sunny site (in the shade, plants are attacked by slugs). I add 30 g of superphosphate and 2 tbsp. To the soil. wood ash per 1 sq.m. Plants bloom already in this season, when cold and rain come (at the end of October). Flowering lasts a month. You can also grow a crocus from seeds that ripen during the period of leaf dying off, in June. I immediately sow the collected seeds in open ground (pre-soak for 10-15 minutes).
  • Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous) on Cultivation of the bones (photo) planting and care, questions and answersWhat color is August? Everyone will say - golden, like a wheat field. And for me this month is associated with purple: this is how the fluffy umbellate inflorescences of the beloved spotted sapling are painted. My stethoscope blooms profusely, because in the spring, in April, I planted it in a sunny place with a loose, nutritious soil. As it grew, I tied the plant to a support - a strong gust of wind can easily break the stems. Bone sap is so hygrophilous that its rhizome is not afraid of stagnant water. He does not need formative pruning, but to prevent self-seeding, I prune the wilted inflorescences before the ripe seeds fall to the ground. During the season, I feed the steak three times: in April, June and August. You can use weakly concentrated solutions of bird droppings or mullein, but it is better to apply complex mineral fertilizers to the trunk circle (according to the instructions).
  • Olga KAPYLOVA on Anemones (photos) planting and careLight, airy anemones never cease to amaze with a variety of shapes and colors. Delicate flowers adorn my garden from late August to late autumn. For a hybrid anemone, the main thing is to determine the correct planting site. The plot was chosen sunny, protected from drafts, with moist, loose fertile soil. Of course, the plant also develops well on sandy soil, but it will not be massive, with large buds, and it is unlikely to please with abundant flowering. The secret of long blooming of my anemones is autumn feeding. In early September, when it is still dry and warm, I dilute a complex mineral fertilizer (according to the instructions) in clean, settled water and water the bushes at the root. After 2-3 days, I pour a handful of wood ash under each plant. After the end of flowering, I cut the stems almost to the very ground. For the winter, I must cover the tender anemones with a layer of dry leaves and spruce paws.
  • Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous) on Caring for indoor flowers and house plants from A to ZHATIORA Brought home a dry, long-broken twig. I planted her in universal soil with sand. Sprayed 2-3 times a day, did not water. After 3 weeks, roots appeared. Then she transplanted the plant into nutrient soil. In less than 2 months, the hatiora took root. Now she grows in the same pot with a young red-sula. By the way, this is convenient - saving space, and effective. Moreover, the care for them is similar: do not flood and more light.
  • Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous) on Fir monochrome (photo) varieties, planting and careLove conifers, but you have a small area? Pay attention to the compact decorative fir, which height is within 3 m. I decorated my small garden with low-growing slow-growing Korean fir varieties Silberlock (also called "silver curl") and Luminetta. With proper and regular care, their annual growth ranges from 5 to 10 cm, and their height ranges from 1,5 to 3,5 m. These plants are very decorative: they are abundantly strewn with cones of blue-purple, violet-blue flowers. In leaving, Korean firs are unpretentious and can withstand frosts down to -30 degrees.
  • Nikolay ERMIKOV, Bryansk on Tui: planting and care, varieties and species.Collecting thuja cones In late August and early September, I collect unopened thuja cones (earlier - in city parks, now - from my trees). I lay it out on paper and dry it. As soon as the cone opens, I shake out the seeds and immediately sow (the longer they lie, the worse their germination). I mix garden soil with peat and sand (2: 4: 1), level and compact the garden bed. I make grooves every 5-6 cm, 2 cm deep and 1 cm wide. I evenly spread the seed at a distance of 1 cm from each other, sprinkle it with a layer of earth about 1 cm on top and press it lightly with my hand. If it's dry, I water the soil, then cover the crops with foil. In the spring, in the process of melting the snow, I put pegs under the film so that it does not touch the ground. With the emergence of shoots, I remove the shelter. Once a month I feed it with a solution of complete mineral fertilizer (according to the instructions). I will definitely shade from the sun. To a permanent place After the next wintering, I plant the seedlings in a semi-shady place. I pre-dig the plot, scattering a bucket of humus, 45 g of nitrophosphate and 250 g of wood ash per 1 sq. M. When planting, I leave the root collar at ground level.
