Recent Comments gardeners and gardeners:

  • Lyudmila FEDOROV, Voronezh region on Tradescantia garden (PHOTO) - cultivation and careIn the spring, at the market, while buying petunia seedlings, I liked another flower (its sprouts were sold in cups). It turned out that it was Tradescantia. I took her too. My husband made a canopy over the porch, which I decided to plant trees and shrubs - attach planters with petunias to the supports. I bought hanging pots, which have a flat back wall and holes for mounting. I left a couple of the same containers for tradescantia. She settled down after a couple of weeks. And every week it grew, eventually forming green balls with leaves of a rich green-violet color. At some point, I realized that tradescantia looked much more interesting against the background of petunias. By the way, the petunias did not like it on the porch with moderate light. Already in the middle of summer, their flowering faded, the leaves turned yellow. To save the plants, I transplanted the roots into open ground in a sunny place. But Tradescantia, on the contrary, felt like mistresses on the summer terrace. Therefore, tradescantia was sent to the pots vacated after the transplantation of petunias, dividing the bush into cuttings. The plant continued to bush, forming luxurious green balls. At the same time, flower care was minimal - regular watering and fertilizing with a liquid solution of complex mineral fertilizer once every 10 days. With the onset of autumn cold weather, she took Tradescantia into the house, put it on the windowsills. The plants are doing great.
  • OOO "Sad" on Celandine - useful properties about which few people know- Celandine for compost (which, in fact, is a warm high bed) is the same plant as the others. In the process of decay, all biologically active substances in it are decomposed by microbes. Therefore, pumpkins can be grown. The only limitation may be the presence of seeds on plants. They remain viable for many years, so the compost with seeds will be a source of weeds. If you know that weeds with seeds could get into a high bed, it is advisable to shed it now with a solution of ammonium nitrate or urea (100-200 ml per 1 sq.m). For the future, keep in mind: when laying such a bed on top of the weeds, you can make fresh manure (a bucket per 1 sq.m). A large amount of nitrogen will contribute to the rapid decay of the grass. The compost will warm up to +50...+60 degrees, while the weed seeds will die.
  • Vitaly Kornilov on Celandine - useful properties about which few people knowIn autumn, they laid a high bed for pumpkins and put a lot of green tops of celandine in it. This is dangerous? After all, celandine is poisonous. Is it possible to grow pumpkins in this garden next year?
  • OOO "Sad" on Forcing green onions to the New Year's table - planting your greens for the New Year- In autumn, the onion is in a state of deep dormancy, so all its growth processes are suppressed. The bulb begins to grow actively at the end of this period, closer to winter. To speed up the process of the bulbs coming out of dormancy, they need to be cut off at the shoulders - this is 1-2 cm from the crown. Another way to increase the yield is to feed the onions with a weak solution of ammonium nitrate (1 tsp per 5 liters of water). Nitrogen fertilizers stimulate growth processes. In addition, before planting, the bulbs can be heated for 3-5 hours at a temperature of +40 degrees. But the result will be much better if you take bulbs for forcing that have already begun to germinate, that is, they have already come out of dormancy. But it is better not to use store onions for distillation. Most often, before harvesting, it is treated with growth inhibitors so that the bulbs do not germinate during storage. Therefore, a purchased onion will give greens extremely reluctantly.
  • Maria Sorokina, Smolensk on Forcing green onions to the New Year's table - planting your greens for the New YearI put onions for forcing. But it grows poorly, the feathers are pale, there are few of them (only 2-3 on each bulb). What am I doing wrong?
  • OOO "Sad" on Growing microgreens on a windowsill - which vegetables are suitable?“Specialized microgreen seeds are indeed overpriced as it is a healthy lifestyle trend. To save money, you can use any seeds with good germination and not treated with pesticides - food cereals, green manure. But keep in mind that cereals crushed and dried under the influence of temperature are not suitable for germination. But whole grains you can try to germinate. Siderates - wheat, rye, oats, mustard, rapeseed - can be bought at a garden store. They grow well and are relatively inexpensive. You can also grow and collect the seeds of radish, radish, arugula yourself (just leave a couple of shot forged plants until autumn). The main thing is to collect them in time so that they do not crumble.
  • Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous) on Growing microgreens on a windowsill - which vegetables are suitable?I want to grow microgreens, but the seeds for it in specialized stores are expensive. Is there any way to save money? For example, use store-bought green buckwheat or some other unprocessed cereals for sowing? Olga Petrova
  • OOO "Sad" on Growing cucumbers at home - suitable varieties and personal experience- If your peppers did not hurt anything, then it is quite possible to use the soil from under them for growing other plants, except for nightshade (tomato, eggplant, physalis, sweet pepper). However, keep in mind that, most likely, pepper took out all the nutrients from this soil, so the earth must be thoroughly fertilized with organic and mineral components. Moreover, cucumbers need fertile soil with a high content of organic matter. Therefore, if you reuse the earth, mix it with compost (3: 1), add 1 tbsp for each bucket of the mixture. any complex mineral fertilizer (Azofoska, Aquarin). To prevent diseases, spill the soil with Fitosporin diluted according to the instructions before use.
  • Alla Panova, Ivnya on Growing cucumbers at home - suitable varieties and personal experienceIs it possible to use the soil in which hot peppers grew on the windowsill to grow indoor cucumbers?
  • Alexander DUKHANOV, Moscow on Second-year parsley (after wintering) and its harvestingI love parsley very much. To provide himself with her greens for almost the whole year (with the exception of the snowy months), he acquired root parsley. The root winters well in the ground, and in the spring, immediately after the snow melts, fresh greens begin to grow. At this moment, I add humus (a bucket for 1 running meter) and superphosphate (1 tbsp for 1 running meter) between the rows. I close everything into the soil with a flat cut. I collect the very first harvest in April. I try to trim the leaves more often - this stimulates the parsley to grow more actively. For the second season at the end of summer, root parsley gives seeds and crumbles right there, in the garden. Shoots then just thin out.
  • L. LARIONOVA, Kursk on Cultivation of varicoloured varieties of carrotsOnce I saw a purple carrot from a neighbor. Fired up! I ordered different seeds in the winter, I didn’t say anything to my own. Sow as usual. And now it's time to harvest. Husband Nikolai pulls out a purple root crop and does not understand: “Lucy, look, our carrots are all sick!” Oh, and I laughed for a long time. The next year he asked me to plant an ordinary, “healthy” one, but my grandchildren appreciated my experiments! Dark varieties: Purple Dragon and Purple Haze, white varieties: Belgian White and Moonlight White. This season I will grow red and yellow - I really liked to surprise my relatives. I wish all summer residents rich harvests and good health!
  • Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous) on How to root chubuki grapes - my experience and tipsIn the fall, after the leaves fall, we cut the chibouks (everyone knows how). We bring them home and put them in a three-liter jar with settled water (water is a little less than half the jar). We put it on the window (no matter which one - north or south). When white roots appear on them, let them stand until these roots get stronger and change color to brown. When the time comes to plant, we plant the chibouks in a permanent place without fear that the roots will break off in the prepared pits. At first we shade, and they quickly gain strength. Leaves are not removed.
  • Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous) on Turn (photo) cultivation and reproduction + useful properties and do-it-yourself liquorSomehow, five years ago, I saw a bush strewn with blue berries in an abandoned area. Childhood memories flooded back: after the war, I lived with my grandfather for two years in a village in the Voronezh region. Blackthorn bushes grew along the edge of the ravine - juicy, sweet and sour berries with bitterness. I tracked down the owner and asked permission to take layers. And now two small seedlings settled on my site. They grew fast and bloomed within a few years. What a beauty! The tree is as if covered with a fluffy white blanket. But during the flowering period, a cold snap always occurs, and there were no ovaries. The turn pleased with berries a year later. They were few, but I experienced joy. But last year just made me happy: bushes three meters high were literally strewn with berries! On the upper branches, the birds pecked them green - they had to be covered. Everything was used: lutrasil, film, tulle ... Saved. It seemed that there were more berries than leaves! The berries are blue with a bluish bloom, the branches bend under their weight. I recommend it to everyone - you won't regret it. Only when planting should be taken into account that the tree gives a lot of layering. They grow even at some distance.