  • Tamara GOLTSEVA on How to determine what is missing a rose? (nutrition deficiency)In the summer the queens of the flower garden gave me abundant blooms. Now is the time to thank them with a restorative feeding. In September, roses need only phosphorus and potash fertilizers. No nitrogen - this element forces flowers to actively grow green mass. Shoots that appear in the fall will not have time to ripen by winter and will eventually freeze out. I ALWAYS PLAN THE AUTUMN FEEDING TILL SEPTEMBER 20. Later it becomes cold, the earth loses heat, and because of this, plant roots absorb nutrients worse. 1 tbsp I dissolve potassium magnesium or double superphosphate in 8 liters of hot water (but not boiling water!). In dry weather, I water the bushes abundantly with settled water heated in the sun. If it rained the day before, then you do not need to additionally moisturize the roses. To prevent burns from the solution on the leaves, I apply fertilizer under the root. After feeding, I powder the bushes with wood ash and mulch with peat.
  • Olesya GLEBOVA, Kursk. on Sowing lawn from A to Z - advice from a candidate of scienceI think every summer resident dreams of a lawn that does not need to be mowed all the time. After all, there are enough worries in the flower garden. An ideal option for landscaping the site is subulate bryozoan (Irish moss). This perennial plant is similar to moss. The leaves are small, needle-like. In summer, during flowering, tiny white flowers appear with a subtle pleasant smell. I have bryozoans of the varieties Lime Moss (with yellow leaves) and Green Moss (with emerald foliage) growing on my site. They complement my rockery perfectly. For reproduction in the first half of September, I cut off a piece of turf with a sharp knife and transplant it into pre-prepared pits about 15 cm deep at a distance of 20-40 cm. The branchy creeping stems of Irish moss take root easily.
  • Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous) on Braglia (photo) planting and care of the flowerBrovallia is beautiful For summer flowering, seeds are sown in early spring, but more often this purple beauty gets tighter blooming. In the summer, keep the plant at a temperature of +22 degrees, with a suction on a sunny balcony. Under direct rays, the leaves wither, dry, the flowers lose their bright color. Do not let the substrate dry out. In the heat, spray brovallia 2-3 times a day, but not in the sun. Feed once every 10 days with liquid complex fertilizer - and you will receive a luxurious flowering in gratitude.
  • Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous) on Madagascar jasmine - Growing and caring for the plantUsually old inflorescences are removed in summer, but I do this in September during sanitary pruning. To keep the bushes compact and look well-groomed, I shorten too long shoots by 1/2. To prevent disease, I spray the plants with a solution of copper sulfate (200 g / 10 l of water). They will endure the winter well, because at the beginning of autumn I scatter 1-20 g of superphosphate and 25-10 g of potassium sulfate in the near-trunk circles at the rate of 15 square meter and carefully put it into the soil.
  • Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous) on Planting lilacs in the fall - technology, timing and rulesIn the first month of autumn, I carry out sanitary pruning: I remove the damaged ones. dried, old branches and nondescript shoots, spoiling the view of the shrub. Be sure to cut out all root growth. I put 15-25 kg of compost into the trunk circle (you can replace it with the same amount of rotted manure). I also add dolomite flour (500 g / mXNUMX).
  • OOO "Sad" on Black patch of roses - how to fight- Indeed, at the beginning of autumn, dark brown or black spots may appear on the upper side of the leaves of roses. Affected leaves turn yellow and fall off prematurely. To get rid of black spot, first collect and burn the fallen diseased leaves. Then, twice with an interval of 7-10 days, treat the bush with Bordeaux liquid (100 g / 10 l of water).
  • Anna Kovoleva on Black patch of roses - how to fightA neighbor says that in September roses often get sick with black spot. What if the queen of the flower garden suffers from this misfortune?