  • OOO "Sad" on Onions: cultivation, photos, properties and features- Usually, chives begin to be driven out already in October (possibly later). After transplanting, it is enough to put it in the basement for about a month or a little more. The plant is cold-resistant, so in winter it can be grown even on insulated balconies. Chives are very fond of organic feeding - every week you can add 1 tsp. humus or compost under the plant. Water regularly, without over-wetting the soil and not allowing it to dry out, otherwise the feathers will be rough. Be sure to loosen the potted soil after each watering. On the southern window sill, ordinary daylight is enough for chives, but on cloudy days it is advisable to illuminate the plants for an hour in the morning and evening.
  • Kirill Drozdov on Onions: cultivation, photos, properties and featuresI transplanted chives into pots, cut them off, leaving small stumps. As long as it's in the basement. When to bring to light? How to care?
  • OOO "Sad" on Growing basil in the home and in the garden- Most likely, the problem is in care. Let's see where we could go wrong. Basil loves when the room is from +21 to +24 degrees. If it is much cooler, then it will not work to grow greens. It is better to water the basil every day with small volumes of water, and if the apartment is very dry, then you also need to spray the plants from a spray bottle. If the room is cool and the humidity is normal, then it is enough to water the plants every two to three days. Sunlight is necessary for the basilica at least 12 hours a day. Therefore, on cloudy days, do-glow is a must! You also need nutritious soil, so apply biohumus or Agrolife 1 tsp every three weeks. under the bush Pinch off the top of the head after the basil has formed three pairs of leaves. At the same time, cut the stem a little higher than the small leaf blades that will appear from the sinuses.
  • Anna Mukhina on Growing basil in the home and in the gardenI took the basil from the garden, transplanted it into a pot. At first it began, young twigs appeared, grew well. But then the leaves began to turn and turn yellow. What is the reason?
  • OOO "Sad" on Trimming and turfing near-trunk circles instead of digging them - tested BETTER!- It is not necessary to remove the fabric to loosen the soil: the ground under such a mulch is already quite loose. The fabric under the crown of the tree will not bring him any harm. There is no need to remove it for the winter: thanks to the vital activity of microorganisms, it will gradually decompose and turn into organic matter. Valery MATVEEV, Doctor of Agricultural Sciences
  • Tatyana Ivanovich, Petrozavodsk on Trimming and turfing near-trunk circles instead of digging them - tested BETTER!In summer, to protect against weeds, I cover the soil under the crown of trees with a black cloth (within a radius of 2 m). Fertilizers are applied to the grooves. Because of this shelter, I do not loosen the ground under fruit trees. This is bad? Do I need to remove the shelter for the winter?
  • Vera LIPAI on Aronia chokeberry: planting and care, + recipe for wine from chokeberryCABBAGE WITH ARKHOME 200 g chokeberry, 400 g red cabbage, 1 beetroot, 3 tsp. sugar, 1 tsp salt, 60 ml of vinegar, 60 ml of vegetable oil. Cabbage shredded, raw beet rubbed on a coarse grater. Pour cabbage into a deep frying pan over hot oil, mix, add grated beets, rowan berries, sugar, salt, vinegar and carcass over low heat for about an hour. I serve as a side dish for meat.
  • Alexey on Useful properties and use of the most common weeds - tipsWe have a large plot, our hands simply do not reach the far corners, and age makes itself felt. On the train, one woman said that she dug up unused places and sowed some kind of magical mixture that displaces weeds. It includes flowers - annuals and perennials - and some plants. Now everything blooms with a carpet, there is no jungle of weeds. Can you tell us more about this interesting herbal mixture?
  • Irina on Asparagus beans (photo) planting and care - reviews of varieties Laura and LibraI hope knowledgeable people will answer me, because I myself am engaged in the garden of me i
  • Anna on Prevention of tomatoes from late blight is my wayIs it possible to overcome phytophthora? Phytophthora has been raging on my site for several years now: it is impossible to grow either potatoes or tomatoes. I change places of landing to observe crop rotation. Whatever I tried - herbal infusions, garlic and onion husks, nettles, ash, store-bought "medicines" for phytophthora - all to no avail. Does it make sense to try something else? Respond, who has the same problem: what did you do, what methods did you use? Please write in detail how, with what and when to cultivate the land. The area is small.
  • T.V. SHAKUROV Kaluga on Ways to grow strawberries for beginners1. Strawberries bloom well, and berries form on the lower tier. The upper ones are tied, but remain very small and dry out. I feed and water in a timely manner, what is wrong with my strawberries? 2. In the greenhouse, when planting seedlings, I put rotted compost in the hole, and in the fall, when I dig out the roots, I find white mold on them. Should we fight it, and how? Help advice.
  • Zinaida on Feeding with fish, nettles and salt my feedback after the experimentI have a question for experienced summer residents who grow raspberries and currants. I read that fresh nettles are laid in the hole before planting raspberry and currant seedlings. In another I find information that nettles and raspberries are incompatible, and before planting raspberries, it is necessary to remove all nettles at the place of future planting. So who do you believe? I ask experienced gardeners to respond. How and with what to fill the pits for planting raspberries and currants? What role does nettle play, how is it useful or harmful to raspberries? Thank you in advance.
  • Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous) on Honeysuckle: autumn planting is better!Honeysuckle bushes can be grown using cuttings by placing each of them in a separate glass of water with a root stimulant dissolved in it. With the advent of roots, we transplant the cuttings into the ground, shading them for the first time.
  • Nikolay Borisovich TALEIKIN. on Planting pepper with feathers - my reviewsVladimir Ivanovich from Barnaul asked about "Fluff as a fertilizer." I dig up the earth with a downy feather or simply put it in a compost heap to saturate the compost mass with useful elements. Before using the feathers, they must be soaked - F with water, otherwise they will scatter over the entire area. Old unnecessary feather pillows can either be left out in the rain, or, by opening the seam from one £ edge, spilling the feathers with several buckets of water.
  • Rouse on Means against carrot flyLarisa Voronova from the Chelyabinsk region. asks when to process carrots and onions from fly larvae. We water with a solution of celandine (1:10) a month and half a month before harvesting. By the way, it also helps in the fight against slugs. With the same solution, we pour strawberries instead of watering with plain water and cabbage over heads (from slugs and caterpillars). Sofia Orlova (Moscow region) asks how to deal with weeds. Cover the ground where there are a lot of weeds with any opaque material - old linoleum, plywood, iron sheets, etc. Even perennial weeds will disappear and rot during the summer period. Also, the earth will become loose.
  • Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous) on Planting pepper with feathers - my reviewsVladimir Ivanovich K. from the city of Barnaul asks how to use down-feathers. A handful of feathers can be placed in the holes when planting tomatoes, cucumbers, pumpkins, zucchini, cabbage, peppers. I will write how I grew peppers last year. In the prepared holes I put a handful of feathers, dried potato peels, dry banana peels and ash. I mixed all this, added humus, watered and planted seedlings. After planting, the entire surface was mulched with horse humus. I watered all summer from a watering can and did not feed the peppers with anything else. A total of 40 roots were planted. On each plant, I grew 5-6 fruits weighing 600-800 g. It's a pity - there were photographs, but I changed the phone, and they remained in the old one. I don’t know what variety, the neighbor Lyudmila Petrovna gave peppers for seeds. With pleasure I will share recipes for blanks from hot peppers.
  • Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous) on Tomato seedlings in 5 liter bottles instead of a greenhouse (Tver region)About planting in separate holes, about mud when watering, about the fact that you have to dig in two or three steps (although, I think, no one digs a bed so many times), and talks about his agricultural technology. I don't see any difficulty. In the greenhouse I plant only tall tomatoes, and in open beds, undersized and medium varieties. I dig, make holes with a shovel, add vermiculite, ash, 1 tsp. superphosphate, mix everything with my hand and plant the seedlings to the depth of the cup in which it grew. Immediately I drop a plastic bottle with the neck cut off at the bottom, and I fall asleep with my hands. I water and feed directly into the bottle - nutrition immediately goes to the roots of tomatoes. There is no dirt, and it is not necessary to loosen, since the earth is not compacted. I put the arcs, I put on the film. Everything is very simple and fast. And before, about six years ago, when I didn’t use bottles, I simply spudded tomatoes along the garden, and I got two ditches into which I watered. Yes, you need to store stakes and bottles somewhere, but they do not take up much space. I fold the stakes, tie them up and put them behind the bathhouse. I also have a bookcase where I put the bottles. And since I have a lot of them, they are in two more bags of cat food. Places are kept to a minimum. I think everyone has some kind of nook. Five-liter bottles (they all come with handles) I string on a rope and hang on a fence
  • Olga KRASULINA, Perm on Mahonia papular (photo) planting, reproduction and careHolly mahonia is one of the few evergreen shrubs wintering in the middle lane, which undoubtedly makes it a welcome guest in the garden! I love the beauty for a spectacular appearance at any time of the year. In spring, it “flaunts” with bright yellow inflorescences, in summer - with juicy greenery, in autumn - with beautiful edible berries, and even in winter it does not lose its leafy decoration. In addition to all the decorative qualities, mahonia is also good because it is practically not damaged by pests and diseases. In addition, she is completely unpretentious. He likes partial shade and a place protected from the wind. Grows in any garden soil. Tolerates drought well. Winter-hardy. Of the care procedures, I only carry out shaping pruning after flowering and feed in the spring, embedding compost in the near-stem circle.
  • OOO "Sad" on Laurel (laurel tree) - growing care and breeding- The opinions of practitioners about the benefits of such fertilizer are contradictory. Some argue that it is useful, others say that there is practically no sense from it, but it does not bring any harm to plants. Therefore, you can try to give a "treat" to your green pets and see how they react. For cooking, take 4 large (or 5 medium) bay leaves and pour 1 liter of water, warmed to 80 degrees. The container is tightly closed with a lid and additionally wrapped with a blanket. Leave to infuse overnight. The minimum holding time is 3 hours. 5.4 hours Top dressing can be used once a month or with each watering, adding a small amount of ready-made fertilizer. According to the same scheme, spraying is carried out on the sheet. Nikolai KHROMOV, Ph.D. agricultural sciences
  • Inna. on Laurel (laurel tree) - growing care and breedingI heard about the benefits of feeding indoor and garden flowers with bay leaves. How to cook it?
  • OOO "Sad" on Growing heather (photo) planting and care, varietiesThese plants are similar in appearance. Their main difference is the timing of budding. If in the spring you are offered a flowering bush in a pot - this is Erica. In heather, buds appear in late summer or early autumn. Even after the end of flowering, they retain their former appearance, so the bushes delight gardeners until spring, until last year's inflorescences are cut. If you have to make a choice between two cultures, then keep in mind that heather is less capricious. It does not require shelter in frosts, it grows well on acidic soil. But Erica often drops out. This is due to the fact that supermarkets mainly sell specimens that do not winter well in the middle lane. Heathers of different varieties have been living in my garden for five years now. I successfully propagated them and got a small heather garden. Bought Erica did not survive the second winter.
  • Anna Antonova on Growing heather (photo) planting and care, varietiesWhat is the difference between heather and erica? Which flower is less capricious in care?
  • OOO "Sad" on Fuchsia home (photo) conditions for growing, care and reproduction- In late autumn and winter, due to lack of light and high air temperature, moreover, dry, fuchsia often sheds part or even all of its leaves. Move it to a lighter and, importantly, cool place (not higher than + 18 degrees), this will also be the key to successful flowering next season. Increase the humidity of the air and, if possible, install an additional illumination lamp. Although another option for wintering fuchsia is also possible: in a cool dark place (for example, in a basement at a temperature of + 5-7 degrees) in almost dry soil. In such conditions, it will completely shed its leaves. The appearance of a spider mite is noticeable by the yellowing and distorted shape of the leaves, the presence of barely noticeable thin cobwebs on their lower side. The pest is comfortable in dry hot air, it does not like wet and cool. Ticks can be washed off with a stream of cold water from the inside of the leaves, baths can be made by dipping the crown of fuchsia in a bucket of soapy water, after tightly tying the pot with earth in a film bag. After the plant is allowed to dry, and after 1-2 hours it is washed in the shower. When the leaves dry again, you can put it in a permanent place. BY THE WAY. It is necessary to work with fuchsia carefully, because it has fragile stems and leaf petioles. But the branches that still break off can be used for propagation: they are good. If the simplest measures do not help, use any of the preparations for processing: "Fitoverm", "Aktellik" or "Agrovertin" (according to instructions), spraying in the air after 7-10 days.
  • Kristina Valeeva, Nizhny Novgorod on Fuchsia home (photo) conditions for growing, care and reproductionOver the summer, in the conditions of a summer residence, she grew two fuchsias from cuttings, which she brought to the apartment with a cold snap. But suddenly the leaves began to turn yellow and fall off. Maybe a spider mite harms? What to do?
  • Gennady LITAVRIN, plant collector, Moscow on Eremurus (PHOTO) cultivation and care, planting and varieties, winteringMany flower growers believe that eremurus do not winter well, so they need to be dug up for the winter and stored in a cool place, and planted in the garden in the spring. I strongly disagree with this. My many years of experience in growing these unusual flowers showed that they are quite hardy. So, in one of the cold winters, I had several forgotten specimens of one of my favorite varieties left on the surface of the soil. I remembered them only in January, when there was no snow yet, and the frosts were down to -27 degrees. It was not possible to go to the dacha, and in April a surprise awaited me - quite alive and rooted to the soil of the Nedonets. All I had to do was cover them with earth. In the summer, these eremurus also bloomed, but a little later than the specimens planted on time. My beauties did not suffer from spring frosts. The main condition for growing eremurus is to choose the most sunny and dry place. I practically do not water my plants - they have enough natural rainfall. On sandy and sandy soils, they work especially well. When planting in clay areas, it is necessary to add sand to the soil or make a “cushion” under the root, and also pour it on top. From dressings I use only "Kemira Universal". I bring it in early in the spring in the snow (30-40 g / sq.m), as well as when preparing a new place for eremurus. I do not recommend using organic fertilizers, as they weaken the resistance of plants to diseases.
  • OOO "Sad" on If lilies degenerate - transplant will help- To save the bulbs until spring planting, place them in a cool place (lower drawer of the refrigerator, basement), shifting them with barely damp moss, sawdust, sand or just earth. Important! Do not store bulbs in plastic bags. It is better to wrap them in paper, cloth or put them in a cardboard box and periodically lightly spray the packaging material. Plants can be planted as soon as the soil thaws on the bayonet of a shovel. When determining the depth of planting, follow the rule: dig a hole to the height of three bulbs. Consider the mechanical composition of the soil. On light sandy loams they plant deeper, on heavy clay - smaller. The scales in the container can be covered with slightly damp peat and placed in the basement. In February-March, transfer to a warmer room and slightly moisten, and plant in open ground in spring.
  • Alina Volontsevich on If lilies degenerate - transplant will helpIt so happened that only in November they brought lily bulbs. What to do with them? When to plant? And even when transplanting old lilies, scales remained, I collected them in a box and left them under rags in a greenhouse. Plant them before spring in a greenhouse or in a container?