  • OOO "Sad" on Their phloxes from their seeds (Photo)- With seed reproduction, perennial phloxes lose varietal characteristics - children will differ in color from their parents. If that doesn't matter to you, try experimenting. But remember: phlox seeds lose their germination very quickly, so it is better not to store them until next year. By the way, phlox grown from seeds are more resistant to adverse weather conditions than those obtained from cuttings or by dividing a bush.
  • Antonina Voronova on Their phloxes from their seeds (Photo)On a specialized forum I read advice on how to grow phlox from seeds. In early September, you need to cut off the dried inflorescences from a beautiful bush and put them in a box. When the seed pods are cracked, select the largest seeds and in November sow them in open ground on the soil surface, lightly sprinkling with earth. Amicable shoots will appear in the spring. When the seedlings stretch up to 8-10 cm, it's time to dive. Should such an experiment be carried out?
  • OOO "Sad" on Growing blueberries - pruning and protection against frost, disease and pests- Apparently, your spruce is affected by the mushroom disease shute. The main reasons for this misfortune are stagnant water, lack of sunlight, and infection). (spruce grows in a shaded place) and planting thickening. To save your tree, follow this plan: Remove all fallen needles (it is better to burn it, as it is a source of - Treat the spruce with "Topsin-M" (60 g / 10 l of water), "Fundazol" (60 g / 10 l of water) or Bordeaux liquid (100 g / 10 l of water). Also, for prevention, spray other conifers on the site. Next season, in late May-early June, spray the tree again with the indicated preparations. In more advanced cases, repeat the treatment even in the middle of summer, when the spores of the pathogen fungus begin to ripen 0 In June and July, feed the spruce with a special fertilizer for conifers (according to the instructions).
  • Ilona Makarenko on Growing blueberries - pruning and protection against frost, disease and pestsMy blue spruce is disappearing: the needles turn brown, dry and fall off. What is the reason? Can a tree be saved?
  • OOO "Sad" on Planting phlox - master class and photo- Phlox with an open root system can be safely planted in early autumn, when growth buds are already laid. For the middle lane, this is the end of August-September. Or they postpone work until early spring. Before planting, I usually dig the soil onto a shovel bayonet. I choose rhizomes of weeds and put in well-rotted humus or compost. Be sure to add complex mineral fertilizers (according to the instructions), ash (a handful under a bush), a little lime (needed if the soil is acidic). On insufficiently good land, I advise you to make a planting hole 40x40 cm and fill it with fertile soil. The stems of phlox planting in autumn should be cut off by a third of the length. Place in the garden The most beautiful and less susceptible to fungal diseases phlox grow in a sunny, well-ventilated place. Moreover, solar lighting should be at least 6 hours a day. The ideal soil for planting is loam. I have sandy loam soil, which requires more frequent watering. And phloxes should not dry out, especially in May, during the growth of the aerial part and the formation of the bush. I water it evenly, to the full depth of root growth. It is very good to mulch plantings with phlox cut grass or tree bark. Gennady LITAVRIN, plant collector, Moscow
  • Angelina Sholokhova on Planting phlox - master class and photoCan phlox be transplanted at the end of summer? It is somehow scary to do this, because at this time they are still blooming.
  • OOO "Sad" on Daylily division and transplantation - personal experience- Daylily quite often releases single stolons to the side of the bush, but it takes time for them to grow a normal root system. Many people immediately cut off such a fan with a shovel, hoping to get a full-fledged plant. However, before separating, you need to make sure whether such a division has its own roots. To do this, gently scrape off the ground around the leaves. Better yet (to be sure!) Wait until May next year and transplant the young plant to a new place. Evgeny SAPUNOV
  • Alina Sleptsova on Daylily division and transplantation - personal experienceIs it possible to cut off a fan growing separately from the main bush from the daylily in autumn?