  • OOO "Sad" on Juniper - types, planting and care- Junipers grow well in an apartment, but on the indispensable condition that in winter you spray them daily with water (preferably with the addition of Healthy Garden granules - 2 kru-pinks / 1 liter of water) and keep them away from heating radiators. Phytoncides secreted by needles kill pathogenic microbes and viruses within a radius of up to 3-5 m. The resinous smell is useful, even pleasant, and no harm. When transplanting into a larger container, pebbles should be poured to the bottom, then sand and half filled with humus soil (no manure!). Put a plant carefully removed (without damaging the root ball) from the pot. Fill the void around with the prepared planting mixture. After that, it is good to water the coniferous. When moving the juniper around the apartment, try to maintain the orientation of the crown relative to the cardinal points (just tie a ribbon to the branch). The same should be done if for the summer you "grab" it with you to the country, and then take it back to the city. Feed your prickly pet once every three years by pushing 3-5 granules of AVA fertilizer along the entire length of your finger along the side of the pot, and annually sprinkle holiday spruce needles on top of the soil. Water moderately in winter, and increase the amount of water with the onset of spring. Spray daily - until the end of the heating season. Galina KIZIMA, author of books on gardening, St. Petersburg
  • Ludmila Starovoit, Pskov on Juniper - types, planting and careIs it possible and how harmful / beneficial for our health to keep juniper indoors? How to properly transplant his seedling from a container to a tub?
  • OOO "Sad" on Ito-peonies - description, photo, pros and cons- Many varieties of peonies have rather weak immunity - they get sick quickly, and it is difficult to treat them. And here it is clearly not enough just to remove the aerial part. Therefore, do not wait until the plants are completely covered with spots or mold. Take care of your bushes in early spring. Treat the plantings with a copper-containing contact preparation to kill overwintered spores. Sprinkle ash to the seedlings (1 tbsp. / Bush). In the process of growth (in May-June), use the systemic preparation "Chistotsvet" - for prevention or at the first signs of illness.
  • Alesya Konor, Ramenskoye on Ito-peonies - description, photo, pros and consLast season, some of the leaves on my peonies were spotted. I cut off the entire above-ground part in October and removed it from the site. Is there any hope that the bushes will be healthy next summer?
  • OOO "Sad" on Kerria Japanese - planting and care- This plant is thermophilic, freezing in cold winters. And before you decide to buy a seedling, think about whether you can satisfy all its requirements. The best place is a corner of the garden protected from the wind in partial shade. In the bright sun, the flowers fade. Kerria grows well on loam, especially if organic matter is added to the ground. Compost, soddy soil and peat should be added to sandy soil (3:2:2:1). The shrub is moisture-loving and needs regular watering, but is afraid of excess moisture. Watering in drought, especially on light soil, is required. It responds well to the annual application of organic matter (compost or rotted horse manure). Or 3 top dressings are given per season: in late April-early May, in the second half of June - complex, ash is poured in the fall, and after a couple of weeks autumn fertilizer is applied (for example, "Kemira"). Pruning is necessary, otherwise the bush thickens and loses its attractiveness. It can be formative, rejuvenating and sanitary. Remove any damaged branches regularly. Shorten the faded part of the shoots. This encourages re-blooming during the summer and early fall. Basal twigs are pinched to induce tillering. For the winter, the plant needs to be bent down and covered.
  • Alina Samsonenko, Pinsk on Kerria Japanese - planting and careI really like kerria, and by the spring I plan to buy her seedling. What are the basic rules to follow when growing a shrub, especially its terry form?
  • OOO "Sad" on Kaluzhnitsa (photo) - benefits and care- Can. The stems of the marigold fall to the ground under the weight of the flowers and form roots at the points of contact with the soil. This is the basis for plant propagation by layering. Bend the shoots to the ground in early spring and pin them with staples. Remember: the places where the stems touch the soil should always be wet, regularly spill them with water. Usually, after a month or two, the layers can already be separated from the mother bush and transplanted. I recommend mulching the soil around young rosettes with compost, peat, and old sawdust.
  • Anastasia Servitskaya, Yekaterinburg on Kaluzhnitsa (photo) - benefits and careIs it possible to propagate marigold by layering?
  • Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous) on Korean chrysanthemum (photo) care and varietiesAt the end of the growing season, cut the Korean chrysanthemum bushes to a height of 10 cm and remove the fallen leaves. Preventively, plants and the soil around can be treated with a 0,8% solution of copper oxychloride. As a shelter for the winter, plantings are mulched with earth with a layer of sand up to 20 cm, and spruce branches are placed on top for snow retention. Do not cover the bushes with leaves - they become caked, warm and can destroy chrysanthemums. These plants die more often from dampness than from frost. Cold and snowlessness can rather affect old plantings that need rejuvenation. By the way, you can try to root the cut shoots in the ground or wait for the roots in the water.
  • Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous) on Do-it-yourself jam and other sugar-free preparations - recipes and tipsI do not want to teach anyone - just share some of the subtleties of the process. For example, sterilization. There are different methods. Personally, I warm up pre-washed jars in the oven. But I never take them out right away: I let them cool a little without opening the door, otherwise they will burst. You can also sterilize jars in the microwave (7-10 minutes). In many recipes, it is recommended to prick fruits, fruits or berries for canning. Do you know the best way to do this? Stick 5-6 needles with their ears into a wine cork. You will get a prickly “hedgehog”, which will be convenient and fast for you to work with. My neighbor immediately, hot, boiled jam pours into jars. Under no circumstances should you do this! As a result, her berries float to the top, and the syrup remains at the bottom. And one more trick: in no case cover hot jam with a lid, because steam in the form of water drops will get into the jam and mold will subsequently appear.
  • Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous) on What vegetables can winter in the soil?Carrots should not be left in the garden for the winter. I left it, and in the spring I came, began to pull it out - but it was not there, only crusts. I will write how I do it. I dig a hole and line it with ferns. I put a tank, I also cover it with a fern, put carrots and beets, also a fern on top, and close it with a basin with a hole. Then I fall asleep with earth and slam with a shovel. I put a brick on top of the basin and cover with a film. All. I used to bury it in a pile with potatoes, but there were no carrots or beets: everything was eaten. I never wash carrots after picking. I'll come in the winter, dig it out, take as much as I need and close it again. Calm and good.
  • Valentina Sergeevna on Coniferous mulch: features of useI suffered, growing cabbage, fought with many pests. And fail every year. Once, when the cabbage began to grow, I decided to mulch it. Narwhal of steppe blue wormwood, chopped with secateurs and sprinkled around heads of cabbage (I have 200 of them). My granddaughter and I had to tear armfuls of wormwood every week, and cover the old one with new fresh mulch. Over the summer, a whole featherbed of wormwood formed! Sprinkled on top too. And immediately my cabbage was not liked by both crawling and flying pests. She grew up healthy, beautiful - zatlyadene. The slugs didn't even dare to approach her! But what if you try to mulch tomatoes and peppers with wormwood?
  • Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous) on Fighting pests in the garden and vegetable garden (bear, mole, slug) - folk remediesFor twelve years I have been learning to comprehend country wisdom. Some work and some still don't. I want to share my experience of fighting a bear. Easier nowhere! Make a windmill from an old fan. Attach the propeller to one end of the stick, and the tail to the other. Nail the windmill to the pole. It is constantly spinning and spinning and creates a vibration that is transmitted to the ground. D Two or three windmills for the entire site - and the problem is solved. Forget about bears.
  • Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous) on Black radish (photo) - planting and careIn the set of vegetable crops grown in gardens, winter black radish occupies a modest place, if not completely absent. And in the old days, radishes were sown a lot and collected in bags. True, the families of that time were numerous. Radishes, turnips, radishes are sown twice per season. I prefer the first half of summer: there is no cruciferous flea, the heat is great, as a rule, too, there is enough rain (in our area). I have a sowing depth of 1,5-2 cm, a distance of 10 cm in a row, I make 25 cm between rows, and this is not enough. The tops grow chic, shading each other. I don’t sow a lot, a couple of lines of 3-4 meters each. A long time ago, my great-grandmother made a simple radish dish, and everyone ate it willingly. The root crop is peeled, cut into thin slices and sprinkled with salt. It is necessary to pour a little table vinegar (9%) and sunflower oil. Let stand for a while, soak, then add water - and you can eat with black bread. She called this dish okroshka of Peter the Great. Everything was done by eye, the grandmother did not know any recipe. For those who have problems with the stomach and intestines, black radish can be replaced with a softer one - the Lobo variety.
  • Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous) on Fighting pests in the garden and vegetable garden (bear, mole, slug) - folk remediesMarigold. Use an infusion of them against aphids, plant next to strawberries against nematodes. Belena is black. Use infusions against aphids, spider mites, caterpillars. Spotted hemlock is used against young caterpillars and small beetle larvae. Elder. Against gooseberry moth, moth, codling moth, kidney mites, rats and mice. Cut off the branches and arrange in jars of water. Datura common - against aphids, suckers, spider mites and other pests. Dandelion officinalis. Use an infusion against sucking pests, aphids, mites, etc. Common tansy - against codling moth, sucker and flower beetle. Wormwood is used in the form of infusions and decoctions against the caterpillars of the codling moth and gooseberry moth. Real tobacco and shag are used in the form of infusions and decoctions against most pests.
  • Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous) on Fighting pests in the garden and vegetable garden (bear, mole, slug) - folk remediesI read a long time ago about the use of pine or spruce twigs 10-15 cm long. I planted potatoes in the holes, and my great-granddaughter threw them into each branch of the Christmas tree. Since then, I forgot about these bugs! I also plant black beans wherever possible, perhaps the beetle is also repelled by their smell. Now about the wireworm. It is known to prefer acidic soil. Green manures that deoxidize the soil helped me - white mustard, phacelia. After harvesting, I prepare the beds for spring - I dig longitudinal grooves and cover them with earth. From above on the ground, if it is sour, I sprinkle with dolomite flour or lime according to the norm. I sow mustard on the bed, and peas on the bed intended for cabbage. It is necessary to alkalize the earth only in the fall, otherwise the potato may “please” with scab. I leave green manure in the beds until spring. About the fight against moles. I read the advice: plant beans around the perimeter of the site. I planted it wherever possible - the moles annoyed me greatly. The benefits of beans are great: they absorb nitrogen from the air, enrich the soil, and go for processing in the fall. Molehills are no longer in sight. And more about slugs, also advice. I fill small jars from the food of great-grandchildren with cornmeal (1 tsp), put it on its side under cabbage leaves so that water does not get in - this is a must! Slugs love cornmeal, but not raw, and die after eating. Such jars can also be placed in strawberries.
  • Catherine on Recipes of decoctions and infusions against pests: table-memoCITRUS AGAINST PESTS Last year, I decided to seriously take care of my apple trees, otherwise the neighbors' branches break from the harvest, and my fruits fall wormy. I read that an infusion of citrus peel protects trees from aphids, whiteflies and other pests. All autumn and winter I collected orange and tangerine peels. I prepared the infusion as follows: 100 g of dry crushed crusts were poured into 3 liters of water and put in a dark place for five days. Then strained and bottled. Stored in a cool dark place. Before spraying, diluted 10 g of infusion, 100 g of laundry soap in 40 liters of water and mixed thoroughly. The first treatment was carried out during the period of bud break, and then twice a month during the season.
  • Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous) on Lichens on trees: to fight or not - myths and their refutationTRUDE MUSHROOM - THE ENEMY OF GARDENERS Its spores are carried by wind and insects and enter the tree bark through damage, cracks and wounds, through broken branches and places of sunburn. Inside the tree, spores germinate, form mycelium (mycelium) and begin to destroy the plant. The best way to deal with tinder fungus is prevention. To do this, I carry out timely pruning of trees in spring and autumn, remove diseased, affected, rotten, weakened branches, peel off the exfoliated bark, and clean the wounds. I don't leave stumps when cutting. In order to prevent the spread of the fungus and infection of other trees, I burn all drying branches, debris, stumps, and bark away from the site. I regularly update the whitewashing of the trunk, observe the regime of watering and fertilizing. I carry out preventive spraying of fruit trees. If I find saprophytes exclusively on a tree branch, then there is still a chance to save the tree and the garden as a whole, for this I remove the affected branch at its very base. If it is light, solid and there are no signs of decay, the tree is healthy. Darkened and loose wood on the cut is an indicator of complete infection. In the first case, I disinfect the cut site with a 3% solution of copper sulphate, and subsequently treat it with garden pitch. If the control measures did not help you, then I advise you to uproot the infected tree and burn it completely, since the spores of the fungus live for a long time.
  • M.G. Konstantinov, Dobretsovo village, Kostroma region on How to collect seeds from garden plants - cucumbers, tomatoes, peppers, cabbage and root vegetablesHOW I GET WHITE CABBAGE SEEDS I collect cabbage with stalks (so it lasts longer), I tie it to nails in the ceiling of the cellar away from each other. I leave a few heads of cabbage until spring, by which time they begin to germinate. Then I plant them in a large container with water, and then plant them in the ground. After the peduncle ripens, seeds are formed. I collect them. I dry the seeds thoroughly, store only in paper or fabric bags at room temperature in a dark place.
  • OOO "Sad" on Growing viburnum in the Moscow region - varieties, planting and careThe viburnum leaf beetle worked here. This is a beetle that develops and feeds only on viburnum, for it it is very dangerous. Treatment against the viburnum leaf beetle is recommended to be carried out in two stages: for larvae in May-June and against beetles in August-September. Spray plants with insecticides based on pyrimiphosmethyl or malathion (karbofos) against beetles and larvae and a biologic based on beneficial bacteria against larvae. We recommend taking into account the developmental features of the viburnum leaf beetle. For oviposition, females choose the tops of young central shoots, gnaw through a chain of deep numerous recesses in them, after which they lay 15-20 eggs in each. As a result, already in September, the shoots dry up. If the viburnum bush is young and not very tall, then breaking out and burning the dried shoots with oviposition will be the best protection against the pest. Carry out this procedure in the fall or early spring, before the birth of the larvae. If you destroy eggs in this way, then there will be no larvae and adult beetles, and viburnum will please | you with green leaves, snow-white flowers and useful fruits. N. ALEKSEEVA, agronomist
  • N. Mirzoyan Moscow region on Growing viburnum in the Moscow region - varieties, planting and careOur viburnum was literally all eaten by pests - nothing was left of the leaves, only veins. Who has worked here and how should we proceed?
  • OOO "Sad" on Spicy herbs in the garden - what, where and how to plantCardamom is native to the tropics. Plant it in loose nutrient soil, do not allow the earthen clod to dry out, but do not flood it either. Especially in winter, at this time, watering should be reduced. Spray or place the pot on a tray filled with expanded clay and pour water into it. It is very important to provide warmth. Already at temperatures below 18 ° cardamom begins to feel unwell. And the optimum temperature for it is 24-28 °. In the season, from mid-March to the end of October, regularly feed the plant with complex fertilizer. It is best to purchase a specialized fertilizer for tropical or ornamental plants. As you can see, caring for cardamom is easy. But to achieve flowering and fruiting is unlikely to succeed. Although anything can happen. However, cardamom leaves are fragrant. You can rub them lightly and enjoy the aroma. In addition, just being in the room, cardamom releases phytoncides that kill many microbes. So this wonderful flower is not only beautiful, but also useful.
  • N. Polezhaeva Moscow Region on Spicy herbs in the garden - what, where and how to plantI saw cardamom in a pot for sale and could not resist, I bought it. What does he like? And is it possible to get a crop at home - spicy fruits-boxes?
  • Ekaterina TULINOVA, St. Petersburg. on Fat or money tree - growing and groomingThe fat woman is resting in the cool When this crassula appeared in the collection of my daughter Natalia last year, we immediately began to study what conditions and care she needs. Gradually, the plant adapted to the new place and now feels great. Lighting prefers bright, so it stands on the south side. We reduce the temperature of the content for the winter (up to + 10-15 degrees). At this time, the fat woman has a period of rest. We water after the soil dries to a depth of 2-3 cm. We feed only during the period of active growth (from May to September) with fertilizer for cacti and other succulents - once a month. The bush is still young, so it has not been transplanted yet. It is recommended to do this every 2-3 years in the spring. BTW, it was interesting and pleasant to know that Crassulas release substances into the air that destroy viruses.