  • OOO "Sad" on Plants ephemeroids (photo) - flowers of the cranberry and KandykYou need to buy Corydalis in late summer and early autumn. Choose strong tubers. Avoid soft, moldy, and dry ones. They were most likely damaged by improper storage. Plant immediately after purchase to prevent the tubers from drying out. The landing site should be in shade or partial shade. Corydalis grow well under deciduous trees, but the shadow cast by evergreens is not suitable for them. The soil is needed permeable, rich in humus. Therefore, when planting, you need to add compost and preferably / non-acidic peat. An exception is Kashmirskaya Corydalis, it requires acidic soil. Before the start of frost, cover the planting site with foliage or brushwood. In the spring, the mulch needs to be renewed. The soil under the plants should always be mulched. Vladimir GEORGENSON, landscape designer, Moscow
  • Elizaveta Poddubskaya on Plants ephemeroids (photo) - flowers of the cranberry and KandykWhen and where is it better to plant Corydalis? Are tubers bought in bulk from a large box at the store viable?
  • Rita BRILLIANTOVA on Coreopsis whorled (photo) varieties, planting and careTo please yourself with spectacular flower arrangements in the garden, plant perennials, for example, coreopsis, in flowerpots, in addition to annuals. Recognized container specimens - COREPOSIS whorled and undersized varieties COREPOSIS large-flowered. The bushes tolerate planting in containers well even in a flowering state, with a clod of earth. In contrast to the content of coreopsis in the open field, when they are fed with a complex mineral fertilizer for flowering species once a month, the frequency of feeding can be increased up to 2 times a week. And you will have to water more often.
  • Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous) on Alissum seedlings and seeds - careLobularia, or alyssum, grows and blooms best in open, sunny places. Does not tolerate excess moisture and prolonged drought. Almost any soil is suitable for it. The seeds of this annual are sown directly in open ground to a permanent place in the spring. But in recent winters in the middle lane, the plant sows beautifully by itself. Therefore, for the first time it can be sown before winter, and in the future you only need to leave faded bushes in the garden - for self-seeding. It is important to ensure that the plantings are sparse, otherwise the plants will bloom poorly and powdery mildew may develop on them. In the treatment of Infusion for colds and coughs: 1 tbsp. dry herbs pour 250 ml of boiling water, leave for 1 hour, strain. Drink 75-100 ml 3 times a day.
  • Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous) on Labaznik (photo) - cultivation and useMeadowsweet - useful properties It grows well in the sun and in partial shade, but is picky about moisture. It is better to plant near water bodies in light loamy or sandy loam soil with the addition of humus. The reaction of the soil is slightly acidic. In drought, the plant needs abundant watering, especially on sandy soil. The plant rhizome is divided in late August-early September or spring. Complete cuttings - with 2-3 buds and roots. Meadowsweet seeds are best sown before winter. In the treatment of Infusion for gastric and duodenal ulcers, as well as colds: 12 tbsp. dry flowers pour 1 liters of boiling water and leave for 0,5 hours, drain. Drink 3/1 tbsp. 4 times daily before meals. Infusion for wounds and acne: 4 tbsp. dry herbs pour 5 liters of boiling water, leave for 0,5 hours, drain. Wash the affected areas, make lotions. Infusion for skin diseases and eye inflammation: 3 tbsp. Pour 2 ml of cold water over raw rhizomes, leave for 200 hours, boil for 6 minutes, drain. Wash the affected areas. The powder of dried flowers is sniffed with a cold, they are sprinkled with ulcers.
  • Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous) on Do-it-yourself lawn in the country: care, sowing, etc. from A to ZProper autumn care of a green lawn will help her to endure all winter hardships. Watering.In the fall, there is often drought and. to prevent the grass from turning yellow, water the lawn every 5-7 days. At the same time, sprinkling is more effective. But it is important to avoid waterlogging of the soil, which can cause fungal diseases of cereals. They stop watering in the first decade of October - this will enable the lawn to adapt to changing conditions Irina KUDRINA, plant collector, Voronezh viyam and better prepare for winter. Aeration, or soil piercing. This measure improves the air permeability of the soil, which stimulates the development of the roots of cereals, creates additional protection of the grass from freezing in winter, since the air has a low thermal conductivity. And during prolonged rains, this technique eliminates stagnation of water on the surface of the lawn. There are special aerators (like lawn mowers). But in a small area, you can get by with a garden pitchfork, burying the teeth in the soil half the length. You need to make as many of these holes as possible. This procedure should be carried out after rain or watering. For the next two to three days, it is important not to walk on the grass.