  • OOO "Sad" on Chrysanthemum propagation technologyChrysanthemum Indian winters in open ground only in warm regions. In the rest, the plant is cut off, leaving stumps of several centimeters, and placed in a pot in a cold (about + 3-8 degrees) place: an insulated balcony, a frost-free veranda, a cellar with good ventilation. The soil is kept slightly moist. They are exposed to light in late February-early March. IN THE ROOM If there is no suitable room, try to find a place for the chrysanthemum on a bright, cool (not higher than +15 degrees) window sill, away from the batteries. Clean the plant from dry stems, leaves, flowers. Water moderately, do not let the earthy coma dry out. Be prepared that in heat and with a lack of light, the plant is quickly depleted, the leaves begin to turn yellow and fall off. Therefore, it is better to cut cuttings after flowering, root them and keep them in winter at + 15-18 degrees, and in bright light
  • Raisa PARAMONOVA on Chrysanthemum propagation technologyI have an Indian chrysanthemum for the first year, so I need advice on wintering it. For the summer I planted a bush in open ground, but I was afraid to leave the plant there until spring, so I dug it out and brought it to the terrace (I cover it with a film at night). What's next?
  • Galina RYAPASOVA on Eustoma (photo) cultivation, planting and care - my adviceTime to sow eustoma Eustoma seedlings bloom in about 6-8 months (depending on the variety). Therefore, I sow the seeds in November-December. I pour drainage into a transparent container so that there is no stagnation of water, and ready-made soil for saintpaulia. I distribute the seeds evenly over the moistened surface of the substrate, without sprinkling anything, and cover with a lid. I put the container in a bright, without direct rays, warm place (+ 20-21 degrees). Periodically open for ventilation. Shoots develop slowly, remain small for a long time. After the appearance of 3-4 pairs of leaves, I plant the seedlings in separate cups, trying not to damage the thin roots.
  • OOO "Sad" on Acacia false shelter - description and methods of struggle1 way. With a cotton pad moistened with alcohol or a semi-rigid brush, wipe the leaves (on both sides) and shoots, removing visible parasites. Be careful with plants that have pubescent blades - first test the method on individual leaves. If new individuals are found, repeat the treatment. 2 way. Mix 1 tbsp. water and a little dishwashing detergent or soap and 2-3 tbsp. machine or sunflower oil. Shake to emulsify and apply to the plant, protecting the soil. After a few hours, wash it thoroughly in the shower. BTW Systemic water-soluble preparations of a new generation (Aktara, Konfidor, Mospilan, Apaches, etc.) are relatively safe for others (hazard class 3). They have a damaging effect on a wide range of pests, plants tolerate them well. The main thing is to work according to the instructions. But such means as "Aktellik", "Fu-fanon", "Karbofos" I do not recommend using in a residential area.
  • Elena KALININA, Novosibirsk region on Acacia false shelter - description and methods of struggleHow to get rid of scale insects and mealybugs without chemicals, so as not to take plants out into the cold outside?
  • Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous) on Three dangerous pests of fruit trees - codling moth, aphid and sawfly and their controlwormwood against aphids I brew 150 g of fresh wormwood leaves during flowering or 15 g of dry grass in 5 liters of boiling water. I let it brew for 15-20 minutes, filter and cool. I spray the plants affected by aphids with infusion.
  • Svetlana KONONOVICH on Ophthalmologist: cultivation and care. Varieties of the cleaner.When I first saw the bent stonecrop of the Cristatum variety, I was surprised at its unusual shape - curved shoots that resemble fabric ruffles. For the interesting structure of the stems among the people, the plant was called "cockscomb". I was assured that this is an unpretentious perennial, but I did not immediately make friends with him. The purchased delenka was planted in a semi-shady place with sandy soil among perennials. But for several years it practically did not develop. Last season, in the spring, I decided to transplant Cristatum to a sunny flower bed next to other types of stonecrops. And he seemed to come alive! Shoots began to grow and form "scallops". Components of success Stonecrops love open sunny areas and do not tolerate constantly wet ground. Grow them in light, well-drained soil. I don't feed anything and I don't water it.
  • OOO "Sad" on Caring for indoor flowers and house plants from A to Z- Gerbera can be propagated by seeds and division (in March-April). The first method allows you to get a large amount of planting material, although the offspring is heterogeneous in size, shape, color. Freshly harvested seeds germinate better. I sowed them in December and further illuminated the seedlings. They can be soaked in water before sowing, but I like to lay them out on damp filter paper or gauze. At a temperature of + 22-25 degrees, they hatch in 2-4 days. Then the seeds were distributed over the surface of the soil and sprinkled with clean, dry sand on top. The sowing substrate must be loose and fertile. For example, peat is mixed with sand and steamed to avoid diseases. I bought ready-made on a peat basis. I watered the crops, covered it with foil and shaded it on the windowsill. Further, it is important not to allow the soil to dry out. Shoots appear in 7-10 days. Young plants are easily affected by fungal diseases: overflow and high air humidity can lead to mass death of seedlings. After 2-3 weeks, when the first true leaf or a small rosette appeared, the seedlings dived. At the same time, she pinched long taproots, and the plant deepened almost to the leaves (above the ground - 0-5 cm). Gerberas have a deep root system (up to 1 cm), so appropriate containers are needed for planting. Watered with warm water, and without getting on the leaves and root neck. In the future, rarely moisturized, as there was a danger of developing diseases. At first, it is desirable to maintain a temperature of + 50-20 degrees, then lower it to + 22-15 (if there is no way to illuminate) until the day increases, - approximately until the end of March. Tatyana SERGEEVA, biologist, Belgorod.
  • Valeria Lugovskaya on Caring for indoor flowers and house plants from A to ZHOW IS IT BETTER TO PRODUCE GERBERA? What is the best way to propagate a gerbera - sow seeds or buy and share a finished plant? I love this flower very much, but I heard that growing from seeds is problematic.
  • OOO "Sad" on Chubushniki - types and varieties: photo, name and description- Mock oranges all tolerate moderate shading well, although they develop and bloom better in the open sun. For example, in the shade I like Ch. coronal Aureus with golden foliage. Against its background, flowers are not very visible, so it’s not scary that flowering will not be so plentiful. But the foliage effectively “illuminates” the shady corners of the garden, although it will not be as bright as in the sun. Of the fragrant ones, it is better to choose the Avalanche variety or the so-called small-leaved strawberry mock orange - a low bush with small flowers, abundantly flowering and with a very strong smell. For variety and beauty, you can also plant its terry form Glacier or Alabaster.
  • Nikola Lyzo on Chubushniki - types and varieties: photo, name and descriptionI planned to plant three mock orange bushes in the spring: I want to place two in the sun, and one in a shady place. Which variety is the most shade tolerant available? And a strong scent is very important to me. What varieties do you recommend?
  • OOO "Sad" on Shepherdia (photo) planting and care, the best varieties- Shepherdia silver is often propagated vegetatively - by cuttings, root offspring, layering. Seeds are also possible, but they quickly lose their germination capacity (viable for no more than two years). Freshly harvested seeds are sown before winter immediately in open ground. During spring sowing, a 2-3-month stratification will be required at 0-3 degrees. Root shoots of shepherdia are formed at a distance of 2 m from the mother plant. You can dig it out with independent roots in April-May. Or, from the end of June, cut cuttings 10 cm long, and take them from semi-woody shoots. For greater certainty, dust the lower sections with a root stimulator and land (in an inclined position) in a greenhouse. Avoid drying out the soil and direct sunlight on the rooted cuttings. Irina KULAKHMETOVA. agronomist, Gelendzhik, Krasnodar Territory
  • Elena Novitskaya, Roslavl on Shepherdia (photo) planting and care, the best varietiesCan sheferdia be propagated by seeds? Or is it easier to do this by looking for a process?
  • Oleg BUYNOVSKY, agronomist on Digging and storing dahlia tubers - how CORRECT?Keeping the tubers under control Monitor compliance with the storage of dahlia root tubers. They should be packed in boxes lined with film or paper in several layers, and sprinkled with wet sand, peat or sawdust. Storage temperature - + 4-8 degrees, relative humidity - 70%. If the tubers begin to dry out, moisten the substrate. If rot appears, clean it out, fill the wound with a burgundy solution of potassium permanganate and replace the filling material with fresh and drier one.
  • Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous) on 3 do-it-yourself cabbage dressings - gardeners tipsDO NOT SPARE WATER FOR CABBAGE In our family, cabbage is called the third bread. She always comes to the table. How many different dishes you can cook from it! How delicious is sauerkraut! By the way, only late varieties are suitable for pickling. Many summer residents are interested in how to water cabbage in August, because everyone knows that watering must be stopped a month before harvesting, otherwise the heads of cabbage will crack and will not lie for a long time. I will tell you this - look at the weather and the time of ripeness of your variety. If harvesting takes place very late - in September-October, then August is the time of the most abundant watering. Take warm water for irrigation. Due to cold watering, the forks become weak or may not tie at all. In hot and dry weather, I need 7-8 liters per plant. Do not allow a lot of pressure so that the earth is not washed out from under the roots. The stability of heads of cabbage can be increased by raking the earth to their base. So the cabbage will take on additional roots, and this, among other things, is additional nutrition. To improve the quality of cabbage and extend its shelf life, I advise you to feed it with a solution of mullein or chicken manure in August. After that, the cabbage will receive the necessary nutrients that will help it gain weight and taste.
  • Alexander Belyaev, Bryansk on Why do tomato leaf edges curl up or down?WHY DO TOMATOES LEAVES TWIST? There are several reasons. If the upper leaves of tomatoes are twisted, this indicates a lack of calcium. It is necessary to carry out foliar feeding of plants using calcium nitrate (20 g per 10 liters of water). When the plants are very hot and there is not enough moisture, the upper leaves are folded into tubules to reduce evaporation. If the tomatoes are in the greenhouse, you need timely airing and watering. With an excess of nitrogen in the soil, the plants fatten, and the leaves curl. This can be corrected by applying abundant watering and foliar feeding with potassium (1 tsp potassium sulfate per 1 liter of water). Leaf curl is caused by small black aphids that appear on stems and leaves. To destroy it, plants must be carefully sprayed with pesticides. Sometimes leaf curl causes the curl virus. The leaves begin to curl at the top, the stem does not stop growing, the leaves become yellowish or light green in color. Such a diseased plant must be removed from the site immediately so as not to infect other tomatoes.
  • Svetlana Martynova, Orel on Do-it-yourself green fertilizer (weed infusion) - questions and answersBURDOCK AGAINST PESTS I prepare an infusion from burdock to fight pests and diseases. I take 5 kg of fresh burdocks with a root per 10 liters of water, insist 3 days, filter. I spray apple trees and other fruit trees with this infusion every 10 days since mid-June. This helps in the fight against codling moth butterflies, as well as other pests.
  • B. T. Shirokiy, Irkutsk on Prevention of tomatoes from late blight is my waySALVATION FROM PHYTOFTORA For the resistance of tomatoes to late blight, I use the fertilizer "Diammophos" (sold in seed stores). During the period of tomato growth, 2 times with an interval of 20 days I carry out top dressing with this fertilizer. The disease does not touch the plant, but the number of fruits increases significantly and their quality improves.
  • Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous) on Do-it-yourself green fertilizer (weed infusion) - questions and answersINfusions for spraying tomatoes At home, we grow tomatoes exclusively for ourselves and try not to use modern pesticides. We use infusions of onions, garlic and chicken manure. Cooking like this: 100 g of garlic and 100 g of onions are passed through a meat grinder, then put in a 3-liter jar and filled with 3/4 water. We close the lid; and hold for 24-36 hours, periodically < shaking the jar. We take a bucket and put 200 g of litter there (preferably pigeon), fill it with water, leave it (for 24-36 hours, stirring occasionally. Before pouring into the sprayer, both solutions are filtered and mixed. Spray from a knapsack sprayer. every 7-10 days.
  • Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous) on Hop (photo) planting and reproductionHORSEtail AND HOP - A GREAT PAIR These herbs are always in my garden arsenal and home first aid kit. Miraculous tinctures and decoctions of them are able to save both humans and plants from diseases. Here is how I prepare the decoction. I take 250 g of chopped aerial parts of each plant, pour 5 liters of cold water, insist for 12 hours, then boil for 3-5 minutes and filter. I dilute the cooled concentrate with water 1: 5. This remedy very effectively protects plants, especially pumpkin and nightshade crops, from fungal diseases. I recommend to everyone.
  • V. V. Presnova, Protvino, Moscow Region on Seed strawberries - two good ways to growHOW TO GROW STRAWBERRY FROM BERRIES Rinse ripened berries several times. Mature seeds will settle to the bottom of the bowl, after which they need to be dried. In February - March, it can be sown in fertile soil in a box or other container. It is necessary to compact the soil, water and sow the seeds on top of the soil. Cover with cling film and refrigerate for 2-3 days. After that, put the box in a warm place. After a while, the seeds will begin to swell and germinate. After 30 days, you can dive into a spacious container. In August, plant in the garden.
  • Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous) on Does Roundup help get rid of hogweed?HOW TO FIGHT WITH COW-SHOW IN THE HOUSEHOLD PLOT? Hogweed is a dangerous plant that can cause very serious burns if its juice gets on the skin. You can deal with cow parsnip in different ways, we will describe the most effective ones. The simplest, but also the least effective, is simple mowing. It is necessary to arm yourself with protective clothing and periodically mow down the cow parsnip, preventing it from growing properly, as a result, its strength will dry out and the cow parsnip will die. At the same time, it is safest to mow with a regular one, and not with a scythe, which can scatter poisonous hogweed juice around. The second option is to combine mowing with digging or plowing the site, that is, after mowing, also rake all the plant residues with a shovel or plow, also wearing overalls, otherwise burns cannot be avoided. Here you also need to mow with an ordinary iron scythe, or use a mower attached to a tractor. Well, the third option, the most effective, is mowing, plowing and tilling the soil with a powerful herbicide of continuous action. It is not always possible to achieve a good result the first time, sometimes it is necessary to carry out several treatments. As for all the other methods that are described on the Internet, they will be of much less use.
  • Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous) on Mangold (photos) planting and care, useful properties and recipesChard is unpretentious, cold-resistant. Only it is necessary to plant it in a garden bed, illuminated by the sun all day. In partial shade, growth is retarded, and nitrates can accumulate in the leaves. Sow chard in late April - early May. Before moose, seeds are soaked in a damp cloth for 2-3 days, sown to a depth of 3-4 cm. Row spacing is 50 cm. Seeds begin to germinate at a temperature of 4-5 degrees, shoots appear in two weeks. The most favorable conditions for germination at a temperature of 18-20 degrees. Seedlings tolerate light frosts. In the second half of May, thinning is carried out, leaving 30 cm between plants. Chard is a very valuable vegetable crop. The leaves and petioles contain sugar, protein, carotene, vitamins C, B1, B2, P, PI, PP. Chard is rich in calcium, phosphorus and iron salts. The plant has a diuretic, mild laxative and analgesic effect. Highly effective in sclerosis. Eating chard juice lowers blood pressure. With a cold, chard juice mixed in half with honey helps. The leaves are used in borscht, salads, stewed, preserved for the winter. Cut them off along with the stems. And the more often you cut, the thicker they will grow.
  • Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous) on Why do apple trees and other trees bloom a second time (late summer-autumn)?In my garden, apple trees are affected by fruit rot. I spray them with iron vitriol in the fall, clean and whiten the trunks, and spray them with Bordeaux liquid in early spring, but the effect is zero. Here's my trouble. What would you advise?
  • Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous) on Princess (photo) landing and care. Varieties princesThe berry did not start. I bought a plant on the market. The seller called him a royal berry, a princess, a raspberry. It grows, but it has not yet tasted the royal berry - the fruits are not tied. Only in spring flowers delight and decorative foliage. What is the secret here? Or is it a common deception?
  • Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous) on Processing potatoes with wireworm tar - my reviewsI'm escorting the wireworm. I do this. A few days before planting potatoes, I buy fresh-frozen small fish, put it in a warm place and keep it there until it goes rotten. Now I put one fish in each hole next to the potato. And that's it - the wireworm is gone! VL ANOINTED.
  • Lyudmila on Growing rhubarb - pruning and breaking, reproduction and benefitsI want to share my experience of growing rhubarb. It should be borne in mind that harvesting begins only in the second year after planting. In the first year, the plant needs leaves to strengthen and form a strong root system. In subsequent years, a third of the leaves should be left when harvesting, since rhubarb can only form new leaves with the help of the remaining ones. During harvesting, the petioles of rhubarb leaves should only be broken off, but in no case should they be cut. For mulching rhubarb for the winter, it is good to use fallen tree leaves. I enclose the beds with a wire mesh about 30 cm high and fill it with densely packed foliage in the fall. When young leaves appear on the surface in spring, I remove the tree foliage and collect tender, juicy, light stems, which are unusually tasty.
  • Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous) on Sowing carrots in a bed with sand - my reviewsI buy several varieties of carrots, mix the contents to insure against low-quality seeds. I plant seeds with a special planter, which produces 1-2 seeds per press. You can take a small plastic bottle, make a hole in the lid, the result is the same. The less often a carrot is planted, the larger it grows. On the ridge I plant three grooves of carrots, one Stuttgarten onion to protect them from the carrot fly. When the carrots have risen, water only the aisles. If you disturb her, she grows either short or ugly: two- or three-fingered. Weed only when there are tails, and do not forget to thin out again, do not rely on the fact that you will slowly use the carrots in cooking - this is usually forgotten.
  • Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous) on Redcurrant - care after plantingRed currants in my garden take up no less space than black ones. There are plenty of reasons for that. Firstly, this is a very beautiful ornamental shrub, so I grow red currants on a trellis along the path and against the wall of the house. Secondly, it takes much less time to care for it than, for example, for black, and it gives higher yields. In addition, red currants are self-fertile - they do without pollinating varieties. You can plant just one bush - and still the harvest will be. The best time for planting red currants is autumn or early spring. I planted it, as advised in the nursery, 5-6 cm lower than it grew in the nursery, and it was spacious - 1,5-2 m from the bush so that the planted bushes, as far as pocia, were not shaded by trees and each other. Down poured 1-2 buckets of humus and on top - 1-2 shovels of garden soil. After planting, the bush was abundantly watered and mulched on top with sawdust. With such a shelter, you will have to water and weed less often.
  • Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous) on Redcurrant - care after plantingThere is always room for red currants in my garden. I want to share with you why I love red currants more than black ones. Firstly, red gives high annual yields, secondly, it is winter-hardy, and thirdly, ripe berries can hang on a bush for a long time (a whole season!) Without crumbling and remaining just as tasty. And, finally, red currant is a long-liver: it lives and bears fruit for almost 15-20 years! No, without currants, as well as without lilacs, I simply cannot imagine my “hacienda”! Caring for her is simple, her bushes are quite resistant to diseases, only currants love to be fed: therefore, I increase the dose of organic fertilizers to 6-8 kg per 1 sq. m, and I bring half the norm at the end of September, and the rest - in the spring. Pruning bushes of red currant, as well as black, I spend in early spring, at the beginning of growth. But keep in mind: in the first years after planting, pruning is almost not carried out, and in the future it is desirable to have an average of at least 10-12 fruit-bearing branches and 4-5 renewal shoots per bush. The formed bush should have up to 15-20 branches of different ages (according to my observations, one branch yields 6-8 years, sometimes more). As for watering, currants, in general, tolerate drought well, but with a lack of moisture, the berries become small. So I am not lazy and constantly make sure that my beauties do not suffer from thirst. Red currants can be added to salads, like cranberries or lingonberries. Especially this berry is necessary for those who suffer from constipation.
  • Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous) on Trees and shrubs with beautiful fruits - photo, description and nameIts flowers are inconspicuous, although numerous, but the brilliant purple and lilac berries, collected in spherical clusters, are eye-catching. It was with these clusters that the plant gained popularity, for which it received the name beautiful fruit. Guessing it was not so easy, because in our gardens it is not very well known. It comes from the tropical and subtropical forests of Asia, Australia, North and Central America. On the territory of the CIS, it is cultivated mainly on the Black Sea coast of the Caucasus, where the climate is suitable for this heat-loving plant. Bodinier's beautiful fruit (Callicarpa bodinieri) is a perennial ornamental deciduous shrub. It grows up to 1,5-3 m. In July, it blooms with lilac flowers, which are not of decorative value. But the finest hour of the plant comes in the fall - in September-October, when the fruits appear: as it ripens from the bottom up, the crown is covered with wonderful clusters that last almost until December! Leaves are also good during the period of leaf fall, which change color from matte light green to bright red or golden yellow. The beautiful fruit is planted mainly in groups, because it reproduces by cross-pollination. The place must be chosen sunny, protected from the wind. The soil likes acidic or slightly acidic, well-drained, evenly moist, humus, from light to medium. The beautiful carp is propagated mainly by cuttings, less often by seeds. By the way, it recovers well after pruning.
  • Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous) on Montbrecia care in autumnMontbrecia (Japanese gladiolus) bulbs are difficult to preserve. In the second half of September (having previously cut the stems), we dig out the bulbs with a clod of earth. We dry it well (the lump becomes like a stone), we lower it into the basement until spring. In the spring (April) we disassemble the bulbs. Too much mud, but 100 percent safety.
  • Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous) on Parsnip agricultural technology (humidity, temperature, etc.) - tips and tricks of the agricultural sciencesI sow it on the same day as carrots. I plant in rows. Two rows - pass 2 rows - pass, etc. One row of parsnips is round, the other is long. Two weeks before sowing, I soak the seeds for a day in ordinary water. I change the water 2-3 times, then I wash the seeds and wrap them in gauze, which I put in a plastic bag. I put the bag in a warm place. I periodically air the seeds and make sure that the gauze is wet. After about 10-12 days, white sprouts will appear on the seeds - this is a sign that the package should be transferred to the refrigerator. There, the seeds are hardened for about a day or two. I dig deep into the soil for parsnips, add humus, make grooves 2-3 cm deep, lay out the seeds and cover with earth. Sprouts appear in a week. Plantings must be thinned out with a distance of 5-7 cm between plants. During the summer I feed with organic fertilizers 2-3 times, water and loosen. I clean the parsnips as late as possible, store them like carrots in the cellar. I use it in soups during the winter. In the fall, when I make preparations, I add them to salads, to minced peppers.
  • Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous) on The two most dangerous diseases of apple and pear: scab and rust and the fight against themIs it possible to prune apple trees with moniliosis? How to deal with this disease?
  • Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous) on Raspberry varieties resistant to gall midgeI noticed the so-called raspberry gall on the plantings of raspberries. I used to see thickenings on raspberry trunks. I cut out the affected stems to the base and burned them, but new thickenings immediately appeared on other stems, and last fall I had to cut a lot of raspberries. But since I like the variety (Babieleto), I would not want to cut everything completely. In late autumn, the raspberries were sprayed with chemicals. Even doused everything with lime. The land before the raspberry was not planted for several years. Help me please.
  • Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous) on Sleep - how to get rid of? The benefits of sleep!It turns out that this "weed" is a valuable energy plant, rich in proteins and many other useful substances. The great Saint Seraphim of Sarov recommended the use of "snitka".